Warranty blocks?

[Charger4404spd]

What ya think? Warranty block or has it been ground?

[Dino]

It looks machined so I want to say warranty block, but anything could be made to look like the real deal.  Not sure what the point would be but people do funny things.  Should it not have a date stamp somewhere?

[Charger4404spd]

Yes it does have a date stamp.

[John_Kunkel]

If there is nothing stamped in the top pad it could be a warranty block but if the top pad is stamped it could be a warranty engine/shortblock.

[Charger4404spd]

Top is stamped D440, built 7/68

[fy469rtse]

yep been machined off

[tan top]

 hmmm   68 blocks  weren't stamped in that location , above the right side of the oil pan rail as far as I know  ,   top pad being stamped D , thinking  IF it was a warranty  engine / short block  ,  by  the time  the original owner of  that 68 mopar  with a 440 in it  , blew it up  , Chrysler were well into the  E series model year  , with a machined pad in that location !
if 68 D series 440s have that pad too , ignore what ive just said   !

has the block got a casting date ?   ,  

[ws23rt]

yep been machined off

I can't tell from the pic if it was machined to remove an old stamping or not. That spot is machined to begin with. (perhaps a ref. point for other machining steps).
I would expect to see a more uniform line formation from the milling cutter if it was recut deep enough to remove a stamping.

[fy469rtse]

have a look on top at rear , parting line to transmission bell housing ,
typical 68's engine and trans stamped together here, Vin could be there
looks machined off to me , new metal finished area , if not stamped , why's there no paint to this area,

[ws23rt]

have a look on top at rear , parting line to transmission bell housing ,
typical 68's engine and trans stamped together here, Vin could be there
looks machined off to me , new metal finished area , if not stamped , why's there no paint to this area,

 I am going to change my opinion on this.  I took some scotch brite to the vin stamp pad on my old C500 block (original vin stamping in place). The machining marks are much finer.
Those in the op's pic are rather coarse by comparison.
When these were made they could have had several machines with different cutters and speeds but that seems like a stretch in thinking.
I agree with it was recut.

If that is the case than the --only-- reason would be to remove the number that was there.

[Dino]

Maybe, but we're looking at a picture that shows a lot of detail.  My old table saws look lke that after having some scaled rust removed.  There being no paint does not mean it was recut.  Hopefully there are other clues to determine what you got there.

[69rtse4spd]

 You can measure the depth of the cut with a depth micrometer or a dial caliper, the later would probably work best. Then measure other 68 & 69 blocks in the same area, if they are within .005 to .010 of each other then probably not re-cut.  But this all depends on how deep the numbers would have been stamped. Dial calipers are not hard to use but if your not comfortable, then get someone who is.  .

[ws23rt]

You can measure the depth of the cut with a depth micrometer or a dial caliper, the later would probably work best. Then measure other 68 & 69 blocks in the same area, if they are within .005 to .010 of each other then probably not re-cut.  But this all depends on how deep the numbers would have been stamped. Dial calipers are not hard to use but if your not comfortable, then get someone who is.  .

To measure the depth one would have to measure from someplace. The nearby cast surface doesn't seem like a good ref.
INMO it would be from the crank bore centerline. Not an easy place to measure from.

[Charger4404spd]

[69rtse4spd]

You can measure the depth of the cut with a depth micrometer or a dial caliper, the later would probably work best. Then measure other 68 & 69 blocks in the same area, if they are within .005 to .010 of each other then probably not re-cut.  But this all depends on how deep the numbers would have been stamped. Dial calipers are not hard to use but if your not comfortable, then get someone who is.  .

To measure the depth one would have to measure from someplace. The nearby cast surface doesn't seem like a good ref.
INMO it would be from the crank bore centerline. Not an easy place to measure from.

Would depend on how good you are, could be done.