Aftermarket booster

[lukedukem]

My booster took a crap and I need a new one.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114630.0.html

. It's power drum booster for 69 charger,  what's a good one to buy. I don't care about numbers correct and getting this one rebuilt. Just want my brakes back. I'll sell this old one to someone building a period correct charger. Thanks


Luke

[Mopar Nut]

Try the ram man.

http://www.theramman.com/

[lukedukem]

Thanks. Saw he has some on eBay for 650 bucks. Ouch, do they all cost the much? Might ass well convert to a disk set up.
How about a rebuild kit for my current one then, can I get that anywhere

Luke

[Dmichels]

OK I know I am going to get a lot of cr@p for this
I bought a rebuilt booster and master off of Rock Auto for about $125 That was about 3 years ago still works fine no leaks. Yes I know its a gamble with regular rebuilds. There are small custom shops that do grade A work but get big $$ I took the gamble to save some bucks
YMMV

Dave

[lukedukem]

Thanks dave. I'm gonna try that route.

Luke

[Mopar Nut]

OK I know I am going to get a lot of cr@p for this
I bought a rebuilt booster and master off of Rock Auto for about $125 That was about 3 years ago still works fine no leaks. Yes I know its a gamble with regular rebuilds. There are small custom shops that do grade A work but get big $$ I took the gamble to save some bucks
YMMV

Dave

That's a deal, I couldn't find one there or any other parts store two years ago when I needed one. I did buy a rebuilt bendix brake booster off the shelf from Booster Dewey for $400 no core.

[Dmichels]

now $92.79 with master
$76.70 W/O

Dave

[Shakey]

My booster took a crap and I need a new one.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114630.0.html

. It's power drum booster for 69 charger,  what's a good one to buy. I don't care about numbers correct and getting this one rebuilt. Just want my brakes back. I'll sell this old one to someone building a period correct charger. Thanks


Luke

You could get yours rebuilt.

[lukedukem]

don't care about getting mine rebiuilt. i asked the Ram Man for a rebuild kit and his reply was: the chances of your suceess is very slim.  not sure what that means but
sounds like he soesnt think i can do it??


hey dave, is that on rock auto.  A-1 CARDONE Part # 5473501    

now $92.79 with master
$76.70 W/O

Dave

luke

[Dmichels]

Yes I think I bought that one but you need to verify that is correct for your car.  You also need to be aware of the core charge you need to send that core back in the mail and will cost you about 15 to 20 dollars. You also have the cost to ship the part to you in the first place. You should check your local auto part store to see if they can supply it. That means no shipping either way. I am sure the smaller custom shops do great work and are fine for some people. This is important if you need to have the original part back. I am sure there quality control is better but I could not justify the cost and chose the "off the shelf" generic rebuild.  It has worked for me. Be sure to follow the instructions and adjust the pushrod correctly. You could rebuild it yourself it is not rocket sciense maybe a PITA but doable yourself.
Good luck
Dave

[lukedukem]

I'd like to rebuild it myself but can't find a kit for it. I found one here in town I'm gonna pick up Friday. Thanks

Luke

[lukedukem]

Got my booster out tonight, but not without an issue. I removed it with the bellcrank still attached. But when I went to pull it out I noticed a spring attached to the part that the brake pedal bolts to. The spring then goes to the bracket under the dash. The FSM didn't mention it that I remember. I don't have a picture but does anyone know what I'm talking about. What's that for. Do I need it. Thanks

Luke

[Shakey]

Got my booster out tonight, but not without an issue. I removed it with the bellcrank still attached. But when I went to pull it out I noticed a spring attached to the part that the brake pedal bolts to. The spring then goes to the bracket under the dash. The FSM didn't mention it that I remember. I don't have a picture but does anyone know what I'm talking about. What's that for. Do I need it. Thanks

Luke

Oh man that spring...

I remember taking photos of that spring that connects the brake pedal bar to the housing, they're here somewhere.  If I can find it I will post a link.  In the meantime, try looking in my Interior Assembly thread.

[lukedukem]

Got my booster out tonight, but not without an issue. I removed it with the bellcrank still attached. But when I went to pull it out I noticed a spring attached to the part that the brake pedal bolts to. The spring then goes to the bracket under the dash. The FSM didn't mention it that I remember. I don't have a picture but does anyone know what I'm talking about. What's that for. Do I need it. Thanks

Luke

Oh man that spring...

I remember taking photos of that spring that connects the brake pedal bar to the housing, they're here somewhere.  If I can find it I will post a link.  In the meantime, try looking in my Interior Assembly thread.

Ok, so it does go there and I do need it? Ok. It had me worried.  If you find it post it for me. Thanks.

Luke

[Dmichels]

I THINK it just keeps things from rattling I had the same issue there is a photo of it somewhere on here
Dave
found it
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,36277.0.html

[lukedukem]

I THINK it just keeps things from rattling I had the same issue there is a photo of it somewhere on here
Dave
found it
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,36277.0.html

thanks dave, one more question. my new one didn't come with instructions on adjusting the pushrod. i made it match the one i pulled out but when i went to test it my pedal seeems to have a easy spot in it. about 2inches then i get medal and it stops. i havent tried test driving, that is just in the shop back and forth. is this due to not adjusting pushrod
and just to be clear tist the rod coming out and going into the master cylinder?

luke

[Dmichels]

Excusive pedal free play could indicate a too short pushrod. The FSM shows the rod protruding .910 to .920 from the filter housing. That is the white plastic spacer that goes under the master. You need to hold it down with a couple nuts when you make the adjustment