Pissing me off!

[Bowers]

I so step one is to take a live wire from the battery to the connection on the starter relay. Do I take off the yellow wire?
Second step is confusing. Should I unplug the switch harness and use a test light for power? Not sure how to connect a wire from the relay to the switch harness?

[XH29N0G]

Don,

That'd be me    sorry about that.  Clever set up you have.

Bowers,

Continuity is checked by checking the resistance.  It should be low.  I check with a multimeter.  I set it on a fairly low setting (not something like 20M (2 million ohms) because that is for finding current leaks caused by things like fingerprints), but something like the beeper setting or the 200 ohm setting.  The meter will then register a resistance close to zero when the wires are connected properly (or continuous).  All I am usually doing is trying to figure out if the wires are continuous.  Does that make sense.  It is a handy tool to have, and a cheap one (30-40$ at a hardware store) is what I use.

What I did was to get some  alligator clips on the ohm meter and connect one end to the place where the B-1 J1-12R wire (on the wiring diagram) goes into the plug part that leads to the key switch (this is the pin on the plug from the switch where the red line goes in to the switch),  I then did these four tests.  In one test, I connected the other end to the starter spot (where the yellow (S2-18Y) wire goes in and saw if there was continuity when I turned the key to the start position (all the way on).  The second test was to connect to the accessory  (Q2-12BK) spot and check for other key settings, and the next two were the next two wires (ignition 1 and ignition 2) and figure out what key setting they worked.  My understanding is for a points car, they have two of these (one for start and one for run) because there is something different that happens on start compared to run with the ballast resistor and they connect up on different sides of the resistor.  If you have an electronic ignition, they may be redundant.  Anyway,  I checked all of these and saw how the switch made various connections in its various positions.

Part of the fun ( ) of these things is learning this stuff.  Hopefully we only have to learn it once.

[Bowers]

I have an ohm meter, not sure how to use it, lol
Do I unplug the switch harness and check the female ends?

[A383Wing]

wondering if that's not yer whole problem....lots of 70's have bad neutral safety switch connector issues

[Bowers]

I have put in a new Nss. How do I check that? There is no power coming out of the t bulkhead connector when the key is turned.

[don duick]

part one to your question,  yes take yellow wire off relay.

Now the second part of your question do not unplug harness as you will have no power and nothing will work. try and shove a wire into either side of the connector with the yellow wire. I know this may be difficult, the point is you have to somehow try and make a connection with this yellow wire. then run this wire out of the car and under your hood and connect it to the relay. If it works then you know you have a bad connection at the bulkhead connector.

Another thing you might want to try is disconnect the plug at the bulkhead in the engine bay and spray both sides  with WD40 and look at the terminals inside the bulkhead connector and bend them a bit with a small screwdriver to get a tighter fit, better connection.

 

[Bowers]

You guys are great!
XH- I am just checking the male connector pins by putting the black clip on b1 and then the red on the others and turn the key? Look for a variance?

[Bowers]

Don if it doesn't work can I assume it is the switch? Does the whole column have to come off to change the switch?

[don duick]

try the live wire to relay 1st to make sure the relay is working. Then try the switch on the relay also try a test light on the switch. If you are 100 % sure your switch is faulty and you want replace it, you do not have to remove the column only the bracket that holds the column in place. (7 bolts).

when you get the new switch you can plug it in and try it first before you start pulling you column apart. Bet you wont be happy if it does not work. 

If you go ahead and replace the switch careful with the steering lock mechanism upon reassembly. What happened to me was the lock would not engage and lock the wheel. Turned out the spring moved slightly and restricted the movement of the small lever that locks the wheel.

[Bowers]

Ok so the car started with the wire from battery to starter relay and it started with wire in switch harness to starter relay. So this suggests it is the bulkhead connector. What is the fix for this issue?

Thanks

[A383Wing]

might be a wise idea to get a service manual if you already don't have one

[Bowers]

Thanks So Much for all your help. I cleaned out the bulk connector and bent the pin as it wasn't staying in place. We now start with the key!!!

You guys are AWESOME!  

[moparnation74]

Glad to hear you got it fixed!!!

[don duick]

Thanks So Much for all your help. I cleaned out the bulk connector and bent the pin as it wasn't staying in place. We now start with the key!!!

You guys are AWESOME!  

I think I am happier than you are