Sleeving a Block and some other questions...

[Mefirst]

OK. I'm need some help with the following issue..

The 440 I have in my ride is already .060 bored, so if the engine was to go "boom" the block would only be good as an anchor.
(440 blocks are under the rock over here in Europe..)

So if this would happen my options would be

1: To sleeve the block I have, so I can continue using it.

- Are there any disadvantages with using a sleeved block?
- Where can you buy these s.c "sleeves?
- any other info about this that might be usefull

2: Buy a brand new aftermarket block.

- Here again there are options. Iron or Aluminium?? Which block would be better to build from, most effective use of money spent on the build.


/Tom

[sext7366]

I am sure other guys can give you more info on this but as far as I know the main thing with sleeving an engine is that it is expensive. You can get the sleeves themselves between 25 and 50 dollars, but for a machine shop to install them it comes out to 100 per cylinder on average.  So $800 before adding in any other engine parts on a rebuild.  I just got my engine rebuilt but only one of the cylinders was bad. It too was 60 over and the guy at the machine shop told me that doing one cylinder is not big deal, doing all eight is ok on a street car, but for any kind of racing motor he might go another way.
So I guess it depends on how much horsepower and abuse the engine will take.
As far as the new blocks, all I know is that they are expensive, but being that you have limited access to used blocks, the price may have to be sacrificed.

[Mefirst]

Thanks for your post sext7366**

[firefighter3931]

Aftermarket blocks are very expensive. Sleeving all 8 holes would be a lot cheaper and there is no problem doing this...all aluminum blocks are sleeved. A sleeved block is much stronger than it ever was from the factory. 

Tom, make sure you've got a chip in the MSD box so that you don't over rev the engine. The heavy rod/heavy piston combo is hard on the bottom end and will eventually fail if pushed too hard. I'm going to chip mine at 6200 and live with it....it'll run whatever it runs. 

Ron

[Mefirst]

Thanks for the post Ron..

So your saying that a sleeved block is OK to use, even when going hunting for more horsepower, just use light internal parts.. -Sweet !! In other words -Stroker time Baby...

I bought a new MSD Digital-6 ign. box, problem is that the bastard SOB box was busted when I got it, so I had to send it back. God only knows when Ill get a replacement ?? I'm not planing on rewing the the 440 much over 6000rpm, peak hp came @ 5900rpm, so I guess I can let it rew to about 6200rpm before shifting gears, rew limmiter will be set at 6300rpm...

/Tom

[firefighter3931]

Stroker time Allready  Dang you haven't even run the 446 yet, lol ! 

When it's time to build the big engine just have the block sonic checked on the major thrust side to verify it's structural integrity. Aluminum main caps seem to help a lot and keep the main webs from cracking....that is the weak point of rb blocks...not so much the cylinder walls. Keeping the rpms in check and horsepower below 650 seems to work well for stock blocks. Hardblock helps but then the engine becomes less streetable and prone to overheating.

I hope someone steps up to the plate soon and makes an affordable cast iron waterblock for us street/strip guys. 

Ron


Ps. The MSD chips come in 200rpm before they're advertised "cutoff". If you want a 6200rpm limit....use the 6400 chip. If the digital box uses chips, then this is the way to go.

[Mefirst]

Stroker time Allready  Dang you haven't even run the 446 yet, lol ! 

Well not yet, I'm just thinking progressively..

So using aluminium sleeves in the block, light as possible internals and 493 cubes. I guess when they do the sleeving work, they could just as well mod the block to be a 4-bolted main block.. Interesting option..

/Tom

[firefighter3931]

The aluminum parts i was referring to are the main caps, not the sleeves.  Those need to be a little tougher than aluminum  The aluminum maincaps help to dampen the shock to the bottom end by absorbing some of the harmonics that are present in all engines and moreso on big stroker combos. There are a couple of companies making girdles for BB Mopars and that might be something worth considering as well. A set of aluminum main caps with studs and a girdle would be as good as it gets with a stock block. 

Ron

Ps. The crossbolted main caps are an expensive modification. Dvorac sells or did sell them at one time.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm running a sleeved block without problem by now. Stock and around 10K miles on it along this latest 4 years.

I don't know If I'm getting overheating because the sleeves or I have an inacurate reading on my temp gauge. With the original standar cluster and engine already sleeved temp needle never arrived close to 1/4 of scale on regular use, Now with Rallye gauge, needle is in the middle... with A/C around 2/3 of scale on heavy transit. Between Cluster and interior change I had parked my car around a year.

Standar cluster was 74 and Rallye gauge is from a 71. I don't know if gauges were recalibrated some year, but I remember some Mopar dealer told me some about since 72 or 73 temp gauge was recalibrated to don't scare to ppl with that kind of reading