Lower Dash Pads/Glove Box Door...

[Moparman01]

Started cleaning and prepping my lower dash pads to be re-dyed but didn't get very far. I have a few problems. Number one, my pads were dyed at least once before in white (i'm guessing vinyl dye and not paint on this tho) but not done very well, but they have held up reasonably well with a few little blems here and there. However, when i really got to inspecting the pads and glove box door i found the back sides are pretty rough! There is some decent separation in some areas of the pad and the metal backing along with some rust on the metal as well. These parts are not re-produced at this time correct? And if they are re-produced are they any good? I know Just Dashes restores them but from what i've heard that is very costly, i'd like to do mine myself. I don't have any good pics up loaded at this time but i will get some. My plan is/was to use SEM vinyl prep and dye using #520 Medium Red Metallic, but i'm not sure how the dye spray will work over previously dyed parts, plus i don't want them to look lumpy or wavy due to some separation as i said before. From the outside they don't look to bad, just need some advice on what to do to make them look as good as possible!   

[Dino]

This is going to be a bit hard to explain so bare with me.  First off they are not reproduced yet, and I'm being optimistic.  In order for the SEM paint to stick and look great, the substrate needs to be perfect.  There is no hiding with this stuff.  The first thing to do is to decide if the vinyl itself is still good, meaning no rips or tears.  If so they can be fixed.  The next step is to get them back in shape.  Heat will make them plyable and strong glues can hold them in place again.  If there are chunks of foam missing you can get expandable spray foam intended for doors and windows to rebuild them.  Less is more with this stuff.  If they are badly warped, you may need to make a jig so they pads can cool without losing their shape.  Lumps are easily removed with heat but heat them too much and you will damage the vinyl and that's near impossible to repair.  Once you lose the grain it'll stick out  like a sore thumb.  When they are straight it is time to paint.  If the dye that's on there now has issues then it needs to come off.  Do not use strong solvents or it will eat into the vinyl.  Gentler products and fine steel wool may be your best bet to remove the paint but you'll have to try on areas out of sight.  It may be as easy as spraying them with easy off and wrapping them in saran wrap but you can't take that risk on visible areas so try the lip on he back of the pads first.  Once you have the paint removed you can follow SEM's instructions on repainting them.  This may be more work then you are willing to do and you may find used parts in better shape but if you go that route then you have nothing to lose by trying.  If you succeed, you will be proudly admiring your work every time you take that car out.

[bill440rt]

I took a tip from a mod here & used windshield urethane to glue the separation problem. Worked perfectly!     Just have to clamp it in place overnight & let the urethane set up.

[Dino]

That's a great tip.  Urethane retains some flexibility so it won't crack with temperature changes, and it's a super duty glue.   

[Moparman01]

Thanks Dino, Bill!! Very good info and procedure, just what I worried about with the pads already painted once many years ago. I did try some fine steel wool on them but it did not seem to even take the sheen of of them. The vinyl has absolutely no rips or tears what so ever, it's mainly the edges that are pealing away, I thought about trying some strong epoxy like Bill mentioned. On another note, a friend of mine just showed me that PG Classics now has repro lower B-body dash pads, all 3 sections, but who knows how well they fit and I would have to dye them my prefered color as they only come in black. This may be the route I go, here's the link...
http://www.pgclassic.com/advanced_search_result.php?inc_subcat=1&keywords=%20&categories_id=76&azrefine=1

[fy469rtse]

I was looking at those as well,
not a bad effort on those, but the stitching is not there on these parts , i talking about the padded ones

[Moparman01]

I was looking at those as well,
not a bad effort on those, but the stitching is not there on these parts , i talking about the padded ones

I see that as well, but since I'm in the resto-mod frame of mind no big deal. My one and only concern is fit & finish! They sure do look nice in the pics, and if they are easily re-dyed then I might just pony up and buy a set! I've already saved a few bucks re doing my own dash bezels so maybe this is where I'll spend those savings! Before I do, I'll try to post some pics of my original pads sometime today, just so you can see what I'm working with.

[comet_666]

Mine were also dyed / painted before. I used acetone and stripped them to the original finish then re shot them with Herbs interior dye.
Note: test the acetone in a small area first to verify nothing bad happens. I tried stripping interior a pillar plastic covers and it did not go well.

[jaak]

I took a tip from a mod here & used windshield urethane to glue the separation problem. Worked perfectly!     Just have to clamp it in place overnight & let the urethane set up.

Great tip, Bill. I haven't heard that one before. Next time I get one like that, I will give it a shot.

Jason

[Moparman01]

Mine were also dyed / painted before. I used acetone and stripped them to the original finish then re shot them with Herbs interior dye.
Note: test the acetone in a small area first to verify nothing bad happens. I tried stripping interior a pillar plastic covers and it did not go well.

Thanks for the tip, yes acetone is not good for plastic, that is how the dash bezel over the glove box of my dash got completely ruined!! I'll have to give the acetone a shot on the vinyl, original finish should be black correct? Could the dash be any other color in '68??

I just figured out tonight that my pads have been painted at least twice, and i'm not sure the first time may have been some sorta house paint, just by the runs and drips on the back side! You can see where i was able to peel away some of the top layer of color exposing a cream color underneath. I did get some of separation held back in place with some decent glue, still have rust tho! The PG Classics pieces are looking better and better!!

 

[bull]

Apparently PG Classic is repopping them now, another option if you've got the $$$.

Also, I would recommend you treat the rust on the back (in case you weren't). I used SEM Rust-Seal and they make a Rust-Mort that works good too.

[fy469rtse]

yes do what bull mentioned , treat the rust ,
i would continue with the pads you have , i think there in great shape , remember 45 year old part,
dye them , give them your best effort , i think they will come up nice , much better than the ones i have 

[Moparman01]

yes do what bull mentioned , treat the rust ,
i would continue with the pads you have , i think there in great shape , remember 45 year old part,
dye them , give them your best effort , i think they will come up nice , much better than the ones i have 

I'd really like to use my original (I think) parts, but the pics make them look better than they really are. Like I said there is at least 2 repaints, possibly 3, and I don't even know if it was vinyl paint that was used. Starting clean slate with new parts and dyeing them my desired color looks like the way to go.

Here's a question, in 68 could the dash come in any other color besides black? If you ordered a red interior for instance, would the dash (frame and pads) be red?? I plan on using #520 medium red metallic vinyl paint for my dash pads and want to spray the dash frame in whatever the factory correct dark red color would correspond with the medium red metallic color.

[bull]

Mine actually looked as if they were painted with a brush. What a pain. All the lower dash pads and the upper door pads had been painted and it looked like there were brush strokes. I scrubbed 'til I was blue in the face.