Is this 426 Hemi fixable?

[Edelbroke]

This is a 68' 426 Hemi block
I'm trying to see what i'm in for if I decide to get this motor. The chunk of block is gone. I do have a junk 68' 383 engine to cut a piece out of for the repair.
I wasn't going to tackle the welding myself but just wondering if anybody's fixed worse? Thanks

[Dmichels]

I assume it threw a rod. The whole block should be checked to make sure nothing else is cracked or out of whack. Yes it could be welded but welding cast-iron correctly is not easy. You are going to spend a thousands of dollars building this motor do you want to use a compromised block?. Is the motor numbers matching to the car? That is the only reason I could see saving it

[Edelbroke]

Yes it threw a rod. Not a numbers matching situation. Just trying to assemble a complete motor for street use as cheap as I can.

[Dmichels]

You are going to spend many thousands of dollars even on a budget build. Bearings valves valve jobs pistons rings etc. all cost money. The whole block need to be checked for other defects and cracks before welding. There could be hidden problems. Properly welding cast iron is not easy. It has a tendency to crack again. I am sure some professional welders can chime in 

[ws23rt]

I have a hemi block that had a window welded up and run many miles after.  However in my case the window didn't extend into the pan rail.
Your block is fixable but is not a back yard weld job.
If it were not a hemi block it would be scrap for sure but it's not far from it considering the cost of repair and all the machining that goes with it. Get an estimate from a good block welder and a machine shop. I think you will find buying a new block to be the better deal with peace of mind worthwhile.
A patch from a donated block would likely be more trouble than it's worth for the welder fixing this.
I'm a welder as part of my trade and have fixed many odd things like this. I tend to look at it as a challenge but that doesn't mean it's practical.
IMO it's not a worth while task to save it.

[Charger-Bodie]

Yep. I say fix it too. It's kinda cool if you think about it.

[cdr]

Chris does block repair

https://www.facebook.com/hilyardperformance.racing

[Challenger340]

Yep, it is repairable(as long as no cracks going elsewhere up into water jackets etc.)

Seen worse.
383 donor should be fine.
Ain't going to be cheap though.

[gtx6970]

I know of a lot worse thats been fixed . by comparison thats an easy one

[moparnation74]

I would repair it as well.

[Dmichels]

It certainly is fixable but after he is done paying the repair bill how far off would he be off if he found a good used block? I have tried the "piece it together and fix it as I go" approach on other projects it usually results in paying more then I would have if I just ponied up the money and bought better. Now if he was a great welder and had is own shop where he could check and fix the block himself go for it.

Dave

[Edelbroke]

I found a place more local to the seller than to me -RJS Machine & Welding Co. in Chapin, IL
They said, "No problem, we do that type repair all the time" And the price is pretty reasonable.
I'm going to keep looking for someone closer to me in central WI. 

[ACUDANUT]

Fix it, it's money in the bank.

[ws23rt]

I'm a bit surprised at the consensus here that it's worth fixing.  But when I looked at the cost of a new block at around $2900. It looks like it's worth while to fix it.
Would be interesting to know the bottom line cost of the repair and the align honing/boring/center line decking etc. needed to make it as ready as a new one.
The only other factor is how one feels about a repaired vs new block.  In my world not a problem but some folks are more OCD than I am and the value of this sort of thing could show up as an issue down the line.

[A383Wing]

I found a place more local to the seller than to me -RJS Machine & Welding Co. in Chapin, IL
They said, "No problem, we do that type repair all the time" And the price is pretty reasonable.

just curious as to what kind of $$$ is reasonable....

[tan top]

 what the other guys say    ,  deffo fixable  ,    I would be more worried about if there are  cracks else where , lot of them cant be fixed .

 has the block been magnafluxed ?

[Edelbroke]

I'm a bit surprised at the consensus here that it's worth fixing.  But when I looked at the cost of a new block at around $2900. It looks like it's worth while to fix it.
Would be interesting to know the bottom line cost of the repair and the align honing/boring/center line decking etc. needed to make it as ready as a new one.
The only other factor is how one feels about a repaired vs new block.  In my world not a problem but some folks are more OCD than I am and the value of this sort of thing could show up as an issue down the line.

The shop I got the quote from above said $500-$800. And the repair wouldn't be noticeable (externally) I'm sure more than once someone unknowingly bought an engine with a major repair like this done if it can be done so you cant tell its repaired. Makes you think about those six figure numbers matching Hemi cars. Most people that bought that type of car brand new didn't just use it to go to church on Sunday. This particular block has some good things going for it. No sleeves, .40 over bore, doesn't appear to have been decked.
I haven't really looked but who sells new 426 blocks for $2900?

[ws23rt]

I'm a bit surprised at the consensus here that it's worth fixing.  But when I looked at the cost of a new block at around $2900. It looks like it's worth while to fix it.
Would be interesting to know the bottom line cost of the repair and the align honing/boring/center line decking etc. needed to make it as ready as a new one.
The only other factor is how one feels about a repaired vs new block.  In my world not a problem but some folks are more OCD than I am and the value of this sort of thing could show up as an issue down the line.

The shop I got the quote from above said $500-$800. And the repair wouldn't be noticeable (externally) I'm sure more than once someone unknowingly bought an engine with a major repair like this done if it can be done so you cant tell its repaired. Makes you think about those six figure numbers matching Hemi cars. Most people that bought that type of car brand new didn't just use it to go to church on Sunday. This particular block has some good things going for it. No sleeves, .40 over bore, doesn't appear to have been decked.
I haven't really looked but who sells new 426 blocks for $2900?

To say the repair wouldn't be noticeable (externally). Is a bit of a push. It would take a lot of careful hand work to hide a repair like that. ($$).  The cast surface is what it is.  And so what--that part of the block can only be seen with difficulty. However if such a costly task were to be attempted it could only be for one reason.--to deceive .--

I also was thinking about those high point count cars and what discount a repair like this could cost.--- Others could help with this.---
And as Tan Top mentioned their could very well be other related issues related to the trauma this engine felt.  For instance internal water jacket cracks.
The whole picture would include a look at all of these potential issues.
https://jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_blocks.htm

[Edelbroke]

And so what--that part of the block can only be seen with difficulty. However if such a costly task were to be attempted it could only be for one reason.--to deceive .

Deceive? That's like saying don't sand the bondo ... It's going in a 68 Charger I paid $1k for and I will be buried in the car when I die.
That solves that

[Challenger340]

I've done some pretty extensive repairs in the past,  that makes this thread's HEMI look like a minor "Boo-Boo" in comparison !


I've repaired HEMI blocks by cutting and transplanting the whole damn back of the Block(Bell Housing Area) off a donor 440 Block, then mating it back onto the HEMI Block.
Yep ! Welded right through the #5 Main and Rear Seal Area too boot !

What a fawking nightmare though !
Had that thing on and off the Dyno 4 fawking times, dis-assemble and re-assembled trying to get the rear main to seal afterwards, which we eventually were successful.
And THAT was even after re-Align Boring and Line Hone Machining the #5 Cap/Back end of the Block to line everything up again during rebuild !

Being a restoration and numbers matching..... externally for appearances, we filled the weld grooves after grinding, with Titanium Putty mixed with Cast Iron dust, then "textured" the surface to match the rest of the cast iron surface by "patting" it with 60 grit sand paper by hand.
When done, nobody could tell..... and a magnet stuck just fine to the cast iron dust impregnated Titanium putty.
No deception by me.....
I write EVERYTHING down in BOLD LETTERS ON THE WORK ORDER, EXACTLY WHAT WE HAD DONE.

The thing ran like a champ when done, and believe me we beat it pretty hard on the Dyno afterward...... no issues or leaks !
Nonetheless,
I will never undertake anything like that again..... because once you say "OK" you are committed, and waaaay too much work no matter the price ! 

[Edelbroke]

I ended up buying it. Came with a lot of parts. Not sure what will all work together yet. Don't think i'll need the nitrous...

[A383Wing]

pretty sure we know how the hole got there now

[Edelbroke]

Actually this intake/carbs and nitrous was never run on the engine. It was among the pieces collected to build a whole motor.

[6bblgt]

I agree it's fixable!

.....but - out of curiosity - What's stamped on the bottom pad & the partial VIN on the block?

[Edelbroke]

I agree it's fixable!

.....but - out of curiosity - What's stamped on the bottom pad & the partial VIN on the block?

For bottom pad do you mean just to the right of the lower water pump outlet? I don't think there's a vin on the block