Car been sitting up for 9 years, not started or driven, what do I need to do?

[WH23G3G]

I'm getting this 1986 Plymouth Reliant Station Wagon tomorrow for a couple hundred bucks. It's total straight, interior perfect, no oil leaks, 48,000 original miles but it's been sitting under a carport for the past 9 years. Not driven or driven hardly any for those past 9 years. So I'm going to have it towed to the house before I start messing with it. Even the original battery cables are in good shape, no rust, or corrosion on them. It's the 2.2 4 cylinder EFI. The only repair receipt was for a power steering pump put on at 42,000 miles. If it really has been sitting up that long what should I do to the motor before I attempt to start it? Don't know what I'll do with the car but for the price I paid and the miles which I don't doubt at all to be actual I couldn't pass it up.

[myk]

Drain and replace all fluids and filters.  I'd then pull the plugs or otherwise disable the ignition system and then crank the engine over to help lubricate the motor.  After that it's sort of a crap shoot; if the motor isn't stuck in place and the fuel pump is working properly after all of these years, and the ignition system hasn't rotted away then it should fire...

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Yes, change the oil and filter. When you change the antifreeze on these cars , when refilling remove the small plug on top of the thermostat housing to let trapped air out. Fill the radiator slowly until you see coolant in the thermostat housing, then replace the plug with a little thread sealer on it. Then top off the radiator. Too much trapped air will cause cooling problems and the 2.2 has some head gasket issues. Overheating can cause the gasket to fail.

If all the belts and hoses are original I would change them. Pay careful attention to the rubber cog timing belt If it's the original it is likely dry rotted and should be replaced. The 2.2 in a non- interference engine so if the belt breaks no damage will be done but, you will be stranded on the side of the road.

The fuel pump is electric mounted in the tank. After 9 years its any bodies guess what's in that tank. Also. pay attention to the plug wires and distributor rotor. The plug wires plug into the distributor cap and are the terminals the rotor fires against. This burns the ends of the wires and they should be replaced every 30,000 miles or so.

I drove a K car wagon for 20 years and They are wonderfully practical little cars.

[JB400]

First thing to look for, signs of critters.  They'll build a home in every nook and cranny.  Check your air filter housing, bundles of wires, under the dash and seats, glove box, fuse box, any where you can think of.  Check your wiring to see if anything has bitten them.

Next, I'd check to see if the engine will still hold water.  There's no sense in putting money in an engine if the block is cracked from being frozen.  Afterwards, continue on with what's been mentioned.

[don duick]

new tyres

[68 RT]

I'm getting this 1986 Plymouth Reliant Station Wagon tomorrow for a couple hundred bucks. It's total straight, interior perfect, no oil leaks, 48,000 original miles but it's been sitting under a carport for the past 9 years. Not driven or driven hardly any for those past 9 years. So I'm going to have it towed to the house before I start messing with it. Even the original battery cables are in good shape, no rust, or corrosion on them. It's the 2.2 4 cylinder EFI. The only repair receipt was for a power steering pump put on at 42,000 miles. If it really has been sitting up that long what should I do to the motor before I attempt to start it? Don't know what I'll do with the car but for the price I paid and the miles which I don't doubt at all to be actual I couldn't pass it up.

Make sure it will turn over first. If it don't you won't need to do anything else. 

[myk]

I'm getting this 1986 Plymouth Reliant Station Wagon tomorrow for a couple hundred bucks. It's total straight, interior perfect, no oil leaks, 48,000 original miles but it's been sitting under a carport for the past 9 years. Not driven or driven hardly any for those past 9 years. So I'm going to have it towed to the house before I start messing with it. Even the original battery cables are in good shape, no rust, or corrosion on them. It's the 2.2 4 cylinder EFI. The only repair receipt was for a power steering pump put on at 42,000 miles. If it really has been sitting up that long what should I do to the motor before I attempt to start it? Don't know what I'll do with the car but for the price I paid and the miles which I don't doubt at all to be actual I couldn't pass it up.

Make sure it will turn over first. If it don't you won't need to do anything else. 

Yeah good point...

[WH23G3G]

Ok I got the Plymouth today for $350 with the tow included. I just did I quick overlook because I was installing a carb on my Valiant. I popped the hood looked at all the wiring and under the air box and didn't see any frayed or chewed wires or nests. The battery is totally dead, it's from 2000 but looks brand new. The original battery cables are perfect. The coolant level is full in the radiator and right in the middle in the reserve tank. The oil is full and black but not gummy. The transmission fluid is clean and red, not burnt. No leaks, totally dry underneath. No clue about what's in the gas tank. It could've been started reguarly and just not drove. Couldn't get a definite answer. There is still Champion spark plugs in it. Couldn't tell if the wires were original. So do I need to remove the plugs and squirt some oil or wd-40 in each cylinder before I try to start it? If there is some gas in the tank should I try a water remover treatment or gas treatment to see if it will start and then run it out? Should I use any kind of special oil right now to get it alive again or just some good 5W30? Any zinc treatment? Oh yeah it's a station wagon and I couldn't figure out how to get the back trunk door open, no handle anywhere? What's up with that?

[Pete in NH]

I would change the oil and filter. No need for extra zinc in the oil,, it's a roller cam set up. I would remove the plugs and squirt in some Marvel Mystery oil, let it soak a while and then see if you can turn the engine with a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley nut. If it turns freely you could try to start it. You're going to need a new battery. Either a group 26, which is the small one or the optional group 34 type.

The fuel is going to present a bigger problem. Like I mentioned, who knows what's in the tank or how long it's been in there. The electric fuel pump is in the tank and is needed to pressurize the fuel system to the pressure regulator on the Throttle Body Unit on the engine. So. you can't just disconnect the fuel line and let it pull gas from a can. I would say you're going to have to drain and drop the tank, clean it out and start with fresh fuel.

When you get it running the first thing I would do is change the timing belt as mentioned above.

To open the rear wagon hatch, you use the ignition key in the trunk lock which is either under the Penta Star emblem on the hatch. The emblem slides to the side to access the lock. Or, the lock will be on the right hand side as you face the lift gate. There is no inside release lever. You lift the gate by the sort of handle which is over the rear license plate. When you turn the key the lift gate should pop loose.

In a car that's been sitting for so long you'll be replacing a lot of things in the brake system, like hoses, wheel cylinder, and calipers.

[WH23G3G]

Well we pulled the plugs last night and although we didn't use Marvel Mystery Oil we sprayed a good amount of WD-40 in each cylinder and let it soak until today. However, when I went over today I used the Optima battery out of my Valiant to see if this 2.2 Reliant would spin over without the plugs in and I hit the key and nothing, no sound at all. The lights and all the gauges except the fuel gauge work. So I verified it had enough power to start by cranking my Valiant which always takes more than single pump and start. It started it up fine. I decided to put a socket on the crank pulley of this 2.2 Reliant and see if it was stuck. It turned and hit some rough spots with the plugs out. So I sprayed more WD-40 and it got easier and easier where I could turn it with the plugs out by one hand. So I decided to try and crank it again but when I turned the key again, no clicking sound or anything. Obviously the motor spins freely now and I put some transmission fluid in the spark plug holes when I left today to let it soak. Does that mean the motor should turn over by the key now? Is the starter bad? Should there be a fender relay like my Valiant and Charger have that I could try? I know the starter is on the back under the intake but I don't know if you have to remove the intake or change it underneath? I know when I finally got my engine back in my Charger the new starter was like already 4 years old and it took a whack to get it going but it's never given a problem again. Is there a way I can be sure the starter is dead on the Reliant before I pay for a new starter? Or anything else I can try? I just want to see if it will spin over with the key. 

[lukedukem]

you could put a volt meter on the starter to see if its getting the volts it needs to turn over, when you turn the key. if it has voltage then starter might be bad. try hitting it with a hammer, might help. if not getting voltage then starter might be OK, doesnt mean its good because it has been sitting for awhile remmeber. but this is an easy check before replacing it

luke

[myk]

Don't parts stores test things like starters?  Try that...

[A383Wing]

check the neutral safety switch wire plug at the trans...those are known for bad connections....I got an 88 Shadow with 2.5...basically same set up.....

[Pete in NH]

Like Brian said, check the neutral safety switch first, it's right up front on the transmission lower right side. Next, climb under the car with a voltmeter. The starter has two wires, one a heavy #6 red from the battery and a lighter #14 brown. Put your voltmeter on the #14 brown connection and have a helper turn the key. If you have voltage there check the battery cable connections. If you don't have voltage there, the starter relay is on the driver's side shock tower. You're really going to need a shop manual for this car if you're going to keep it. The wiring systems are much more complex than late 60's or early 70's cars. It's almost a hopeless task to figure out what is going on with out the wiring diagrams. Not to mention the logic box and power module engine controls for the engine.

If the starter is bad it's a pain to get out because the driver's side axle shaft needs to come out to get the starter out. The shaft keeps the starter trapped pretty much where it is.

I have a little 86 Reliant as kind of a project car so, I'm very familiar with its systems. Believe me, you need the factory service manuals to get anywhere with the electrical system. Check Ebay, for actual books or electronic copies. It's a three book set.

[A383Wing]

I have never had to pull axle for starter removal, it comes out the top real easy, just remove air cleaner

[Pete in NH]

Hi Brian,

I was basing my comment on my experience with an 84 Aries wagon I drove for almost 20 years. When the original starter died at around 190 K miles, it was the passenger side axle shaft that had to come out. The 84 2.2 was a carbureted engine with an air pump on it and there was no way the starter was coming out the top. I just went out and looked at my 86 2.2 with TBI fuel system and there is a lot more room and less plumbing. So, perhaps with some jockeying around the starter might just come out the top. I will certainly keep that in mind should I have to change the starter because, on the 84 it was not a fun job.

It's interesting to see how Chrysler keep making changes and improving these cars. The later K's had quite a few changes over the earlier 82-84 cars that made them so much better in terms of drivability and repair.

[WH23G3G]

Well a little bit of good news to report. I jacked it up and had a helper with me today. We went and bought a starter relay because the original one wasn't making a clicking or anything. We installed the new one and it is clicking now. So we arced it with a screwdriver and the starter cranked over the engine. So that was a good sign, the motor spun easy with the plugs out, as the cylinder have been soaking for a few days now. We checked it was getting power from the switch but when you turn the key nothing happens at all. You can only arc it with a screwdriver to crank it over. So we tried starting it in neutral, nothing either. We assumed it maybe the neutral safety switch but I didn't look at it because it was late at night. I'll check that tomorrow. I have been looking for the cd copies of the 1986 Chrysler manual because I can't find any repair manual locally for this vehicle. I couldn't find the cd manuals on ebay either. I know I do need one because there is all kinds of relays and a lot more wiring. And somehow I don't think this starter would come out from the top. But hopefully I don't need one since it's spinning over. Any ideas on what I need to check next? While I've got it up in the air I was thinking of pulling the tank or at least fuel pump if I can easily get to it. I didn't realize it's got separate sending unit and fuel pump assemblies. I do notice all gauges work except the fuel gauge.

[Pete in NH]

Good to know the starter doesn't have to come out! Service manuals do urn up on Ebay, keep checking from time to time. There's a set on there now but the price is really high. Remember, it's a three book set. Don't waste your time or money on Haynes or Chilton books they are just about useless, especially for electrical diagrams.

On the starter relay, the 18 gauge yellow wire should have power when you turn the ignition key to the start position. The 18 gauge brown/yellow wire goes to the neutral safety switch (center pin) on the transmission and should be grounded when the transmission is in neutral or park.

[A383Wing]

Pete, mine are 88's without air pump...and TBI cars as well...might be why mine comes out the top so easy

[WH23G3G]

Well I found out why it wouldn't crank. The neutral safety switch connector wires were cut and the connector was luckily still laying ontop of the transmission. I spliced them back together and plugged it in and it cranked. Didn't start but at least cranks with the key now. Today I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body turned the key and it fired right up but of course died when the cleaner burned up. So it's either totally out of gas or the fuel pump isn't working. I bumped the tank and rocked the car back and forth and couldn't hear any gas. But it could be all powder by now if it had it in there for 10 years or someone could've run all the gas out of it. I was going to go ahead and drop the tank but my friend told me I should put some gas in it and see if it might start. Should I try this or just go ahead and drop the tank? Should I remove the fuel filter to get some idea of how bad it looks in the lines?

[A383Wing]

I would first check and see if fuel pump runs with key turned on. Get a helper and a funnel, put funnel in fuel fill pipe, have helper sit in car and then you stick your ear in funnel, have helper turn key to the "on" position and listen for pump...if you hear pump, try putting gas in tank, if no pump noise for the first 2 seconds of key on, then check fuse, relay, or wire connector at pump

[Pete in NH]

It sounds like you're making some progress. As Brian said see if you can hear the fuel pump running when you first turn the key to the run position. If you don't hear it running for a few seconds after turning the key, climb under with a voltmeter pull off the fuel pump power connector and see if it's getting power when the key is first turned.

If the car has really sat 10 years without fresh gas from time to time, there is no telling what is now in that tank without dropping it. The pump and pick up could be totally gunked up with varnish and rust. Personally, I would drop the tank. The fuel filter is located just ahead of the passenger side rear tire tucked into and along side the frame rail. I would change it and check the rubber hose fuel lines on it. Even if you get it running with fresh fuel in the tank you don't want the rust and junk in there getting up to the TBI unit.

There is an ASD (automatic shut down ) relay in the power module that powers the fuel pump and ignition circuits. If you don't see power at the fuel pump the ASD relay might be why.