Interesting read on brake fluid found.

[b5blue]

   I'm getting ready for some brake fixing/mods. Searching "Silicone Brake Fluid" I came across this detailed article at Moss Motors that explained the differences and how/why to proceed. Moss is fairly famous for older British autos but the science/reasoning applies to any car.
   I will be sticking with DOT 3-4 fluid and also changing the fluid much more often after reading this. 

  http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Brake_Fluid/page1.html

[A383Wing]

never been a fan of Dot 5 fluid since it came out

[Hard Charger]

    I will be sticking with DOT 3-4 fluid and also changing the fluid much more often after reading this. 

  http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Brake_Fluid/page1.html
[/quote]

I did not take that decision away from reading the article.

I have never changed my brake fluid and driven more than a million miles w/o a problem. (over the years)

[A383Wing]

yer riding the danger train then. Do a water test and you will find it's failed...and yer master cylinder and wheel cylinders are probably full of crud

[myk]

   I will be sticking with DOT 3-4 fluid and also changing the fluid much more often after reading this.  

 http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Brake_Fluid/page1.html

I did not take that decision away from reading the article.

I have never changed my brake fluid and driven more than a million miles w/o a problem. (over the years)
[/quote]
??!

You can do the same with motor oil and your engine.  Doesn't mean it's a good idea...

[b5blue]

  I have both vacuum hand pump and compressed air driven bleeders so 1/2 hour and 5.00 spent every year isn't an issue for me. Florida's humidity is brutal and traffic around here can get insane. (The reason I'm upgrading to 11.75 disk brakes.)
  For many years any used cars I bought got a full brake tear down and inspection so I'm familiar with finding hidden issues waiting to grow into failure. 

[myk]

Eh, it's typical really.  Many car guys will obsess and spend thousands on their engines, dyno numbers, paint jobs, etc, but then completely ignore critical systems like brakes and electrics...

[b5blue]

  Funny you mention electrical. I just overhauled electrics completely with new Year One (M&H) harnesses, new OER brand ALT gauge that's rated @ 60amp, 8GA. Fleet Upgrade parallel wire with a 60amp inline fuse near the Alt., new + battery cable set and reworked the column ignition switch connectors to heavy duty 50amp rated connections. This all augments my 120amp Denso Alt. upgrade that puts out a cool 50-60amp at idle. I refaced the cluster gauges, cleaned, prepped all components, installed all new dash bulbs and a solid state 5 volt gauge power feed. After cleaning any oxidation off reused small harnesses with a mix of salt and vinegar, flushing well and treating with Caig Labs DeOxIt D-100 all connections, bulbs, sockets and things like the new fuse block were coated with Caig Labs Shield S-100 while new to protect. (With a new Pioneer 4X50watt Super Tuner custom mounted into a repop radio plate with 4 new 6.5 inch speakers.) So we are on the same page. I'd put off this brake swap for many years but figured after all that time and money spent better just keep going and get all running gear 100% before doing the interior. (And adding new A/C-Heat system.)

[Dmichels]

Old brake fluid soaks up water. Water boils at 212 not hard to reach those temperatures with regular driving. Brake fade is a sickening feeling because it comes on when you are mashing the brakes the hardest. Take an hour and change your fluid.
Dave

[b5blue]

The biggest point I took from reading is the absorbed water can still cause rust and crud buildup inside the hydraulics faster then I assumed along with the boil issue.    Having dealt with this same issue for fuel with ethanol in very humid climates I've switched and paying more for non-ethanol 93 octane gladly now.   

[Hard Charger]

 ]

I did not take that decision away from reading the article.

I have never changed my brake fluid and driven more than a million miles w/o a problem. (over the years)
[/quote]
??!

You can do the same with motor oil and your engine.  Doesn't mean it's a good idea...


[/quote] Myk

that was not the point. the point was the article and what was being said.

I don't agree with your analogy about the engine oil also.

[b5blue]

Oh that's fine with me...it's up to you.  Honestly I was under the impression to bleed out when changing pads or shoes.....not every 12 months.   

[c00nhunterjoe]

Didnt bother to read the article, but i have always run dot 4 and changed fluid every 2 years. Its amazing how much moisture builds up in it and you can feel the difference even after 2 years.

[tan top]

 

before I even read the link ,  was going to say , stick with DOT 4  & change every year or two

[Hoser2455]

On a fresh restoration, convert your brake fluid over to the DOT 5.  It has a extremely high boiling point, but more important if you have a leak on your brake system, it does not eat paint.  Some people don't know they have a small leak, and by the time you find it, it's to late, your paint is gone.  The DOT 5 is a little more expensive, but well worth it.