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My 73' Charger will not crank..help....help please.

Started by BMOTOXSTAR, October 10, 2014, 10:17:00 AM

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Dino

Run a pulse or momentary switch instead of a toggle switch so you don't burn the starter.  You can definitely do this to get by.  I'm going to read this whole thread now so I can see if I can help.  I can tell you that if something is missing and not hooked up I would start there.  Forget how it used to work, that has passed so time to fix it right.  Bring it back to stock specs and it'll probably fire right up.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Nacho-RT74

ok... let's see... first need to get patiente.

power to the cab runs like this:

BATT----> Relay stud----> bulkhead with a fuse link in the way----> red wire into cab to ammeter red post----->ammeter black post-----> black wire up to splice down the tape----->becomes red from there up to ign switch.

so, the first you need to be sure is... you have power on red wire down the steering column AND a good contact between male and female ignition switch plugs down the column

If you unplug that ignition switch plug you have acces to male terminals coming from underdash harness. If you have power on red wire there and yellow wire between ign switch plug and starter relay is running nice without any cut, jumping them simply should crack on. Not start, just crank on

Starter relay:
the wire running to starter motor solenoid ( the one which you slide up into the relay provision with an screw ) has no power untill you trigger it from ign switch. Thats the only moment will be hot into relay and wire itself up to starter motor sol.

BUZZER WIRES... they come from underdash harness in two tiny black wires and become red into the column. They doens't have anything to do with ign. they drive ground and is just the KEY IN warning buzzer... this is the switch inside the column for that:



and makes buzz the device plugged into the top of fuse box, which is the horn relay and key in buzzer at the same time.... same piece for all 71/73 Mopars. Some with brackest ( A bodies ) some not since its hold by itself being plugged.

Buzz function is driven by the offset prong




but once again this has nothing to do with ignition... just ilustrating how it works this
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Nacho, thank you.
That is the part that is fried.
The wires from that going into the  ignition under dash plug are fried as well. As you said, nothing to due with starting.

I will take some pic's. I just started putting it all back together & was going to just add a push switch and rig it . This is also my driver right now so I am just frustrated...

I am going to take my time and trace those wires again as you described Nacho...

The weird thing is, & I mean it really sounds like this....when I take the red + & jump it to the yellow wire on the male plug prong on the ignition plug harness it gets power & sounds like a buzzer or something behind the glove box is making a small noise...really...not under the cluster or any of that...but by the glove box... :shruggy:
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

BMOTOXSTAR

I think that noise is from the coil....btw..I did do a coil swap. Power to coil & starts running after relay jump.

Nacho, I just found this...so the stud son that could be bad ? Could I run that direct cable and how to b pas the bulkhead?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=107803.0
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT