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What gauge wire and fusible line are you using for a bypass shunt?

Started by ramairthree, October 31, 2014, 10:19:09 AM

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ramairthree

I have recently bypassed my ammeter with the old school bolt off.

My bulkhead connecters look great.

However,
in the same way I did headlight relays, etc. in a 69 GTO I do not see the need for the full power to be going through my dash.

I was going to do the alternator post to starter relay batt. post shunt.

For a stock alternator, should a ten gauge wire with 14 fusible link be good?
Thank you.

Pete in NH

Hi,

I'm not sure what year Charger you're working with, or if you're asking about the 69 GTO.

On late 60's to 70-71 Mopars  the stock alternators were 35 to 45 amps. A/C cars got the 45's. If you want to totally bypass the ammeter, you can wire from the alternator output stud to the starter relay battery post as you suggested. 10 gauge wire would be okay, 8 gauge will give you a little less voltage drop. In either case with a 45 amp alternator I would stay with a 16 gauge fuseable link as original. A 14 gauge link will pass more current than you want, probably something like 80 to 90 amps. Myself, I prefer Maxi-Fuses and use a 50 amp fuse with my stock 45 map alternator. You will still need to bring power to what Chrysler called a "splice joint" which is on the black wire side of the ammeter. This path powers all the electrical items in the car. You will need to run a wire from the battery stud of the starter relay to this splice joint. I would also fuse it with a 16 gauge link or 50 amp Maxi-Fuse.

Dino

Pete said it all.   :2thumbs:

I run an 8 gauge wire through a 50 amp maxi fuse with a 90 amp alternator.  But my original ammeter wiring has been removed as well and the charging system now has 6 gauge wires.  With a stock alternator you can keep the 16 gauge but if you plan on doing some upgrades I would suggest  beefing up the entire system.  I can now have my car idle with the lights on, including interior lights, wipers going and radio on and it doesn't flinch.   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

John_Kunkel


A fuse or breaker would be a better choice than a fusible link.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

ramairthree

Thank you.

This is for a 74 Roadrunner.

On latter Mopars than this,
I thought from the factory they shunted a bunch of the power like this to cut down on the amount running through the dash and wanted to do the same.

There is no awesome roadrunner.com place with all this great info!