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a/c compressor - seeing smoke

Started by Stegs, December 15, 2014, 08:21:49 AM

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Pete in NH

That drum you describe as an open bowl is the electro-magnet coil for the clutch. You will need to remove it and transfer it to the new compressor.

I still can't help but think the clutch coil was powered up, otherwise the seized compressor would not have effected the clutch and drive belts. The surest way to prevent this from happening again is not to connect the blue clutch coil wire when you install the new parts.

Installing the new compressor is pretty much a bolt on job but, I would install the compressor first on the engine and then install the clutch on the compressor. You will not need any new bearings as the clutch bearing will be part of the new clutch. The photo of the old clutch doesn't look bad, the bearing does not look fried. With the clutch off the compressor does the inner and outer hub turn smoothly and freely?

I would bet Rock Auto isn't going to know about the compressor oil but, you can ask. If it is empty, I would fill the new compressor with 8 to 10 oz. of new oil,  BVA100 ester glo type. That way if you ever want to get the A/C working you can use either the original R-12 or newer R-134A. If it does have oil in it , I would still empty it and use the BVA100 oil.

Also, look in your FSM at the compressor section and look up the EPR valve in the back of the compressor under the rear suction port. Those EPR valves are almost impossible to find new and very expensive when you do. You will want to transfer it to your new compressor.

Stegs

im not going to hook up the blue wire for sure....

I dont know how it happened but the a/c was never turned on...i dont mess with any of the hvac controls. THe only thing i use is the vent underneath the dash that lets fresh air in


As far as the elctro magnet coil, how do i get that off the compressor shaft? that thing feels like its welded on!

and i did call rock auto, they said there is no oil, but luckily i work in the hvac field and we have all the oil, we still have tanks of the old r-12 if i ever wanted to fill my car and use it


I guess my main concern is how this happened. I believe you 100% with it being engaged...but how? I mean the pulley that i have off the car spins but its not exactly smooth.

I hope i dont have a short somewhere that caused this.....

Pete in NH

I would check the wire that connected to the clutch coil with a voltmeter. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and use your meter to check between the connector and ground. If you see 12 volts something in the wiring is not right.

When you get the old compressor off the car set it on its back and look straight down at the compressor shaft. You will see three screws in a triangle pattern that hold the magnetic coil to the compressor. Remove those screws and the coil will lift right off.

Stegs

Quote from: Pete in NH on December 19, 2014, 09:40:03 AM
I would check the wire that connected to the clutch coil with a voltmeter. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and use your meter to check between the connector and ground. If you see 12 volts something in the wiring is not right.

When you get the old compressor off the car set it on its back and look straight down at the compressor shaft. You will see three screws in a triangle pattern that hold the magnetic coil to the compressor. Remove those screws and the coil will lift right off.

my magnetic coil is bad, where would I find a new one or a remanufactured one?

edit: called rock auto and my local napa, they both confirmed that the new clutch comes with a new magnetic coil

so I ordered the new compressor and clutch today...should be here the day after Christmas!