Installing New Fuel Line and Brake Line with Rail Connectors

[4402tuff4u]

Wondering if anyone on the board has installed new fuel lines and new brake line running from front to rear feeding the rear brakes after rail connectors were installed on a 1968 Charger R/T. The rail connectors I had installed by my body shop are 2" x 3" steel tubing. There is an approx. 1" space between the floor and the top of the rail. The problem I see is that somehow you have to maneuver this 8' long tube in that space, through a hole on the cross rail and keep in mind that this tube has all sorts of bends on it and can easily kink and also, you don't want to scratch the new paint job!!!  I kick myself for not thinking this out before giving the body guy the go ahead to install them. I should have thought about this before the rail connectors were installed. I have brand new stainless steel lines to install. My body shop guy that builds stretch limos said he always splices lines to make them to proper length and that could be an option for me. I'm not to crazy about splicing brake lines and/or fuel lines - flaring stainless steel might be a problem. Any help and ideas would be appreciated. 

What was I thinking of?!!!!

[4402tuff4u]

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have had problems properly flaring SS lines in the past so that would not be my first choice , care fully massaging the bends & feeding the lines into place is what I would try , or get a bender & start making some new lines

[lasvegas69charg]

I know this is a old thread but I am in the same situation. I welded subframe connectors without thinking about routing the fuel line. Now I have 5/16" sst fuel line and get around the subframes. I was thinking about cutting and splicing with a piece of rubber fuel line. Any ideas?

[tan top]

 what type of frame connectors have you got ?    i bent up copper 3/8" & 1/4" lines  as close to factory as possible  , 
for that very reason , was not sure the factory lines would  be able to fit round the frame connectors &  torque boxes ,
but they did !!
still not got OEM type lines on yet ,  the jury is still out on fitting a electric fuel  pump again 

[BrianShaughnessy]

The uscartool ones I got in Sinnamon have slots cut up front...   I guess I'll find out how difficult this job is when I get around to installing the lines later on.

http://store.uscartool.com/66-70-B-Body-Frame-Connectors_p_13.html

It wasn't really a problem with the MP connectors in Black Betty.

[bill440rt]

It wasn't really a problem with the MP connectors in Black Betty.

I didn't have a problem with mine, either. 

[lasvegas69charg]

the subframes  are made by auto rust restoration. Basically its 2x2 tubing. I will take a pic today and post.

[BrianShaughnessy]

the subframes  are made by auto rust restoration. Basically its 2x2 tubing. I will take a pic today and post.

I know it can be done...  just don't know exactly how.    This is a late friend's 68 gtx around '07.

[lasvegas69charg]

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.  I may have to go around the bottom of the subframe connector.

[BrianShaughnessy]

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.  I may have to go around the bottom of the subframe connector.

Kinda looks like the front of the SFC was mounted a bit high.        I think they were supposed to be flush with the bottom of the T-bar crossmember.

[lasvegas69charg]

yeah I think your right. If they would of flush mounted I would of been ok. Do you think I can just go around the bottom of the sfc?

[tan top]

 yes maybe  , but  lot of tight bends to put in the fuel line  

just for referance to what i mentioned in my above post , this is the tempory lines i have (  been on there 10 years, well the 3/8 " one has   )  

[lasvegas69charg]

what I ended up doing was drilling another hole above the existing, cutting the fuel 4" past where it goes thru the crossmember to make it easier going thru the hole and reconnecting with a piece of fuel line. I didn't want to cut it but really didn't have any other option. 

[HeavyFuel]

The uscartool ones I got in Sinnamon have slots cut up front...   I guess I'll find out how difficult this job is when I get around to installing the lines later on.

http://store.uscartool.com/66-70-B-Body-Frame-Connectors_p_13.html

It wasn't really a problem with the MP connectors in Black Betty.

I have the US Cartools subs, and put in the new lines a while back.  

The brake line was OK to rework the bends and get it wrigled through.  They were new and the metal is soft.

The fuel lines had to be cut to get them in, and I'll end up flaring them and using rubber hose to splice.  The original metal line is just too hard to work through those slots.