repop vs incorrectly dated NOS

[FJ5WING]

Which would everyone consider to be a "better" option for a high level restoration. incorrectly dated NOS parts or reproduction parts.

Curious on which direction to go on my project.

Thanks everyone!

[Moparpoolman]

I think the type of part and the cost would make the difference for what you're asking.  If the price is close to or "reasonably" higher, I'd go with the NOS vs. Repro.

[Aero426]

Can you give an example of the particular part application you are asking about?   

[FJ5WING]

Id rather not be specific but its a very visible area of the car. It will be noticed that the dates are incorrect, the repopos are nice but also clearly repops.

[Aero426]

Well, as you already know, there's really only one "right".     If it can be detected as a reproduction, in general, I would say the OEM replacement part would be a better choice.   

[GOTWING]

OEM 

[Ghoste]

And if you are going for the higher level judged shows then the answer becomes neither.  If you want to win the bestest marbles in the playground you'll have to find the perfect part.

[FJ5WING]

I guess by high level I meant good, I don't have the resources to go OE Gold.   I sorta figured the NOS parts were the better choice just wanted confirmation on the lesser of two wrongs.

[ksquared]

Which would everyone consider to be a "better" option for a high level restoration. incorrectly dated NOS parts or reproduction parts.

Curious on which direction to go on my project.

Thanks everyone!

If you have to ask, that means you already know!!    And in reality, it has to be what each person values, not a judge at a show.

A true story, about old Chevies, not Aero Cars.  Probably 20 years or so ago, a guy was building an absolutely stunning 1956 Chevy Convertible.  Everything was NOS, he would have filled the tires with 1956 air if he could have.  So at a show, his car is being judged, and he gets a point or two deduction for his grille, the judges said there was some pitting on the underside of one of the slats.  The 1956 grille is very complex, and a nightmare to restore, but he got an NOS grille and had it redone with show chrome.  To me it was spectacular.  Another '56 being judged had a "perfect" grille, no point deductions,  but it was a repro one he bought and put on.  So which one was better??  To me, there is no comparison.

[nascarxx29]

In some cases the repo parts devalue originals .I find the superbird etc useage 956 rads around cheap.But nowbody pays those high prices .They rather have the glen ray radiator date coded right on detail .And its 1300 .bucks. And same goes for so much more repo stuff vs original repo over and again 69 70 b b body 4 speed top plate repo 600.00
.Not quite like a mustang market of parts but if you look theres a lot more for mopar aftermarket than there ever has been
 

[FJ5WING]

Yes Ksquared, I was pretty sure but wanted confirmation. Honestly to me they are both substitutes but my thoughts don't always flow with everyone else's, That's why I asked.

[Mopar John]

To me incorrectly dated NOS is always better than reproduction because it's still a factory part.
If possible I would go with parts that pre date the car. Some later parts become replacement
one part fits all and don't look right also.
MJ

[Ghoste]

If you are just going for nice and not the oem gold then I guess it comes down to condition, price and quality and all threee factors have to be compared.

[odcics2]

I have a few parts that are NOS and timed right for my car.  I used all vintage sheet metal pieces, where required.  No repop stuff.  Nuts, bolts, clamps are all vintage - clean used.    A clean used part is better than a repop, IMO.     

[nascarxx29]

Speaking of hardware a friend hemi fred might have sent you vintage hardware.Hope to see the #88 completed

[odcics2]

Speaking of hardware a friend hemi fred might have sent you vintage hardware.Hope to see the #88 completed

Yes, I bought a nice sized bag of misc. Nyloc nuts from Fred.  My car has those all over the place...   

[gtx6970]

A- define 'High Level' ?

If your not going after OE gold, but plan to have the car go thru the field judging line at the Nats as an example. Where they look for date codes first ,, If they can tell its a repop versus OE then you MIGHT get dinged on a point ( doubt it )
IMO use the repop,,IF its a quality repop....  Just as an example, window sweeps. There is a good one ,,,and there is a junk one.
Another example are muflers. NOS and date code correct are stupidly insane  money.
NOS but incorrect dated are just insane money. And even though there still NOS, they're still wrong because of the date. So to me the date code takes precidence as long as its a quality product
But in the end  Only you can decide what you want in the finished product . But ask yourself,,,are you going to drive it ?



Many years ago I was looking for a trunk mldg for my 1970 Challenger ( one year only part )  I looked for nearly 2 years. Before I came across one. And it was dead mint ,,,but was also  $500 . I also needed a hood mldg .  I ended up buying a $75 repop. And put it on with  my NOS RTSE rear decklid/tail light applique and my NOS headlight doors. And 99% of the people could never tell which was nos and which was repop  once installed.
My reasoning was if I scratched the NOS I would cry,,if I scratched the repop,,,I'll just order another one and still be money ahead 

[FJ5WING]

Good points Bill

I started out OE Gold but ran out of money and now its going to be a hybrid which will occasionally be driven. By high level I mean as few repop parts as possible mostly NOS and restored parts. But like I said Im not complete but I am done!
I have also noticed there are several parts people will never know whether its repopped or NOS. I have a hard time with the parts in my hand.

[odcics2]

Agreed- only the owner of the car can decide what level of authenticity they are happy with and can live with.

In the end, it's either correct, or it's not!     Simple.   

[r4daytona]

I think two of the factors is the car and your intent. If it was a hemi Daytona which has most of it's "correct numbers" then it would probably be worth hunting down the correct date coded original parts. If it was a more common 69 RR that had sheet metal replaced and non matching motor, then you have to ask yourself is this car worth all the effort and cash. My car is a non matching Daytona that did have a bunch of sheetmetal replaced.  My budget wasn't huge so I opted for a really nice resto using a combination of original and repop. When I did needed to find something, I did try and find correctly dated parts.  Currently, when the budget allows, if a part that's more correct for my car comes along and I want it, I'll buy it.  But at least I can enjoy the car now instead of waiting until I had all the correct parts and then started to build the car. 

For example, my side window glass is original, not perfect and not from my car but it has with the correct size logo which I knew would be visible at shows.  The front windshield is a repop.  Lets face it, where are you going to find a scratch free original windshield and if you did, imagine what it would cost.  Mine is from AMD, fit great, looks great but the logo is a bit big if I remember right. I certainly wasn't going to wait to drive my car until I had a perfectly dated nos  windshield.   

[odcics2]

Found mine for a hundred bucks. It's non tinted, too.
Drove a few hours to get it... Well worth it!   

[BROCK]

I realize that this is the Aero Section & as such, I am only an admirer.  I do have a rare car that I collect date coded
parts for.  To me, it just seems asinine to buy original (especially NOS) parts with the wrong date code.  I won't be
overbidding the guy that actually needs that code on account of I'm just settling until I can do better.  All those that
would should sell their MoPar & buy a Porshe.  I do realize, however that we are all just trying to get by with whatever
we can:  But, in this section everyone knows about dang near all the cars right down to the build date & help is through
the roof!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Just tell em what you need for whichever VIN or build date & go with that response

[gtx6970]

All depends on the intention and how the car is going to be used.

Aboot 10 years ago a good friend of mine was finishing up his 1968 Coronet RT convertible. When Ron Adir shows up with an NOS correct and date coded  windshield for the car. Buddy of mine took it in on trade for a bunch of other NOS parts he was selling. He felt he traded somewhere in the  $800-900 worth of parts to get it ( at retail for the times )

Once the car was running and driving , the 1st summer he had it out . The glass got a rock chip in it. Its a very small chip ,but a chip none the less.
He schrugged it off and said oh well. I built the car to drive and a driver it is . Although it is VERY nice driver

[Ghoste]

Thats one of the things I really like about my RT, its a true XS car and numbers matching but as a sales bank car its nothing special in the "look at my codes" arena.  For me its the perfect blend of desirability and driver status.

[RJS]

I think two of the factors is the car and your intent. If it was a hemi Daytona which has most of it's "correct numbers" then it would probably be worth hunting down the correct date coded original parts. If it was a more common 69 RR that had sheet metal replaced and non matching motor, then you have to ask yourself is this car worth all the effort and cash. My car is a non matching Daytona that did have a bunch of sheetmetal replaced.  My budget wasn't huge so I opted for a really nice resto using a combination of original and repop. When I did needed to find something, I did try and find correctly dated parts.  Currently, when the budget allows, if a part that's more correct for my car comes along and I want it, I'll buy it.  But at least I can enjoy the car now instead of waiting until I had all the correct parts and then started to build the car. 

For example, my side window glass is original, not perfect and not from my car but it has with the correct size logo which I knew would be visible at shows.  The front windshield is a repop.  Lets face it, where are you going to find a scratch free original windshield and if you did, imagine what it would cost.  Mine is from AMD, fit great, looks great but the logo is a bit big if I remember right. I certainly wasn't going to wait to drive my car until I had a perfectly dated nos  windshield.   

In your case you should have gotten a Windshield from ECS not AMD  ECS can stamp it correctly.
Ron