RamZCharger's 68 6.4 Hemi Restomod

[RamZCharger]

As far as I can tell no one makes a 3" stainless steel exhaust for a 68 b-body, and that was a must have.  A stock new 6.4 SRT8 Challenger has 2 ¾" exhaust and that is the ballpark I wanted to be in.  So, we ordered a 3" stainless system from Summit for a 68 Chevelle by Pypes, part number SGA14SS.  As with any quality system the Pypes product is smooth, seam coated, and mandrel bent.  I have also installed Quick Time cutouts, part number QTP-QTEC60.  The valve is electronically controlled and can be opened and closed from inside the car, and you can control the volume and the flow.  The wireless remote controller is part QTP-10900.  Mufflers are also from Pypes – Pypes Race Pros.

[RamZCharger]

A couple more gratuitous pics . . .  everything is welded up and ready to rumble.

[tan top]

 looks good 

[RamZCharger]

Cheers, many thanks tan top.  I am close to being caught up with the build on this thread, and with some luck I'll drive it in 10 days.

[RamZCharger]

Let's talk drive shafts.  Mine is from Keisler, but I have no idea where it is.  If you bought the transmission kit you pay for a drive shaft, and have 3 years to provide the measurements.  As we all know Keisler went under, and I am stuck.  I had some correspondence with him and they have nothing to offer those who are missing parts, except a forward to a supplier where one may purchase again and get in line behind a very long list of creditors.  To add insult to bank account injury, Keisler solicited me for investment money to bring back his company out of bankruptcy.  I have stronger feelings towards this transaction and I will keep those opinions to myself in this venue, but I thought these facts warranted some real estate – and that's all I have to say about that.  To those poor souls who lost out on entire transmissions, God bless you and keep the build going . . .

My current drive shaft, which incidentally is not make-believe, was procured locally.  I am very conscious when driving a classic car that even with all the upgrades and enhancements in a restomod, that the basic safety technology is about 50 years old.  A little added insurance certainly does not hurt, hence a drive shaft loop.  I bought one specific to a 68 Charger from Mancini, and the bolt in loop is not exactly bolt-in.  It is probably a fair statement that the modifications required are due to all the mods done to my car, and not the loop itself.  Mods out of the way, it is a decent piece of hardware – and the color is a secret ode to the Duke boys.

[tan top]

 I fitted the same drive shaft loop to mine  ,  easier for me , it was a bolt in deal !

think Keisler has opened up under a new name  will have a look for info , watch this space , if you already know  , ignore what i just said 

[keepat]

Nice job on the 6.4 Hemi install and the Chevelle exhaust looks like it fit great! Are you happy with it?
Pat

[RamZCharger]

Nice job on the 6.4 Hemi install and the Chevelle exhaust looks like it fit great! Are you happy with it?
Pat

Thanks for the comment Pat.

So far so good and I am very happy with the quality and aesthetics of it all.  I don't have a driving impression as we are not there yet.  It has taken a lot to get to this point and I think everything is coming together the right way - for long time use and enjoyment.  The engine has been started with only headers, and it was surprisingly quiet.  This thing is smooth no doubt about it, and it was not rev'd at all - just enjoying the milestone of having an installed working engine.  The car has been down for over 4 years now.  I should be able to get more aggressive and actually drive by the end of this month, and I'll have more to report with respect to performance soon.  We should have the mechanics dialed in by the end of the year and I will keep posting as we move along.  I am almost all caught up, perhaps a page or two left of posts and then updates will be real time.  Stay tuned.

[RamZCharger]

The exhaust will give me a very nice exhale; let's give the full respiratory picture with the air intake.  The throttle body has been ported and not only will it add more lungs but provide better accelerator response. 

Cold air intakes are a popular bolt-on performance upgrade that is usually easy to install and adds quick horsepower.  I see lots of benefits including:  increased acceleration, greater fuel economy, better sound, and better overall performance.  I do not have a pre-dyno number but look forward to seeing how everything adds up in the power department as a whole (coming soon).  My cold air system however was not bolt-in so I cannot refer you to part numbers or manufacturers (unless you want to visit my shop Talbott Enterprises), but perhaps my install may give you some ideas.

[RamZCharger]

As it stood the radiator support was blocking a lot of fresh air from getting to the intake.  A window was cut into the support for better flow.

[RamZCharger]

We went through a couple iterations with the cold air box as there is not quite enough room for a "box".  My system is built round and nicely balances out the radiator overflow on the passenger side of the engine compartment and the elbow arm balances the radiator coolant hardline. Materials are aluminum like so many other details under-hood and the black and brushed metal really pull it all together; all the one-offs are a cohesive mix and not contradictory – like this sentence.  If you look closely at the pictures below you will see the air sensor for the ECU.

[RamZCharger]

Similar to the deflectors installed below the radiator to help with air flow we have installed deflectors to funnel all that cool O2 right where it needs to go into the engine.  Some of this eventually will be hidden but regardless if you can see it, it is cool in every sense.

[RamZCharger]

The PCV system regulates and removes fumes from the crankcase to disperse pressure that can cause leaks and seal damage.  Invariably blow-by is a side effect.  Over time this oil mist and other particulates gather along the intake and forms gunk.  Instead of allowing this junk to build up if you install a catch can it essentially "catches" the oil mist while allowing the harmless blow-by gasses to be sucked back into the intake.  A far more severe problem, especially in very humid climates, is that condensation may also pass through a traditional PCV system right into the engine and end up in your oil pan.  To get the most bang in the combustion chamber you want air and fuel only, and trapping blow-by oil before it gets to the combustion chamber not only helps keep the internals free of carbon build-up but assists in maintaining maximum efficiency.  On occasion the can will need to be emptied so easy access should be a consideration.

I bought my catch can from Billet Technologies and it is very nice.  There are a ton of different color and hose options, and this truly is an easy bolt in part (imagine that if you catch can).  Custom engraving is also available for those who like personalization.  If you have read some of my other posts you will recall that I do not like logos.  I gave Billet Technologies a call and asked if I could order a catch can without an engraved cap, and they agreed without any extra charge.  Probably overkill but it gives me a little peace of mind and a pretty cool looking part in the engine compartment.

[RamZCharger]

A less glamorous topic but important nonetheless is the starter.  TTI advises in a footnote that their headers only fit with the Powermaster XS Torque Starter – summit part PWM-9523.  There is a lesson here in reading fine print as a different starter was ordered and returned.  This Powermaster product is an extra powerful starter that is billed as having up to 200 ft.-lbs. of torque.  These starters come with a billet adapter mounting block.  They are not cheap, and unfortunately although they will clear the headers, the engine block had to be ground for clearance – not a big deal.  I do not have a picture of the starter installed, but have attached a stock picture.

[keepat]

Great build and thanks for the info on the starter!
Pat

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Looking real good! The stock look on the outside with all the custom modern touches on the inside are awesome! Can't wait to see it all done.   

[kokxville]

Awesome build 
Make shure you post a video on here when you are done 
I'm very curious how it turns out when it's done.

Keep up the good work 

[Dino]

So when do I send you my car to do all this?   

Awesome build   

[RamZCharger]

Thanks everyone, I will look into getting some videos posted.  Appreciate all the comments.

[RamZCharger]

The exhaust in my car runs pretty close to the fuel lines, it would be a shame to boil fuel after all this custom plumbing.  The fuel injection and in-tank pump should help with vapor-lock; the entire system will be under positive pressure and will run cooler than if the pump were in the engine compartment – like a traditional set up for 1960s vintage.  And if I keep the cut outs open the passenger side will be breathing fire on the fuel lines.  The passenger muffler and the fuel filter also look to be at potential risk, so we added heat shields.

[RamZCharger]

We first tried to mount the remote oil filter on the radiator support behind the front valance, but there was not enough room.  So it moved to under the fender on the passenger side, along with all the hidden AC lines.  I actually like this plan B location better.  The wires and lines are tucked in nicer than the attached picture, but this gives a good indication of it all.  All the exposed bolts are stainless like the rest of the car, and you will see the oil pressure and temperature sensors along with the fan circuit breakers and relays.

And here's a quick tip for those who may mount a remote oil filter in the horizontal position, to help keep those driveway oil changes less than messy punch a hole in the filter and let it drain before you remove it.

[RamZCharger]

I was a user of Car Domain before they changed the format and came across an Angry charger, and some guy named Mike who had some pretty cool car ideas.  Ever hear of that guy . . . of course you have – this forum's very own Mr. Angry.  Any rate, before I knew anything about him I sent a note out of the blue asking about the front spoiler he was running, and Mike sent a kind message in return with all I wanted to know.  Cheers Mike.  

There are lots of threads on using this 69 Camaro spoiler and it made my list of wants too, until a friend turned me onto Spoilers by Randy.  Randy's spoiler is just a bit wider than the Camaro one, is made from 22 gauge steel with a black satin finish and comes with all necessary hardware.  I went back and forth on which one I wanted – I like the look of Randy's better but prefer the idea of a break away plastic one too.  I eventually went with the steel one for a few reasons – looks, and I have never had issues with a front splitter on other cars that I have.  My Charger has normal ride height, which is to say higher than that of new cars, so I think it'll be okay.  The spoiler is a nice part and bolted-in.  What's the saying . . . to the victor go the spoil(er)s, er something like that.  But don't worry, there are many more mods to come on parts that are supposedly ready to go.

[70-500-SE-EXPORT]

Your car looks awesome!! Incredible work! Thanks for sharing pics. I noticed you have a A/C line running next to the pass frame rail.. If I remember correctly the 275 width front tires on my charger come very close to rubbing the frame In that same spot so if your running wide tires you might have a clearance problem.

[keepat]

Spoiler looks great love to see a side picture of
Thanks
Pat

[RamZCharger]

Your car looks awesome!! Incredible work! Thanks for sharing pics. I noticed you have a A/C line running next to the pass frame rail.. If I remember correctly the 275 width front tires on my charger come very close to rubbing the frame In that same spot so if your running wide tires you might have a clearance problem.

70-500-SE-EXPORT, you run 275s on the front!  That is cool.  Great comment and catch on the tire clearances.  I run 255s and it is close right now, but my alignment is all messed up and needs considerable adjustment, in the next couple days we hope to have it all straight and I will be able to update this topic.  I am optimistic, worse case the line will need to be run up and over and a re-route would just be par for this build.  We will get it right, with some luck it is okay as is.