4 hole carb spacer

[Dino]

There's something going on with the TQ, after another rebuild it's now the driver's side venture that drips instead of the other one so this carb is coming off for a thorough overhaul.   

In the meantime I'm going to bolt on an Edelbrock 1406.  I have an Edelbrock performer intake and I have the square hole plate to mate the two but I'd like to run a 4 hole spacer instead.  I have the TQ sitting on a felt that's about 1/4" thick, maybe a bit more.  The carb height may be a little lower than the eddy but not by much.  Would I have any trouble with the throttle cable and bracket if I install a 1/2" 4 hole spacer under the eddy carb?  Would I still need the adapter plate seeing the manifold is spreadbore or will the spacer take care of that?  If the spacer is too thick are there thinner ones and would they still be effective in blocking much of the heat?

[don duick]

1/2 inch 4 hole spacer on an edelbrock performer (spreadbore) inlet works. That is what I have. I used the bakelight spacer as it helps with keeping the carb cooler. works with both holley or edelbrock carb. You will not need the adaptor plate.

[Dino]

Awesome, that's what I was hoping for.  Do I have to use an Edelbrock spacer or can it be a different brand?  I'm not sure if the holes are all the same size or not depending on the brand.

Thanks!   

[don duick]

 any brand should work, mine is an unknown brand. If the bolt holes do not line up clamp it to your carb or gasket and drill them to suit. I know there are 2 different bolt patterns for carbies as you will notice how the edelbrock carbs have 2 sets of holes.

[Dino]

Thanks Don!    

Since the primaries are smaller than the secondaries, can I get a spacer that has 4 equal holes sized like the secondaries or should there be a spacer that matches the different bore sizes?

Primaries are 1 7/16 and secondaries are 1 11/16 so does this not make it a spread bore instead of a square bore?

[don duick]

get the spacer with 4 equal size holes. I have never seen a spacer that perfectly fits the edelbrock carb. I realise the primaries are smaller, I suppose technically you might refer to this as a spreadbore but it is not, it is still referred to as being a squarebore. I tried an open spacer on mine and did not notice any difference, I saw a youtube clip where they picked up 10 hp on a small block chev using an open spacer.

[Dino]

Yeah open spacers are reommended for hp increase, but I'm after torque so the 4 hole would or should be the better choice.  I'll see what the local parts stores have, I may find a spectre spacer or something and if not I'll order one online.  For now I'm just going to use the adapter to put a scuare bore on a spreadbore intake so I can compare with the spacer later or I'll never know if it works.  My 1407 didn't have fuel boiling issues once I blocked the heat crossover so the car should run fine either way. 

I guess in order to call it a spread bore it needs a bit more than a small difference in bore sizes.  I didn't know that the secondaries were the same size as the 1407 until I compared them so I'm curious to see how it runs.   

Thanks a million for the help Don!   

[don duick]

I have a 600 edelbrock carb as a spare when my tempermental holley plays up. The edelbrock carb runs so good and very reliable wish it was a 750 but I have read the 750 version is not as good?. I bought a 750 holley HP series carb and having problems tuning it so am using the 600 eddy ay the moment. If you have the correct jets ands rods you will be very happy with it. Hope it works well for you.

[Dino]

I have a 600 edelbrock carb as a spare when my tempermental holley plays up. The edelbrock carb runs so good and very reliable wish it was a 750 but I have read the 750 version is not as good?. I bought a 750 holley HP series carb and having problems tuning it so am using the 600 eddy ay the moment. If you have the correct jets ands rods you will be very happy with it. Hope it works well for you.

Thanks!

I have the 750 version as well and I never got it to run right.   I'm sure my cam is part of the problem but others have said the same about the 750.  On a stockish engine it should be decent with the right jets though, I would think.

[kokxville]

Dino,

get a proform carb.I replaced my edelbrock for a 750 street use carb.Fixed all my problems 
You may ask Firefighter Ron here.He helped me out.

John 

[myk]

I have a 600 edelbrock carb as a spare when my tempermental holley plays up. The edelbrock carb runs so good and very reliable wish it was a 750 but I have read the 750 version is not as good?. I bought a 750 holley HP series carb and having problems tuning it so am using the 600 eddy ay the moment. If you have the correct jets ands rods you will be very happy with it. Hope it works well for you.

Thanks!

I have the 750 version as well and I never got it to run right.   I'm sure my cam is part of the problem but others have said the same about the 750.  On a stockish engine it should be decent with the right jets though, I would think.

Another disgruntled 'Eddy 750 user here...

[Dino]

Dino,

get a proform carb.I replaced my edelbrock for a 750 street use carb.Fixed all my problems 
You may ask Firefighter Ron here.He helped me out.

John 

Hey John, if ever I decide to go back to a square bore 750 that is exactly what I will get.   

[Dino]

I have the 1406 in place without a spacer for now, simply the adapter plate sandwiched between two gaskets.  It started up great but I need to turn the idle up over 1000 rpm to keep it running and then still it dies a lot, it'll die when you put it in gear as well.  Starts right back up though and has pretty good throttle response. 

First thing on the list for tomorrow is measuring fuel pressure and checking the floats.  I didn't touch them and I should have since it was shipped.  I know the floats are pretty sensitive.

Once it's setup I'll do some testing and then put a spacer on to see what, if any, difference it makes.

[don duick]

a spacer wont solve the problem you have now. Pcv valve hose hooked up? idle mixture screws set? no air leaks, spacer and gasket fully sealed? the problem you have now is unusual for a 600 eddy. the last time I had this problem I forgot to connect the hose for the pcv valve.

[Dino]

PCV hose is hooked up but it's really stiff so I'll get another.  I don't suppose I can use a piece of fuel hose to test it?  I have plenty of that laying around.  I'll check for air leaks, I covered the horn with my hand and the car choked and died so I assumed it was okay but I'll spray some carb cleaner around the base to make sure.  Idle mixture screws are currently set at 2 turns out.  The idle is so high that I can seat them both without any change, the car just keeps on running.

It's funny, although it has these issues, you can tell that the car will run smoother than before, not to mention there is no more fuel smell!

I'll open up the carb today, is there anything I need to pay special attention to besides clogged passageways?

[Dino]

I forgot to add this.  The carb came with a banjo fitting and since I didn't know if I was keeping this carb or not, I didn't buy a metal fuel line yet so I ran a rubber hose from the vapor separator to the carb.  This is merely for testing, once I decide I'm keeping the carb I'll get the proper line.  When looking straight at the passenger side of the carb, the banjo fitting points to the 8 o'clock position so down and towards the firewall.  This way the rubber hose is not laying on or near the valve cover to keep it cooler.  This may be completely unrelated to the carb's actions but could it be that the bend going onto the banjo fitting is too tight?  I can aim it down a bit to increase the angle the hose makes.

I'll start by spraying some cleaner around the base to check for leaks and then will remove the carb and open it up to clean it and check the floats.  The carb sits on an Edelbrock adapter plate #2732 with Mr. Gasket #54 on either side.  Is that alright?

[Charger-Bodie]

I forgot to add this.  The carb came with a banjo fitting and since I didn't know if I was keeping this carb or not, I didn't buy a metal fuel line yet so I ran a rubber hose from the vapor separator to the carb.  This is merely for testing, once I decide I'm keeping the carb I'll get the proper line.  When looking straight at the passenger side of the carb, the banjo fitting points to the 8 o'clock position so down and towards the firewall.  This way the rubber hose is not laying on or near the valve cover to keep it cooler.  This may be completely unrelated to the carb's actions but could it be that the bend going onto the banjo fitting is too tight?  I can aim it down a bit to increase the angle the hose makes.

I'll start by spraying some cleaner around the base to check for leaks and then will remove the carb and open it up to clean it and check the floats.  The carb sits on an Edelbrock adapter plate #2732 with Mr. Gasket #54 on either side.  Is that alright?

Can you post a pic of the adapter plate? Those things can cause a lot of trouble. As for the fuel fitting, that shouldn't hurt anything.

[Dino]

This is the one.

Edelbrock says it's the one needed to bolt a square bore carb to a spread bore intake.  I used the same plate on the 1407 and it worked fine but I only used one gasket instead of two.  I figured two would be better.

[Charger-Bodie]

That one is fine. I was thinking thick aluminum junk.

[Dino]

That one is fine. I was thinking thick aluminum junk.

Cool!  Thanks for checking.   

I decided to pull the carb first before doing anything else, just to make sure all is well with it.  When I pulled it I snapped a few pictures of the gasket.  Look at the driver's side of the gasket, it seems to have been wet towards the back and especially on the driver's side, where the '54' imprint is.  Does this look like a vacuum leak?

[Dino]

I removed the air horn and found quite a bit of dirt in the carb so I'm off to the store to get some carb cleaner!  I checked the float height which is 7/16" when inverted, per specs, but 1.5" when right side up, it should be 15/16" to 1" so I'll adjust that.  The carb itself looks great apart from the dirt so hopefully cleaning it out, resetting the floats and tightening up the carb to the manifold will do the trick.  Or should I find another type of gasket?

[firefighter3931]

This is the one.

Edelbrock says it's the one needed to bolt a square bore carb to a spread bore intake.  I used the same plate on the 1407 and it worked fine but I only used one gasket instead of two.  I figured two would be better.

Dirk, you need two gaskets....one underneath the plate and another on top of the plate between it and the carburetor. Otherwise you will have a vacuum leak. 


Ron

[Charger-Bodie]

Make sure everything is flat and true.

[Dino]

I do have two gaskets on the 1406, only had one on the 1407.  I checked the intake manifold and the ridges are clean, but I found a small amount of caked on carbon on the inside edge of the carb rail so that may have been the culprit.  it's my own fault for not cleaning the carb BEFORE I put it on.  I just need to set the floats now and it can go back on, everything is clean again.

I ran out of carb cleaner again, should have bought two cans, so what else can I use to test for vacuum leaks?  Brake cleaner alright?  It's mainly acetone just like carb cleaner but I'm sure there's some other stuff in there.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks fellas!   

[Dino]

Update:

The adapter plate was not perfectly flat.  I placed it on my table saw and saw it had a tiny bit of a crown in the center so I took a minute hammering it flat again.  I also flipped it concave side up so to speak and tightened the carb to ensure the plate was flat.  No more vacuum leaks.   

I took the carb apart, cleaned everything up and installed new gaskets.  It wasn't too bad, all the dirt seemed to be in the float bowls.  I also reset the floats to Eddy specs.

The car fired right up and settled into the fast idle.  I tapped the gas and it dropped to 800 rpm so I let it warm up at idle.  The venturis are no longer dumping fuel at idle!  Woohoo!!

Vacuum always used to be in the low 15 range but for the life of me I can't get it there anymore, It's around 11, same as with the TQ although that too used to pull 15.  Idle mixture screws are set to 2 turns out.  It's a bit rich coming out of the tailpipes but not too bad.  I drove around with the window down and couldn't really smell anything but by that time my sweater was a bit smelly from tuning it.  It may need some more adjustments.  I didn't touch the timing, base is still at 24 with vacuum advance disconnected.  I'll hook it back up to ported and full to compare, but not until everything is set as it should.

I left the throttle cable off while adjusting things to be sure it wasn't pulling the blades open.  I put it in drive and the idle dropped a bit but it kept right on running.  So far so good!  The idle is still not super smooth, probably because of the cam, but it's the best it's been in a long time.  Definitely good enough for now.   

I hooked up the throttle cable and it seemed that everything was alright but I guess I need to figure out how to adjust the throttle cable because I only have about an inch of travel before it hits the floor.  I don't know if it's the cable or just the carb, but compared to the TQ this thing is pretty gutless.  There's no way to make the tires spin now, not even in first gear. 

However, it cruises beautifully and for now that's what I need.     This is the first time this year I could drive for 30 minutes without seeing the needle on the fuel gauge drop.   

I'm looking through the FSM to figure out how to set the throttle cable but if someone can explain it I would be very grateful.  Kickdown linkage seems to be where it is.  Under light throttle it shifts into third around 47 mph.  Is that about right?

From idle I have a bit of a bog if I punch it but it's not nearly as bad as the one my 750 had.  I have the accelerator pump in the middle hole so I probably need to move it.  When I flick the throttle linkage I hear a rush of air followed shortly by the rise in rpm so I 'think' I need a bigger fuel shot so I should use the hole closest to the air horn, does that sound right?  With normal acceleration there is no bog nor is there one when I punch it at anything above idle.  I'll miss the roar and power of the TQ but boy am I glad it's running decent again. 

Thanks again for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.