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Drive way isn't quiet level..

Started by grdprx, November 19, 2014, 09:49:47 AM

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grdprx

I need to replace my front floor pan this winter.  My drive way is flat, but not quite level. Will that be a problem welding in the new floor?

Troy

How much are you replacing? One side at a time and just the sheet metal floor won't likely be an issue. However, if you cut out the transmission hump (for a full floor) you'll definitely need some bracing.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

grdprx

I'm not sure if I need to do the whole floor or just the drivers side and part of the hump.  I was going to ask suggestions on that, for ease of replacement.  The drivers pan is damaged and a prior owner cut the hump for a 4 speed conversion...  The passenger side has some surface rust, but I've read that it's best to leave as much original metal as possible.

I have a full AMD front pan.  What would be easiest way to attack this?  I'm going to attempt it myself.  I can delay the replacement if a level work surface is required.

tsmithae

Are you looking to keep the 4-speed?  If so, I would be looking to just replace the drivers portion that is damaged and get the proper piece to cover the trans.  Bracing never hurts and is a nice little bit of added insurance.   :Twocents:
Check out my full thread and progress here.

http://www.1970chargerregistry.com/mboard/index.php?topic=119.0

grdprx

No 4 speed, that conversion is beyond my skill set. 

Troy

Any chance you're adding subframe connectors? It would be less intrusive to only cut "patches" for the bad areas - but I can tell you that's a giant pain! All those long butt welds are a nightmare to grind and keep smooth - not to mention time consuming. A full pan will only require plug/spot welds and most are top down (except the firewall seam). Unfortunately, the floor is a structural member of the unibody. The rockers and roof can support the car but the body flexes even with everything together. Imagine removing 20-40% of the structural stiffness! Adding some subframe connectors (or at least welding in temporary tubes) would help a lot. Adding braces from the firewall to the rear seat area might do it too. I don't think you'd end up with an out of square condition due to the driveway but I could definitely see introducing a permanent sag. Before welding anything solid make sure the doors align and still close!

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

grdprx

No plans for subframe connectors. I think my best bet is to wait until I can get a flat/level place to work on the car.  I have a transmission issue and thought about working on both projects at once...  I'll just focus on fixing the tranny first.  I'll be back soon to pick your brain some more!  Thanks