727 rebuild/upgrade...

[sanders7981]

Transmission gurus.... I am nearing the home stretch of my resto-mod and dropped off my 383 to get built a couple weeks ago.  My goal is about 500hp out of the motor as it will be primarily a street driven car.  So with that being said, I am in need of some advice on building the 727 to withstand the mild upgrade of the motor.  I don't want, or think I need top of the line drag race internals, and I am trying to remain budget minded.  What converter, and components would y'all recommend?  Any help is greatly appreciated.

James
GySgt/USMC

[John_Kunkel]

I'd go with a performance rebuild kit with red-lined bands/clutches, a Transgo TF-2 reprogramming kit and a rebuilt factory high-stall converter.

[sanders7981]

Where can I get a rebuilt factory high stall converter?  Do you know of a good site or vendor to get that kit from?

[BSB67]

Where can I get a rebuilt factory high stall converter?  Do you know of a good site or vendor to get that kit from?

You might wait to see what the final specs are on the motor before you buy a converter.  500 hp from a 383 is a tall order if it is not stroked, and will require a lot of cam.  Curious as to the compression ratio and piston that will be used as well

[sanders7981]

I'm not sure what all is going into it internally.  I told my uncle about an article in mopar monthly, or Hotrod magazine that did a build using a lot of bolt ons and some head work, maybe aftermarket heads, and a bigger cam to get up to 475hp.  I am just trying to get the trans refreshed to handle it all so when the engines ready I can just drop it in and go. 

[John_Kunkel]

Matching a converter to a specific engine build is nice in theory but the OP stated "primarily a street driven car" and "budget minded". If driveability is desired over max performance, keep in mind that the wildest engines ever built by Mopar were coupled to the tightest converters ever built by Mopar so a factory converter is a wise choice for budget and driveability.

Macko is a good source for trans kits and converters, the CR10H converter is a factory high-stall and is less than $100.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/A727.html

[BSB67]

Matching a converter to a specific engine build is nice in theory but the OP stated "primarily a street driven car" and "budget minded". If driveability is desired over max performance, keep in mind that the wildest engines ever built by Mopar were coupled to the tightest converters ever built by Mopar so a factory converter is a wise choice for budget and driveability.

Macko is a good source for trans kits and converters, the CR10H converter is a factory high-stall and is less than $100.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/A727.html

$262?

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/TC-CR10H.html

Don't think the factory ever made anything like a 500hp 383. Certainly there are a lot of 500 hp street cars, the question is whether it will idle in gear.  Could be.

Nice info and web page.  Thanks for the link

[c00nhunterjoe]

i think john was referring to the super cars like the factory max wedge cars running a torqueflite with 13:1, dual 4's on a crossram, and big mechanical cams from the factory. they idled in gear and were high rpm monsters.
   i do think that under most people's "street" engines, they will have issues if they just throw some run of the mill "stock" converter in it. you still have to carefully choose your parts for any application, no matter what it is. if done right, you can do it on a cheap budget and have a fun driver car.

[sanders7981]

 

Thanks for the link and info John, looks to be fairly priced too.  The CR10H listed says it's for a 318, would that make a difference?  I saw they have some listed specifically for a 383. 

[BSB67]

.....they idled in gear and were high rpm monsters.

A couple of realold timers I know claim they ran very very poorly in gear at idle.  But that was likely more than just the converter.

[c00nhunterjoe]

.....they idled in gear and were high rpm monsters.

A couple of realold timers I know claim they ran very very poorly in gear at idle.  But that was likely more than just the converter.

By no means do i mean to lead anyone to think that the max wedge cars were "street friendly". They were factory race cars. My point is that they were able to idle in gear without too much problems running. Obviously, more converter would be best, but it can be done without it if you are willing to have some drawbacks.

[John_Kunkel]

My bad on the converter, I was looking at the medium stall on line above (which would still work well).

The first Max Wedges had cams with 320° of seat-to-seat duration and 104° lobe centers and they idled in gear just fine with a 12" converter that was the same as used on the 318. Any 11" converter (like the CR10) is gonna be even more forgiving of bumpy cams.

[c00nhunterjoe]

My bad on the converter, I was looking at the medium stall on line above (which would still work well).

The first Max Wedges had cams with 320° of seat-to-seat duration and 104° lobe centers and they idled in gear just fine with a 12" converter that was the same as used on the 318. Any 11" converter (like the CR10) is gonna be even more forgiving of bumpy cams.

Fwiw, my 383 had an 11" converter behind it with a 292 degree cam and it idled perfect. It cruised like a tight stock converter but would flash to 3000 when you really got on it. It was a happy medium for a street strip cruiser.

[sanders7981]

   great info!  I can start piecing this together price wise so I know what my total is gig in to come out at.