hi am alternator

[cowboy4x4n]

Guys,

I'd like to upgrade my stock alt to one for hi amp to put in an amp and.sub.  What would u guys recommend and what upgrade is needed. Is the wire from alt to battery needing a bigger gauge.  My wiring is factory.

Thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

depending on... if you want stock look or not... for a while read this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

[cowboy4x4n]

i would like a stock look but if not that's ok . just want something stronger to keep up with an amp and subwoofer.  im new to mopar I could wire a chevy all day long . is there something you recommend I do if I put a bigger amp alt in.

[John_Kunkel]

As discussed many times, it's not all about high amp output but the rpm that the output comes in at. IOW, 100 amps isn't much good if you have to rev the engine 4000 rpm to get it, high amps at low rpm is what you want.

I'm considering getting this one in the near future:

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm

And, yes, you should upgrade the wiring by completely eliminating the ammeter or running a parallel large gauge wire that bypasses the ammeter.

[1974dodgecharger]

works like a champ on my end I have the 180 idle/320 max output and works great with 1k watt stereo, 3 fans running, all headlights on, etc...

[fy469rtse]

Another option , I got mine from summit,
Power master, has very close looks to the original bird cage, single wire or two , if used on a 68 or earlier, 1 field is used and the other is grounded on a 68 stock no modifications
Charges at idle unlike the factory ones, one upgrade needed is modern electronic voltage regulator is needed, I went with a factory looking one ,
So far so good  and fools Chrysler guys that look under the hood

[Nacho-RT74]

Once again, no need bypass the ammeter with high output alts... The juice the alternator gives is BEFORE the ammeter. Juice going to batt is what goes throght ammeter IF discharged ( or devices sourced from batt side, which is incorrect on ammeter equipped cars ).

Another stance for juice going through ammeter is with engine off and sourcing anything on car.

And of course, when alt is not enough... Tipical culprit for burn spots ( aside the main alt wire through bulkhead )

[redmist]

I am running a denso 120 Amp alternator from a John Deere tractor on my car.

[JR]

I don't have anything helpful I can ad, but every time I see this thread title I read it as

"Hi I'm Alternator".

[garner7555]

I am running a denso 120 Amp alternator from a John Deere tractor on my car.

Never thought about that,  diesel tractors turn low RPMs (redline around 2500-3000 on most) so their alternators would be designed with that in mind.  I might not use a tractor alt. but thats good info to have.   

[redmist]

I am running a denso 120 Amp alternator from a John Deere tractor on my car.

Never thought about that,  diesel tractors turn low RPMs (redline around 2500-3000 on most) so their alternators would be designed with that in mind.  I might not use a tractor alt. but thats good info to have.   

Should work great, I have yet to fire the car with it, but it's no different than the other Denso alternators, it's just larger in depth. Takes the same plug and everything. I found mine on Amazon new for $99.

Here is a link to the one like I found on Amazon.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/12066n---alternator-denso-type.aspx

[PlainfieldCharger]

Another option , I got mine from summit,
Power master, has very close looks to the original bird cage, single wire or two , if used on a 68 or earlier, 1 field is used and the other is grounded on a 68 stock no modifications
Charges at idle unlike the factory ones, one upgrade needed is modern electronic voltage regulator is needed, I went with a factory looking one ,
So far so good  and fools Chrysler guys that look under the hood

I have this set up also but got the 2 field wire upgrade from M&H. With the 75 amp and dual field I have no issues at all and looks good for a close to stock build...

[cowboy4x4n]

Sorry guys I know it's been discussed tons. I'm new to mopar stuff.  Converted Chevy guy. I know the ammeter wires were disconnected and tied together bypassing the gauge. Since this is done from what I am reading here is I'm good to go by adding a little higher amps.  My goal is to get these amps at.lower rpm.  I appreciate the alt suggestions.   If there's something else needed for the wiring let me know. 

Thanks again

[HPP]

Its not just the amp gauge its self, but also the bulkhead where all this amperage passes through the firewall.  Both are susceptible to meltdown. Here is a good read about it. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[myk]

Whatever you do, don't just bolt on a higher amp alternator on your stock, almost 50 year old wiring.  Perform the aforementioned modifications to prevent any mishaps.

My opinion, like I tell everyone else with a car this old, is to rewire the entire car and then go from there.  That's not as fun as installing a thumping, boob jiggling, killer stereo, but from a safety, reliability and performance standpoint that's the first step anyone should take...

[cowboy4x4n]

Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it

[mopar0166]

Best thing I did was get a power master and switched to a 1 wire system. 

[ACUDANUT]

I don't have anything helpful I can ad, but every time I see this thread title I read it as

"Hi I'm Alternator".

That's Funny as hell.  He must not be English.  I also noticed his location is a BIG SECRET, and not listed. ? WTF

[cowboy4x4n]

Ill look into that power master alternator thanks