new member with Auto Trans linkage Q

[Roctania]

Thanks
not sure I can do that

So, how do I find out what the top bolt is supposed to be for the

71 Challenger front turn signal/ park lights?

[Roctania]

*silence*

chirp chirp

[Roctania]

OK I now have the factory paper Chassis Service Manual and Body Manual.
It shows the front turn signal secured to the valence tab at the top front with a pointy screw and u-nut over the sheetmetal.  It is disappointing that no one here pointed that out. Such a simple fix. I would have at least directed someone to the factory service manual which has illustrations.

We struggled for hours to get the front park lights to fit.  The one marked L did NOT want to be put on the car's Left side, and vice versa.  This is a cast-in "L" mark, factory.  Chinese valence panel is suspected as the cause of the poor fitment. We ended up putting the L lamp on the Right side. Left the top front screw out because it was an INCH out of place and 20-30 degrees of mismatch with the "mating" valence sheetmetal tab, no matter which side of the car each light was tried on. 

Got most of the taillites working.  LH outer bulb holder was loose in the housing.  It was also ruined in other ways, such as, the wires were held in an incorrect position for a std issue 1157 bulb.  The other 4 sockets agreed on the positions of the two conductors, and several 1157 bulbs [it is a standard] were all identical.  The bulbs all sat correctly in the (RH) and the (LH inner) sockets, but not the LH outer.  So, it got replaced with a Chinee one via Amazon.  Fits the bulb right [though one can, it not careful, extract the wires holder, turn it 180, and have the two wires reversed- easy enough to fix back to what it was though]...

BUT THE NEW BULB HOLDER IS ALSO LOOSE IN THE HOUSING.  It jiggles around and loses ground contact and goes off and on.  This is unacceptable.  Repair first thought is to use its provided ground tang and run a ground wire to a nearby bit of body metal, then use body goo to hold the bulb holder in the taillite housing, so it does not rattle.  I can only guess that the bulb holder got loose and that years of operating that way enlarged the hole in the taillight housing.  No easy fix for a too-large hole in the tail light itself. 

We even had tail, marker, stop and turn signals all working for a minute there.   The 4-way flashers were about 2x normal speed, and the turn signals quit working after a minute, so I swapped flashers in case that was the problem.  No joy, not better, so swapped flashers back to where they were and now we are back to weak 4-ways at about double speed and zero turn signals at all. 

Oh one clue- when starting the work Saturday 11/29/2014, we had no brake lights and no anything electrical.  We started at the battery and worked to the bulkhead junction, then into the underdash wiring.  No problem was found until my partner wiggled the steering column IGN/LIGHTS connectors, then suddenly we had brake lights and all kinds of power.  These connectors look to me like they are not mating properly, like the contacts got corroded, heated, and melted the plastic a little.  I applied silicone grease to the cavities, and they seem to be working better, but I would like to extract/ fix/ inspect/ replace these round pin connectors if at all possible...

Anyone have a line on the proper tool to extract these pins?
I am thinking maybe like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-Electrical-Terminal-Connector-Remover-Tool-/251448282310?hash=item3a8b7c4cc6&item=251448282310&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

We do have spark now, as we found out by cycling the ignition switch, causing a spark to leave the coil.  The coil was fitted with a high voltage wire to allow the spark to find ground easily. 

If we can just get the trans fill tune in place now, and some ATF in there, and the electric fans wired up, I think we will be ready for the firing up of the new engine. 

I assume that the cam should be broken in like other brand engine- run a good half hour at various RPM's above high idle, in order to vary the oil distribution within the engine and whatnot. 

Thanks for any input you can offer,
Roctania
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