WHAT IS THE EXACT LENGTH OF DAYTONA NOSE MOUNTING C-CHANNEL

[daytonalo]

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME THE PROPER LENGTH OF C-CHANNEL OR [CRASH BAR ] . HOW ABOUT A PICTURE , PLEASE! I WANT TO HANG THE NOSE THIS WEEKEND     IS THERE THREE BOLTS THAT HOLD BOLT THE Z-BRACKETS TO CRASH BAR ?

[hemigeno]

Larry,

Is this the part (the one marked with the yellow arrow) that you're looking to get some more details on?

[daytonalo]

YES , THATS IT , THANK YOU FOR GOING OUT OF YOUR WAY !

[hemigeno]

Hey, no problem - I took a couple of other pictures so you could see it even better...

Plus, the overall length of the channel is 20"

[hemigeno]

This is still taken from inside the nosecone, just pointing back at the seal that separates this area from the fenderwell

[hemigeno]

One more, from inside the fenderwell, pointing at the same seal the last picture showed from inside the nosecone

[daytonalo]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH , I HOPE I CAN HELP YOU SOMEDAY !

[hemigeno]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH , I HOPE I CAN HELP YOU SOMEDAY !

That's what the forum is for - trying to help each other out.  Glad you could make some use of this humongous paperweight I have shoved in the back of the shop here!!   

[daytonalo]

HOW MANY BOLTS ARE USED FOR Z-BRACKET TO CRASH BAR . FROM THE PIX I ONLY SEE FOUR THAT ARE IN FRONT OF DEPRESSION ON Z-BRACKET . ARE THERE TWO MORE ?

[daytonalo]

THE CRASH BAR IS 4 INCH BY WHAT . IS THE CHANNEL 4 INCH BY 1.5

[hemigeno]

THE CRASH BAR IS 4 INCH BY WHAT . IS THE CHANNEL 4 INCH BY 1.5

The channel is 3-3/4" wide, and it's a complex little sucker.  The top leg is about 7/8" deep, but there is an intermediate rolled bump-out that runs the length of the channel that juts out about 1/8".  That is to clear a corresponding bump-out on the Z-Brackets, and you should be able to see that in the pictures.  The bottom leg of the channel is 1-1/2".  The last picture I posted I think shows the profile of the bracket.

There are six bolts that hold the Z-Brackets to the channel.  Four of them also hold a section of seal on the opposite side of the Z-Bracket.  The two that do not also hold down that seal can be identified because they are the bolt heads that have depressions on their head/top.

Confused yet?

[hemigeno]

Hopefully this will help you figure out the bolts:

The bolts marked with the yellow arrow are the same bolt, just from two different perspectives:

[daytonalo]

THAT WAS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED, WERE ON THE SAME PAGE , THANK YOU , LARRY

[nascarxx29]

Im not sure but I think I have a template for that channel bracket.The other piece thats goes across.I dont have a pattern for it.Thanks Hemi Geno for showing Larry AKA daytonalo the way

[hotrod98]

Is the c-channel stepped lengthwise because of the shape of the frame rail or the z brace? I've noticed some repros that weren't stepped.

[daytonalo]

HEY DAVE, ON THAT CHANNEL THAT GOES ACROSS THE C-CHANNEL , DOES THE FRONT OF THE VALENCE BOLT TO THAT AND NOT THE NOSE ?

[hemigeno]

Is the c-channel stepped lengthwise because of the shape of the frame rail or the z brace? I've noticed some repros that weren't stepped.

It's stepped because of the Z-Bracket.  You can see the corresponding step in the Z-Bracket directly in front of the channel in the last picture I posted.

[daytonalo]

OK , BUT ISNT THERE A ANGLE THAT GOES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER AND THE VALENCE BOLTS TO IT ?

[nascarxx29]

I think that the piece your talking about.Goes to both side of the 2 straight channels.And provides the lower valance something to tie to?

[dayclona]

OK , BUT ISNT THERE A ANGLE THAT GOES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER AND THE VALENCE BOLTS TO IT ?

   Larry,
     The cross brace that ties the 2 C channels together, is a stepped peice, that bolts onto the bottom forward section of the C frames with 2 bolts per side, the stepped flange section in the center is stepped down, to meet the valance, and nosecone flange, all 3 pcs are thus bolted together increasing the strengh of the nosecone's belly, if your installing your cone,..........don't forget the fender to nose seals,............there's also 2   16"  x 1"x  1" foam strips that seal the gap between the valance/ cone flange and the ends of the fender to cone seals, although most people don't have/ see these on their original car , because they usally blew out on the first serious hi speed run!.........Larry veiw my website for some clear pics to answer your questions,.............................what are you using for fender to cone seals?...................if your making your own fine!,.....................if you purchased Year One, Dale's Cuda shop,.............their the same!............they give your nose the look of having a "turtle neck", or an inflated tire tube, ...........horrible!,............ask John A. @ F6DAYTONA,........( DC.com member),........he did his nose  seals several times, with original used, Year ONE, Dales's stuff,.............all I'll say is he ended up with DAYCLONA's seals on his car,............and John is very picky on what goes on/ in his cars..................I'm not trying to sell you anything here , .................FYI,...........I currently have 3 sets..........of 4 pc. noseseal sets in stock, if that helps you


Larry,.........looking at your pics, .............you could get by on the C frames using standard 4" x 1" iron channel, the original channels are .100 thick,..........or just shy 1/8" thick,..............if you study some pics on my site you'll see that some questions are answered for you, just study some assorted pics,....................................................


MIKE G./ DAYCLONA

[nascarxx29]

I had used those dales nose seal on 2 or 3 cars with same results They were like a bottom of a garage door rubber.They had a inflated intertube appearance were thin and cracked .And never stayed in.The ones from Mike G my friend got on his F6 daytona are the best so far .John is happy with them

[dayclona]

Is the c-channel stepped lengthwise because of the shape of the frame rail or the z brace? I've noticed some repros that weren't stepped.

   


   Larry,......aka HR98

The C frames that you saw,...........may or may not have been repros,.....although I do manufacturer "smooth" C frames with no step, to fit the Z bars with no lower stiffener edge,.................so did the "factory",..........early to mid 70's,........their was a vendor change in supplying nose bulkheads,( Z-bars),..............they were now listed in supplements as " crash bars", as they were intended to be a "crash" replacement part,...........these bars made in USA, lacked the "popcicle stick" stiffner depression, the lower raised strenghing rib, .....basicaly an intirely smooth surface,...................the "crash replacment"C frames also incorporated changes to fit these  new parts,..........hence the lack of "detail",.............crash bars/ frames are correct/ acceptable on a repaired Daytona/ Superbird, as these parts were offered for both models, daytona and bird Z bars/  C frames are different!,..................FYI,.........I do manufacturer "crash bars", as a lower cost alternative to the original style "detailed embossements" Z bar,.................just visit Dayclona.com



Mike G/ DAYCLONA

[dayclona]

I had used those dales nose seal on 2 or 3 cars with same results They were like a bottom of a garage door rubber.They had a inflated intertube appearance were thin and cracked .And never stayed in.The ones from Mike G my friend got on his F6 daytona are the best so far .John is happy with them

   Thank you, Dave!.................I know John was dissapointed with Year one/ Dales,..as he should be! doing his nose seals over and over!................their seals look like they reversed the mold or something?.............if they could reverse the finished part, the angles would be correct,.and the part could possibly be used!............I've fought with their part so much!........that's what prompted me to repro my own!


Mike G/ DAYCLONA

[daytonalo]

THANK YOU FOR ADVICE , MIKE WHAT IS THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE LEADING EDGE OF FENDER AND NOSE CONE FLANGE  ?

[dayclona]

THANK YOU FOR ADVICE , MIKE WHAT IS THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE LEADING EDGE OF FENDER AND NOSE CONE FLANGE  ?

          Larry,
               
                     the "gap" between the nosecone trailing edge, and the fender's  leading edge, is approx. 3/4 " to 7/8" max,..........although you could slide it out to 1" max, .......anything beyond this ,............won't look right,..............if you intend to push the nose in,.......allow a Standard panel alignment gap so you can slide your fingers under the hood, to open it,....................you could forgo any seals, and set the nose up like a bird,.....using a standard 1/4"- 3/8" gap between the fenders/ hood, and lower valance?






Mike G./ DAYCLONA