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DP 50 epoxy problem

Started by Tscott38, September 22, 2014, 07:15:42 PM

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Tscott38

I've just finished(almost) all my primer work and then decided to swap out my windshield.  I figured it would be easy. I had no rust issues and stripped the windshield channel down to bare steel just as I has done earlier with the entire car.  I had a little bit of  dp50lf left and mixed up a small bit of it let if wait 30 minutes and brushed on two coats waiting an hour or so between. The next day I go in and wipe a little lacquer thinner over one part of it cause it was a little rough and a couple swipes takes the epoxy off.  I am horrified.  I just did the whole car with this stuff.  What's different is I never touched anything with laqcuer thinner so soon before.  Also I might have been off with my mix ratios since I'm painting such a small amount- like half an ounce.  What could have happened ?  Other places on the car I have wiped lacquer thinner on and the epoxy is on there and won't come off. 

hemi-hampton

Lacquer thinner is much stronger then enamel reducer or most other solvents & typically will remove paint or other solvents. If to fresh & not hard will remove more easily. Why did you wipe a rough spot with thinner, what were you planning on doing by wiping with thinner? :shruggy:

Tscott38

since it was a small area and I had brushed it on, it had some dirt/sand/contaminants  on it in one isolated spot.  I thought I could knock that out with the Lacquer thinner.  If you rub Lacquer thinner over this stuff a lot, it does wear it off - have done this if I had a small drip or overspray elsewhere.  I was shocked that it came off so easily this time though and thought that my catalyst had gone bad, or that i had the ratio way off.  I was measuring this stuff out by the drop, not in a measured container and thought that may be a problem as the DP50 is thick and the DP401 is thin and I could have been off.  I am down to my last 10 drops of catalyst and my last half ounce of DP50. I didnt want to buy another quart to do a few square inches of  surface.  Thank you for the reply.   

73rallye440magnum

I have experience with a few different paint systems and although I will say PPG epoxy is my least favorite, I'll repeat hemi-Hampton and reiterate that lacquer thinner is a very aggressive solvent. Your epoxy was not even close to cured.

No big deal, touch up any bare metal spots again.
WTB- 68 or 69 project

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8, XH29G0

hemi-hampton

Get a air blower & blow the area out good with compressed air, or use a male/female air fitting screwed together (my preferred method) and blow out to remove debris then use Wax & Grease remove to remove contaminents. Then your good to go with no problems. Unless you don't have a compressor or blower or wax & grease remover, then your likely to run into problems. LEON.

Patronus

Did you forget any hardener? (I dont use DP50) Is it 2 or 3 parts?
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Tscott38

Thanks everyone for the ideas.  Does anyone think mixing the epoxy and the catalyst has to be exact or not curing could happen?  That was my fear.

hemi-hampton

Did you ise the 401 or 402 Hardener. The 401 needs a 30 minute permeation period. Where you stir it & let it sit for 30 minutes before you use it. I prefer the 402 myself as there is no waiting. LEON.

Tscott38

I had run out of my 401 so I found an old can of 402 I had around for a few years.   It was amber colored. Don't know if it was bad or not.  Regardless I wiped it all off bought a new pint of 401 waited 30 minutes and redid it.  I left it alone this time for 3 days and it's fine now.  Thanks for the help. 

hemi-hampton

Any Hardener is notorious for going bad quick if the top is not screwed on very tight. Any air or moisture in the hardener will ruin it. LEON.