did a burnout, car doesnt seem to like it

[Stegs]

ok guys, seems like every time I do a burnout in the charger I have a binding issue when I turn to the left


I will do a nice burnout, drive straight and everything is fine, but as soon as I turn the wheel to the left only, I have some binding like something is breaking

The brakes are brand new drums all the way around, everything is new, drums, pads, springs, cylinders...everything on all 4 corners (and the car did this before all new brakes)

comes from the the drivers side back

weird part is that as soon as I straighten the wheel, and then turn left again, the binding is gone

im at a loss on what it could be...can you help me out? any ideas?

[PlainfieldCharger]

Motor Mounts? Valve in Power steering pump?

[Stegs]

Motor Mounts? Valve in Power steering pump?

no its not the motor, its the drivers side rear tire area....like a brake is binding, but it did it before I put all new brakes on

[66FBCharger]

Sticking emergency brake cable?

[PlainfieldCharger]

emergency brake setting? Since it might be something that was not changed. since you did all the pads again and it changed nothing. brakes could be dragging a little more on one side and heating up. Sure grip acting up?

[Stegs]

emergency brake setting? Since it might be something that was not changed. since you did all the pads again and it changed nothing. brakes could be dragging a little more on one side and heating up. Sure grip acting up?

my first thought was the suregrip

it works great, leaves posi every time!, but I don't know if the gear oil is bad and it could use some new stuff? I thought the emergency brakes too, but it only happens on the drivers side rear wheel, and when turning left (the the binding is on the inside)

[PlainfieldCharger]

Axel end play..bad wheel bearing

[Stegs]

Axel end play..bad wheel bearing

I had the axle seals replaced same time as the brakes....would a wheel bearing cause a binding sound/feeling?

[moparnation74]

Axel end play..bad wheel bearing

I had the axle seals replaced same time as the brakes....would a wheel bearing cause a binding sound/feeling?

Usually, a bad bearing will cause it to drift.  My first guess was the posi unit.
First, I would check the brakes.
Next, if you have stock bearings, I would check end play then the bearing itself.  Reason, at that stage you have to pull the axles anyways for further inspection of the posi unit.
Have you checked fluid level?

[John_Kunkel]

Stop doing burnouts. 

[Stegs]

Stop doing burnouts. 

[chargd72]

Do you have a ratchet style sure grip?  Sounds like a common problem with those.

[flyinlow]

Get on a Nascar track now and keep making left hand turns until you show that car who is boss and it free's up!     

....or check the gear lube level . Is it a sure grip? Does it have the addative in the lube? might be sure grip problem.

[Paul G]

When you do the burnout are you standing on the brakes the entire time? I am wondering if the wheel cylinder is sticking on that wheel? The drum gets really hot from the friction of powering thru the applied brake as well.

btw, look anything like this?

[Stegs]

When you do the burnout are you standing on the brakes the entire time? I am wondering if the wheel cylinder is sticking on that wheel? The drum gets really hot from the friction of powering thru the applied brake as well.

btw, look anything like this?

looks exactly like that LOL, except I have skinny tires....and no, not on the brakes all the time, just long enough to get the wheels spinning and then I ride it out

I don't know what style suregrip I have, its a 8 3/4 rear, I know it works great, as soon as the back tires get loose the car likes to go sideways


I will look into the rear diff this weekend...I might change the fluid out no matter what, any suggestions on what I should use?

I use Valvoline 80-90 with the additive in my truck with good results.....

[chargd72]

Here is a description of the kind I was talking about.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ccrp-1002-limited-slip-differentials/

Description: Normal operation of this unit is as a locker, but it contains a ratcheting mechanism that allows the wheels to turn at different speeds when cornering. These differentials are best suited to drag racing and can be noisy on the street, and the ratcheting action can cause a pushing sensation while cornering. They are also very sensitive to air pressure and discrepancies in tire diameter. McMillan says to do a rollout test on your rear tires to make sure they measure the same in circumference.

[moparnation74]

When you do change the fluid be sure to "lube the posi."  Take it in a parking lot, turn this way that way, circles etc.

Maybe when you had all of that stuff fixed by a shop, that step did not happen.  Same for the hypoid additive.

[Stegs]

Here is a description of the kind I was talking about.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ccrp-1002-limited-slip-differentials/

Description: Normal operation of this unit is as a locker, but it contains a ratcheting mechanism that allows the wheels to turn at different speeds when cornering. These differentials are best suited to drag racing and can be noisy on the street, and the ratcheting action can cause a pushing sensation while cornering. They are also very sensitive to air pressure and discrepancies in tire diameter. McMillan says to do a rollout test on your rear tires to make sure they measure the same in circumference.

yea I understand and know what a suregrip/ locker/ limited slip locker does, I have one in my 98 dodge ram. I put a spicer limited slip locker in that.

My original post is when I do a burnout, I get posi everytime (which is great).....when the burnout is done and im going straight I have no issues at all....its when I make a left hand turn, it sounds like something is binding, grinding...........I thought at first it was the brakes, but then I replaced them will all new parts (everything is brand new)

So that makes me wonder

1. it could be that drivers side rear drum is hot and sticking (but it did this before all new brakes )
2. the suregrip is not letting go of posi...which is weird b/c if I make a right hand turn it doesn't do it, only left hand side......

maybe the fluid is low or old. My car has been sitting since 85 until I bought it this spring......maybe the gear oil is no good or it doesn't have the additive??

I hope the suregrip isn't going bad....it sure does work great right now...no noises or anything going down the road. all is quiet..

[moparnation74]

Always, start simple and move to more complex things.  I would change the fluid, lube it and see what happens. It is about 3-4 qts including the additive. Then move to step two.

[Stegs]

Always, start simple and move to more complex things.  I would change the fluid, lube it and see what happens. It is about 3-4 qts including the additive. Then move to step two.

would Valvoline 80-90 with the additive in it already work good? or do I need something fancy like amsoil or royal purple?

[moparnation74]

Always, start simple and move to more complex things.  I would change the fluid, lube it and see what happens. It is about 3-4 qts including the additive. Then move to step two.

would Valvoline 80-90 with the additive in it already work good? or do I need something fancy like amsoil or royal purple?

This is the additive to use:  http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AB-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W  you should be able to get it at the dealer or order it.
I use the Lucas gear oil SAE85-140 along with the Mopar hypoid oil.  I am not a fan of royal purple products.  However, that is just my opinion.
For engine oil, I only use Joe Gibbs.  For AT transmission/power steering, I use Valvoline Dex/Merc.  People will have varying opinions on choices but this is what I use.

[Dino]

You guys apply the brakes initiating a burnout?  How does that work and what does it do to the brakes?

[Brass]

You guys apply the brakes initiating a burnout?  How does that work and what does it do to the brakes?

Speaking for myself, I never do that.  That's what I identify as a brake-stand, which seems to be regularly confused for a burnout.  A brake-stand will bring the RPM up past a converter's stall, at which point engine torque will overcome the rear brakes.   The front brakes can usually anchor the car long enough for the rear to lose traction and create a smoke show.  In a drag race, you can also use the brakes to bring the RPM up against the converter for more stall at launch.

Personally, I don't care for brake-stands.  Seeing (or doing) a long, throttle-only burnout is more fun/impressive to me.  But brake-stands seem to be all the rage these days.  

[Dino]

You guys apply the brakes initiating a burnout?  How does that work and what does it do to the brakes?

Speaking for myself, I never do that.  That's what I identify as a brake-stand, which seems to be regularly confused for a burnout.  A brake-stand will bring the RPM up past a converter's stall, at which point engine torque will overcome the rear brakes.   The front brakes can usually anchor the car long enough for the rear to lose traction and create a smoke show.  In a drag race, you can also use the brakes to bring the RPM up against the converter for more stall at launch.

Personally, I don't care for brake-stands.  Seeing (or doing) a long, throttle-only burnout is more fun/impressive to me.  But brake-stands seem to be all the rage these days.  

Thanks for the explanation.   

I think I'll pass on that, I prefer not to get out to pick up the pieces that flew off. 

[flyinlow]

80w-90 valvoline is fine with the limited slip friction modifier added.

They only difference to the differential between turning left and right is which way the differential gears spin and which way the suregrip clutch plates move. If the gears where worn and binding in one direction or the clutch plates were galled and only stick in one direction it might cause what you describe.   

Start simple .Drain the lube if it's that old look for metal in the lube or water after sitting.  If OK, install fresh lube + suregrip additive and test drive. Do some figure 8's in a parking lot.

[Stegs]

80w-90 valvoline is fine with the limited slip friction modifier added.

They only difference to the differential between turning left and right is which way the differential gears spin and which way the suregrip clutch plates move. If the gears where worn and binding in one direction or the clutch plates were galled and only stick in one direction it might cause what you describe.   

Start simple .Drain the lube if it's that old look for metal in the lube or water after sitting.  If OK, install fresh lube + suregrip additive and test drive. Do some figure 8's in a parking lot.

yep, I didn't get a chance to do It this weekend, to many projects and a wedding.....

ill report back

[six-tee-nine]

You guys apply the brakes initiating a burnout?  How does that work and what does it do to the brakes?

Speaking for myself, I never do that.  That's what I identify as a brake-stand, which seems to be regularly confused for a burnout.  A brake-stand will bring the RPM up past a converter's stall, at which point engine torque will overcome the rear brakes.   The front brakes can usually anchor the car long enough for the rear to lose traction and create a smoke show.  In a drag race, you can also use the brakes to bring the RPM up against the converter for more stall at launch.

Personally, I don't care for brake-stands.  Seeing (or doing) a long, throttle-only burnout is more fun/impressive to me.  But brake-stands seem to be all the rage these days.  

You gotta love a 4 speed for that :
2nd gear, mash the throttle, dump the clutch

[Brass]

You guys apply the brakes initiating a burnout?  How does that work and what does it do to the brakes?

Speaking for myself, I never do that.  That's what I identify as a brake-stand, which seems to be regularly confused for a burnout.  A brake-stand will bring the RPM up past a converter's stall, at which point engine torque will overcome the rear brakes.   The front brakes can usually anchor the car long enough for the rear to lose traction and create a smoke show.  In a drag race, you can also use the brakes to bring the RPM up against the converter for more stall at launch.

Personally, I don't care for brake-stands.  Seeing (or doing) a long, throttle-only burnout is more fun/impressive to me.  But brake-stands seem to be all the rage these days.  

You gotta love a 4 speed for that :
2nd gear, mash the throttle, dump the clutch

No doubt.  Though some autos will still fry the hides deep into second gear.   

[Paul G]

If there is enough engine power the auto trans will shift through the gears automatically and continue to fry the tires through third gear. Well built big blocks can do this. That is the big smoke show. My small block doesnt make that kind of power. I put my auto trans in second gear, then hold the brake and mash the gas, once the tires are spinning in first gear I let go of the brake, it will shift to second at 4500 RPM and fry the tires in second until the car picks up enough speed that they grip and go. Others may have to put the trans in first to keep it from shifting to second and do the burn out that way if the engine is not strong enough to smoke the tires in second.

You could put the trans in first and do a standing burn out, brake stand or whatever you want to call it. The engine has to spin the tires with the rear brakes applied trying to hold the wheels still. It takes a lot of power to shift to second while trying to drive through the rear brakes and keep spinning the tires doing a standing burn out. Again a well built big block can do this.

Standing burn outs are easily done with the help of a "line lock", or "roll control" system. It applies the front brakes only, allowing the rear brakes to release and let the tires spin more easily. It was originaly used on manual trans cars at the drag strip. The line lock can be set, the front brakes are holding the car still with the rear brakes released, the driver can then operate the clutch and gas with both feet while the front brakes are still applied.

That's burnout 101.