RamZCharger's 68 6.4 Hemi Restomod

[RamZCharger]

Spoiler looks great love to see a side picture of
Thanks
Pat

Pat, below are some additional pictures of the spoiler with a side view.  It really does not hang low and does a great job of hiding the sway bar.  It grounds the car in my opinion; a normal drive height car like mine tends to look like it is floating without something there.  You can check out the Spoilers by Randy website and under 68 – 70 Charger there is a good straight on picture with a purple 68.  The black spoiler on purple gives more contrast than my black on black and may give you a better indication of the spoiler itself.

[RamZCharger]

This next post is not nice for me and I struggled with whether or not to include, but in honor of full disclosure of the good, bad, and ugly here goes.  This is not meant to disparage, but to be used as a lesson learned.  The first part of my build was metal work and general body prep for final body and paint.  I have scoured over pictures and memory and am certain that every occurrence of the issue at hand has been identified and corrected.  For the surviving original metal on my car paint was removed by chemical strip to pristine bare metal.  Unfortunately under the roofline above the doors and the back package tray were epoxied over without first removal of material.  When delivered to final body and paint everything was one color – epoxy black as seen on the first page of this thread, so there was no indication that total original primer / paint removal was not thorough.  When the interior was masked off for outside paint, upon removal of the masking tape it revealed original color under the roof above the doors and a piece on the package tray.  The newly sprayed interior primer and paint stuck to the tape, not the car.

The package tray has been covered with insulation and modified for speakers (I'll get to this later) so not really an issue – although disappointing.  Under the roofline needed attention and could not be hidden.  So after paint work, this area was carefully stripped.  Untouched original paint and original primer could be seen but the bare metal was perfect.  Luckily there were no rust issues and no paint line to blend, but this certainly was a set-back in schedule and budget.  Many thanks to Mike P and Jimmy for taking care of this.  Now that this is behind me it is water, and a bit of $, under the bridge.  Serenity now, peace of mind, no looking back.

[SRT-440]

Your gonna love the 392! I'm installing a 6.1 in my Plymouth...ur right the 6.1 are becoming harder to find these days.

[RamZCharger]

Your gonna love the 392! I'm installing a 6.1 in my Plymouth...ur right the 6.1 are becoming harder to find these days.

Very cool, do you have a build thread for your bird?

[Memphis Mopar]

 RamZCharger...Lots of nice stuff going on in this build... I also put in a 6.4 in my 70 charger  

[RamZCharger]

RamZCharger...Lots of nice stuff going on in this build... I also put in a 6.4 in my 70 charger  

Memphis Mopar, your thread was referred to me when I was looking for another b-body with a 6.4, great build.  Looking forward to seeing yours on the road, best of luck.

[RamZCharger]

For wiring I went with an unconventional route, American Autowire Classic Update Series Wiring Harness Kit 500467, which is for circa 1950s vintage GM trucks.  This is a high quality kit that handles all updated power accessories like fuel injection, air conditioning, power windows, power locks, etc.  Although the kit makes claims of longer length wire for stock or custom routing . . . this is not the case with a bigger b-body, the wires will need to be extended to reach the back of our long cars.  Not a big deal.  We were able to salvage connectors for the proprietary Chrysler dash switches, so if you can as well this kit is essentially all you would need and a decent alternative to others.  I think a great value, particularly if you compare pricing to the Charger specific kits at YearOne.

Since my gauge cluster was so heavily modified there is not much left of the original mounting surface, and this has posed an issue with fitment of my dash indicator lights.  They are pretty far back, you can certainly see the glowing green through dash holes where the bulbs should be visible, but when not illuminated it just looks like an empty reservoir.  Hopefully an easy mounting solution will present itself; I will not be removing the dash since glass is now in.

A few pictures of the harness and wiring are attached.  This stuff may as well be Greek, or witchcraft to me so I am not a great source of specific electrics, except that this application does work without too much modification.  I can reach out to my builders if there are any specific questions.

[RamZCharger]

Since I am on a roll with electricity let's continue with this theme.  My battery is mounted in the trunk and I am pretty sure has a power rating of 1.21 gigawatts.  The hold-down is from Billet Specialties and can be found on summit – part 248915.  This is billet aluminum and polished, and designed to fit Optima batteries – I highly recommend these batteries.  The hold-down has a black anodized top plate and a clear anodized bottom tray, the bottom is recessed to lock the battery in place, and stainless hardware is included.  I was going to upload a picture of the battery sitting in my trunk simply because I took the time to write about it, but I do not have one handy . . . so you get a stock one from Summit.  It is located exactly where you suspect, passenger side, and will eventually be hidden by a panel with easy access for a trickle charger and cut-off switch.  I will get to the trunk build-out later.

Front headlights are of the incandescent variety, nothing too special . . . yet.  The way I am headed we may see an upgrade at some point.

The driving / indicator lights are illumin8s.  These are very cool, I have them installed on two cars now and they are really suited for Mopars.  These little units have multiple LED arrays that change color for DOT compliance with front of vehicle illumination and directional indication.  Bright brilliant white for driving, but put on an indicator and they turn to amber.  The lights use our existing 1157 socket connection so it is pretty close to plug in and go.  Just be careful with the socket that you do not damage it.  You will need a flasher module specific for LED applications, which is not a big deal.  Check out globaldrive.com for a video of them in action.  I spoke to the owner a few times on a different application about 4 years ago and he was very communicative and good to work with.

For the rear I have Digi-Tails, which are the LED disc inserts so you can keep an OEM taillight housing and lenses.  These lights are bright and come on instantly.  They do have a sequential feature for turn indication, but this looked a little goofy to me on a '68 with only two lights.  A simple toggle switch turns this feature on or off.  Sequential signals are much more suited to a '69 or '70.  These also meet or exceed DOT requirements and per Digi-Tails this is one of the most satisfying upgrades ever – ha!  Love the marketing.  It is good kit, but I personally find my Hemi install a bit more satisfying - but to each his own.

[RamZCharger]

Steering is accomplished through my original power box, sort of, which was sent out to Firm Feel for a stage III rebuild.  Firm feel thoroughly cleaned and fitted proprietary retraction springs in three steps from slightly firmer than original to two steps firmer.  As the stage III rebuild suggests I am all in with two steps firmer.  This is the recommendation from Firm Feel with my increased psi from the Gen III Hemi power steering pump.

Here is where it gets interesting . . . my OE type idler arm and pitman arm from Hotchkiss did not fit.  The arms that came off my car were longer and had a larger spline diameter than received from Hotchkiss.  And so the conversation goes . . . Hotchkiss sent the wrong arms per Firm Feel, per Hotchkiss the steering box must not be right, per Firm Feel I have the correct box for a '68 . . . and I am no authority so around it goes.  Both vendors were pretty good to deal with though, even with all the speculation and deflection.  So I think . . . I have a 1973 – 79 box which is a similar dimension to a 1968 - 72 except for splines.  This is reasonable because at some point my rear differential was switched to a later model Coronet with 2.76 gears.  Talk about a lazy launch.  Any rate, Hotchkiss gladly accepted both pitman and idler arm returns and I ordered a later year set direct from Firm Feel, now everything goes together as it should.  The 1973 – 79 Idler arms are part number IAB3 and the pitman is PAB3 from Firm Feel.

Instead of going with a rag joint I went with a u-joint.  Since I am a novice on this topic I did a ton of research and it is my understanding for OEM 1960s cars most manufacturers used rag joints for vibration dampening and for the play in slight misalignments due to manufacturing inconsistencies.  I believe modern cars use a combination of rag / u-joints.  I ended up going with a u-joint for strength and looks, and everything fits good.  No issues with the header or anything else.  The u-joint is from Borgeson, is CNC solid billet stainless steel, and part number BRG-114921 on Summit.

The box is not working yet, everything is hooked up but I have no power assist.  My builders are at SEMA and we'll be giving Firm Feel a call to help trouble shoot when they are back in town.  If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate your thoughts . . .

[WHITE AND RED 69]

1.21 Gigawatts!!! 

Such a sweet build. Makes me want to redo certain areas on my car. 

[Charger-Bodie]

I'm told that you need a regulator to run the new model steering pump with the old sector.

[RamZCharger]

I'm told that you need a regulator to run the new model steering pump with the old sector.

Since the issue is no power assist what would a regulator do . . . ?  Thanks.

[Charger-Bodie]

I'm told that you need a regulator to run the new model steering pump with the old sector.

Since the issue is no power assist what would a regulator do . . . ?  Thanks.

Maybe running right past the relief? Not sure just saying that I heard that. We just put a 5.7 HEMI in a ramcharger and we had to use a gm pump because the chrysler one was too high.

[RamZCharger]

I'm told that you need a regulator to run the new model steering pump with the old sector.

Since the issue is no power assist what would a regulator do . . . ?  Thanks.

Maybe running right past the relief? Not sure just saying that I heard that. We just put a 5.7 HEMI in a ramcharger and we had to use a gm pump because the chrysler one was too high.

Hhhmmm, could be . . .  thanks for the thoughts.  Anyone with a Gen III have similar issues and remedy? 

[RamZCharger]

I'm told that you need a regulator to run the new model steering pump with the old sector.

Since the issue is no power assist what would a regulator do . . . ?  Thanks.

Maybe running right past the relief? Not sure just saying that I heard that. We just put a 5.7 HEMI in a ramcharger and we had to use a gm pump because the chrysler one was too high.

Hhhmmm, could be . . .  thanks for the thoughts.  Anyone with a Gen III have similar issues and remedy?  

I am very behind on updates and hope to spend some time on the forum soon.  However for now I am happy to report a new power steering pump solved the steering assist issue.  We were getting zero pressure on the original first new pump, the guys at Modern Muscle were quick to send a new one to us - just needed a quick swap.  Works really well with my stage III firm feel box, no adjustments necessary.  Steering is tight and predictable.  Thanks to all who helped troubleshoot.

[RamZCharger]

Your car looks awesome!! Incredible work! Thanks for sharing pics. I noticed you have a A/C line running next to the pass frame rail.. If I remember correctly the 275 width front tires on my charger come very close to rubbing the frame In that same spot so if your running wide tires you might have a clearance problem.

70-500-SE-EXPORT, you run 275s on the front!  That is cool.  Great comment and catch on the tire clearances.  I run 255s and it is close right now, but my alignment is all messed up and needs considerable adjustment, in the next couple days we hope to have it all straight and I will be able to update this topic.  I am optimistic, worse case the line will need to be run up and over and a re-route would just be par for this build.  We will get it right, with some luck it is okay as is.

The AC lines running next to the frame rail have not posed any clearance issues with 255 front tires.  I have experienced some suspension settling and need to adjust height all around . . .  there are some additional items in store for the car's stance and I'll will report on those soon.  Minor stuff as you would expect when breaking in a new build . . . the major architecture is solid.

[RamZCharger]

I am a tall guy at 6'4" and 200 lbs. and specifically took into account my size when designing the interior.  I went with the Corbeau 90000 sport seat, which is uncovered.  Covered options are also available.  At one point these were called GTS II seats.  Seat travel is about 7"s, and they recline.  I also bought their brackets D342T for '66 – '77 Chargers and had them custom lowered 1" by Corbeau.  The folks at Corbeau advised this was as much as they could be lowered.  I had the seats upholstered in the vintage pattern in black vinyl – the pleats are also black.  These seats are good for about a 40" waist, which I fit quite well in and they are very comfortable.

I am not certain what happened with the brackets . . . but they were a terrible fit.  They either throw the seat out the door or into the console.  We made our own brackets to center the seats properly.  Also, they were too high and we cut out an inch from the driver seat, from brackets that were supposedly already a custom inch lower.  You could probably even take out at least another ½".

This was a lot of unexpected work but now I may as well be lounging in Hugo Boss.  The sight line is perfect, I am in a comfortable driving position, and so are my friends that are breathing denser atmosphere.  You don't want to skimp here, a beautiful uncomfortable car is . . . well, uncomfortable.  No time to be penny wise and pound foolish.

[euroZ06]

Wow! 68 is a dream car, and this, this is just insane! I wish i had the $$$

Lucky guy!

[RamZCharger]

Thanks euroZ06, this is certainly my dream car.

My car originally had a buddy seat in the front, and I elected to go with a console.  Expense wise this is a tough one to justify . . . and I suspect I now have about the most expensive console ever put into one of our cars.  Quite the dubious honor.

Quality of the aftermarket stuff leaves something to be desired and unfortunately I needed it all.  The chrome top plates are pretty nice, too bad no mounting hardware.  The plastic body is dreadful; the side trim is miles away from fitting.  The side plastic pieces do not align with the mounting holes in the body.  The body is not flush on the floor and the plastic in general looks cheap and out of place.

[RamZCharger]

But all is not lost, plastic can be massaged.  It can also be covered in vinyl to match seats and door panels.  This is tedious underappreciated work, and it costs.  Builder Mike even wired a button in the console for a manual fan switch, just in case.  I am thrilled with the results and have to give a big thanks to Mike for undertaking and leading this initiative.  It even has a cherry on top as seen in a later post.  Last pic in this post is picture number 200 in my thread – a nice forum milestone.

[RamZCharger]

Now that my console is finished the next logical decision point is what lever to use for banging gears.  My first thought was a twisted vintage type lever with a plain white ball.  Keisler had something available at one point so I contacted the company that absorbed them – Silver Sport Transmissions, and asked for shifter options for my TKO 600.  They were pretty quick in responding and in sending out a picture and quote.  Picture is below, and price $277.  Seems steep to me, especially for a no thrills bent bar.  Uh, no.

[RamZCharger]

Instead I elected to go with a long Hurst lever, actually tried two different sizes to get the right fit.  From Summit the part number is 5384106 and length is 10" with a 5.5" layback.  Nothing fancy, just quality.  For the shift ball my builder talked me into going with a black Speed Dawg ball.  It is in their rally series with red rally stripes and shift pattern in red.  It fits the car, and me perfect.  Summit part number is SK501NL-RR-5RDR.  Both of these parts feel and look great and you are all in at about $150.  The ball has a little bigger (oxymoron alert) diameter than stock and when it is in your hand it just makes you want to flex.  The thing is masculine, an ideal choice for a muscle car.  

The last picture in this posts shows it all together.  You will also see my finished console with an aluminum foot guard next to the throttle.  The steering wheel is an advanced shot for a future discussion that I will get to soon.

[RamZCharger]

For pedals I was referred to Ultimate Pedals by my builders, who used them for a different car.  Check them out at www.ultimatepedals.com.  These guys custom manufacture billet aluminum products to whatever dimensions you come up with.  They probably already have a template for what you may need, which was the case with my car.  They even went so far as to provide a design rendering of pedals with the R/T emblem engraved.  I elected not to do any custom engraving, but could not be more pleased with the results.  I went with a frosted (satin) surface and anti-slip domed grip inserts.  The price was very reasonable, and customer service impeccable – thanks Robert B.

[keepat]

Pedals look cool and your car looks awesome! and thanks for posting the link their site.
Pat
 

[RamZCharger]

I purchased re-popped door panels, and they just would not do.  Like the console we recovered them in better quality vinyl and massaged the shape for a tight fit.  Originally I intended for them to just be black, but my builder took some liberties that I am very happy with.  Instead of a complete black hole he added stainless fins that match the 392 valve covers.  I have to admit after an all-black plan, black is the new black by the way, I was thrown by the silver fins and thought we would need a do over.  But they have grown on me and I dig it.  After a little time I now cannot see it any other way and fully admit this is an I told you so moment.  This fins tie in with all the other bright parts and they grow ever more subtle as the days pass, if that makes sense.  You will have to ignore the awful red floor mats in these pictures, a vendor mistake that they corrected.  I am having mats custom made fit to order and will update on those later.