guys, help, 1972 dodge charger

[moparnation74]

I think the older gent just wants to make sure his rides have a good home and not a means to flip em.  That's the reason to finish the 72 before you get the gem.  The old guy knows once this guy experiences that sweet mopar machine in public it will change sawyer like it changed him.

[Chargerguy74]

Not sure why no one else has said this yet...  But if you're going to get a free R/T outta the deal; stop fretting, and restore the darn thing!

Even if you spend over on this project, YOU'LL HAVE A #'S MATCHING R/T CAR! Still can't see how you'd possibly go wrong there.  You even said the boss likes the car, so fix it up for whatever it costs, and keep it as a nice mild 318 your wife can drive.  

You'll basically be doing exactly what he did...  Base Charger for the wife, 2nd Gen for you.

Based on what I've read thus far, you're already deep enough in.  Stop second guessing yourself, and F***ing do it Marine!

I don't think I'd be putting too much $ into that '72 unless I had the whole deal in writing. Getting it running for a ride is one thing. Restoring it is completely different.

[F8-4life]

Yup^^
idk but the whole deal seems kind of weird and complicated. Maybe you should get the terms in writing.
Maybe you should just offer the guy some cash for the 69 and make it simple.
Tell him you only have the resources to restore one car and you want the 69.
Maybe try to help him sell the 72 and put the cash into his pocket.

[polywideblock]

check the A pillar where the door hinges bolt on  then at the corner of the windscreen where it meets the cowl , also check the "seam " that runs across the firewall  especially at the corners where it dips down   

[Beav]

As I understood it... it's a RIDE in the 72 (roadworthy,) not a complete restoration to concourse quality.

Change the fluids, flush the brakes & make sure they are in good working order.  Puts some plugs/points/etc for a tune up. Tires if they're needed.  Clean it out as well as can be expected for its condition...

As far as all that written agreement...

The op has already gotten the '72 for $400!!!

There are few of us left (perhaps VERY few,) that a "handshake" is much more binding than something scribbled & signed on a piece of paper. (I'd not insult the man with that suggestion.)

'72 for $400...  perhaps double it to get it "road worthy?"

I say sawyer is still ahead before getting his hands on the R/T.

Beav

[JB400]

I 2nd the notion on the fact that he's ahead.  Several people would love to be where he's at, even with just the 72.

[sawyer440rt]

Done

[sawyer440rt]

Done

[JB400]

A hole in the floor board isn't too big of a deal.  You might want to crawl under the car and inspect the floors though to really determine how bad it is.  It'll help you determine how much effort it will take to fix the car.  You should also check the trunk and the rear frame rails as well.  If you read up on a few threads here of others that are currently building 3rd gens, it'll give you an idea of the trouble areas.  If you have a welder, it won't take much to fix the hole, or you could just put in a piece of metal just to keep yours, or the passengers' feet from falling through the carpet.

[sawyer440rt]

Done

[XH29N0G]

You need to delete the last 6 numbers of your vin.  All the important info is in the first 7 letters and numbers.

And yes, that is the vin of a R/T

Don't know how critical this is, but I think I would follow JB400's suggestion and use the edit command on that.

The floor may depend on what state you are in and if an inspection is needed.  See what people here say.  I would lean towards going the way of having it welded in or welding in myself.  Chances are the skill will come in handy and you want it safe.

[sawyer440rt]

Done

[sawyer440rt]

k

[XH29N0G]

All I think he was suggesting was to delete the production number part of the VIN - the part after the XS29M9F.  Some people think that less scrupulous people could steal those numbers and title them.  I don't know how likely, or even possible, but thought I would pass this along.  Others will pipe in I am sure.

Please leave the other stuff. The first part tells what the car is.  I am curious about what the engine is (M would be special order).   I assume this was done.  x is charger s is special (that is the RT part I think). 29 is 2 door sports (charger) M is engine, 9 is for 69, F is where it was made, delaware.  Mine XH29N0G is a low level H car with n=383 and 70 made in G st louis.

I also know others have the full numbers up (even without ninjas).

[sawyer440rt]

k

[XH29N0G]

Thanks.  I think the third generation look very nice and it will be nice to watch as you work through yours.  Keep us posted.  And good luck also with the RT.  It sounds like an exciting time and a great friend you have made.

[sawyer440rt]

K

[polywideblock]

don't know if I'd use it,  haven't so can't say    http://www.por15.com/

[JB400]

You need to delete the last 6 numbers of your vin.  All the important info is in the first 7 letters and numbers.

And yes, that is the vin of a R/T

Don't know how critical this is, but I think I would follow JB400's suggestion and use the edit command on that.

The floor may depend on what state you are in and if an inspection is needed.  See what people here say.  I would lean towards going the way of having it welded in or welding in myself.  Chances are the skill will come in handy and you want it safe.

The last 6 numbers of the vin are like your social security number.  You don't give either one of them out.

[nakita7]

Sorry to hear it wasn't a Rallye, but still a cool car.

[Chargerguy74]

As I understood it... it's a RIDE in the 72 (roadworthy,) not a complete restoration to concourse quality.

Change the fluids, flush the brakes & make sure they are in good working order.  Puts some plugs/points/etc for a tune up. Tires if they're needed.  Clean it out as well as can be expected for its condition...

As far as all that written agreement...

The op has already gotten the '72 for $400!!!

There are few of us left (perhaps VERY few,) that a "handshake" is much more binding than something scribbled & signed on a piece of paper. (I'd not insult the man with that suggestion.)

'72 for $400...  perhaps double it to get it "road worthy?"

I say sawyer is still ahead before getting his hands on the R/T.

Beav

My post is in response to the "restore" it to get the '69 comments. I know what a hand shake means to me, but I've had many guys go back on their word. It's the world we live in. Let's be real here. I agree asking him to put this in writing would be insulting and probably end the whole thing. Like I said a ride is a ride, but restoring a car I don't really want just to get another car? Unless it's in writing, no way. But, this is all beside the point, since the owner just wants a ride.

[sawyer440rt]

K

[Pete in NH]

I think you may have come into the deal of a lifetime. I think I would keep both cars together as a way to honor the history of the cars. The rust in the floor of the 72 is not a big deal in itself, but, is a tip off to look over the frame rails and rest of the under body carefully for more rust. Since you will have two cars to deal with and the body issues that come with 40+ years old cars buying a MIG welder and learning how to use it will be a handy thing. I have a Hobart Handler 140 and I'm sure others will make suggestions.

People have different opinions on "rust converters" and treatments like POR-15. I prefer replacing rusted metal with new metal and a good epoxy primer. Coatings like POR-15 just basically cover up the rust and hopefully seal it off. However, I don't know of any really professional auto body people who use it. But, you do the best you can with what you have available to you.

There are a lot of knowledgeable people here and I think you will get some good guidance once you start to get into these cars.

[sawyer440rt]

K

[XH29N0G]

I had a few more thoughts and these might already be covered.  (1) I would take the time to figure out what you envision as bringing the 72 back to life or restoring it means, and then seeing if it aligns with the guy who sold it to you.  It might be that you are thinking more or less than he is.  My neighbor (who sold his car to my son for $1) just wanted it running and has been surprised when we have done more.  Every time he sees the car, he says it reminds him of his daughter (and then grand daughter) who were the previous owners.  He also swings by to check up on things and to give advice on what to fix - but I figure he has this right and it give us something to talk about.  (2) On that car, the person who helped us replace the floor pans used something like that POR-15 as a sealant, but after welding in new material.  He said he didn't know if it would work, but thought it might help.  I see it, and I think he did, as a stop gap measure.  (3) If you plan on driving it, I would go through it myself to make sure it was structurally and mechanically sound.  (I did this with the $1 car because I didn't want my son falling through the floor).