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Started having bad vibrations... Help... 73 charger

Started by euroZ06, September 22, 2014, 08:22:05 PM

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euroZ06

Hello,

I need help. I have been dding the car for past month, so a few issues came to light. Yesterday i started having vibrations when rpms get high (past 2.5k). Say if im cruising on the highway at 3k rpm, there is vibration, and it transfers over to the shifter and a bit to the clutch pedal. Its not wheel vibration. I was told tol check the driveshaft, if there is any play in it, and there is a little bit of play but not significatn. Could that be it? Any other things that i should look at? If it is that, what do i need to fix it? Car is a 73 with 440(originally 400) and a 4 speed manual. What parts would i need, and what is the process of replacing said parts...

Thanks

68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

PlainfieldCharger

Shouldn't have any "play". Where is the play you see? :2thumbs:

euroZ06

Well in that picture, thats the driveshaft going towards the engine. So when i try to move the driveshaft around, there is little play right where it goes in (to the tranny?) (center of the pic).

Could it be that some other mount is broken, or is driveshaft the likely culprit? Like i said, it gets vibrations through the gear shifter (i used to have them in the past too, but now its worse), and the whole car just gets likea slight vibration (its subtle, but can be felt... Almost like when u get small electrical current going through the body).

68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

PlainfieldCharger

I would start with the u joint first. Those look like they have been there a while. Not too hard to change. :cheers:

euroZ06

Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 23, 2014, 09:16:23 AM
I would start with the u joint first. Those look like they have been there a while. Not too hard to change. :cheers:

Thanks. Any advice on how to?
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

JB400

The u joints are held in with wire clips or snap rings.   You'll probably need to spray them with penetrant oil to help loosen them.  Put the drive shaft up on a set of blocks so you can drive out the caps.  Use a socket that is just big enough to cover the cap and drive the cap out with a hammer.  This will remove the cap on the other side of the drive shaft.  Then, just tap the u joint the other way to remove the other cap.  Then, you should be able to slide the u joint out.  You'll have to repeat this to do the yoke as well.

To install, just remove the caps, making sure not to disturb the little needle bearings inside the caps.  If you do disturb them, you'll have to put them back :brickwall:  Slide the u joint back into the drive shaft, and slide the caps back in place one at a time, again, making sure that you don't disturb the needle bearings.  You'll have to probably tap the caps back in using the socket and a hammer, just use light taps.  Tap it into place until you can install the wire clips.  Repeat for the other side and the yoke.

A tip for when replacing the rear u joint:  Tape the 2 caps into place with electrical tape until you are ready to mount the drive shaft to the pinion.  It keeps you from loosing the caps and disturbing the needle bearings.  Don't forget to grease your u joints when your done. :2thumbs:

Now would also be a good time to check your trans mount to make sure it's still good.

fy469rtse

With bad universals, they especially the front one could flog out the bush in rear extension housing of transmission
That seal is the wrong one also
Correct one has a boot extension to protect the slip yoke from going cruddy looking, like in your photo
As suspension go's up and down , that slip yoke does exactly that slips in and out of tranny,
That cruddy area , when suspension goes up and down will pass the lip of seal, causing the fluid leak splashed around that you see,
Linish the slip yoke while you have it out to do uni's, and get the correct boot seal  :2thumbs:

euroZ06

Quote from: JB400 on September 24, 2014, 02:21:39 AM
The u joints are held in with wire clips or snap rings.   You'll probably need to spray them with penetrant oil to help loosen them.  Put the drive shaft up on a set of blocks so you can drive out the caps.  Use a socket that is just big enough to cover the cap and drive the cap out with a hammer.  This will remove the cap on the other side of the drive shaft.  Then, just tap the u joint the other way to remove the other cap.  Then, you should be able to slide the u joint out.  You'll have to repeat this to do the yoke as well.

To install, just remove the caps, making sure not to disturb the little needle bearings inside the caps.  If you do disturb them, you'll have to put them back :brickwall:  Slide the u joint back into the drive shaft, and slide the caps back in place one at a time, again, making sure that you don't disturb the needle bearings.  You'll have to probably tap the caps back in using the socket and a hammer, just use light taps.  Tap it into place until you can install the wire clips.  Repeat for the other side and the yoke.

A tip for when replacing the rear u joint:  Tape the 2 caps into place with electrical tape until you are ready to mount the drive shaft to the pinion.  It keeps you from loosing the caps and disturbing the needle bearings.  Don't forget to grease your u joints when your done. :2thumbs:

Now would also be a good time to check your trans mount to make sure it's still good.



Thanks! So i should be able to do it in the driveway with a jack? I dont think i need to replace the rear one, i had diff taken off about a month ago and wasnt told by the shop that there is anything wrong on that end.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

Quote from: fy469rtse on September 24, 2014, 05:28:41 AM
With bad universals, they especially the front one could flog out the bush in rear extension housing of transmission
That seal is the wrong one also
Correct one has a boot extension to protect the slip yoke from going cruddy looking, like in your photo
As suspension go's up and down , that slip yoke does exactly that slips in and out of tranny,
That cruddy area , when suspension goes up and down will pass the lip of seal, causing the fluid leak splashed around that you see,
Linish the slip yoke while you have it out to do uni's, and get the correct boot seal  :2thumbs:

Phew, i am having hard time time figuring out what exactly is wrong... Would u be so kind and shoot me a link to the part that i need to buy? Is it that piece that connects the driveshaft and the tranny? Does it just pull out of there (once i have the driveshaft disconnected from the u joint?).

Im not very technical, but i can turn a wrench and follow directions lol
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

Quote from: fy469rtse on September 24, 2014, 05:28:41 AM
With bad universals, they especially the front one could flog out the bush in rear extension housing of transmission
That seal is the wrong one also
Correct one has a boot extension to protect the slip yoke from going cruddy looking, like in your photo
As suspension go's up and down , that slip yoke does exactly that slips in and out of tranny,
That cruddy area , when suspension goes up and down will pass the lip of seal, causing the fluid leak splashed around that you see,
Linish the slip yoke while you have it out to do uni's, and get the correct boot seal  :2thumbs:

Sorry, i looked up some terms and figured out what u said, but still have questions/need help. So linish, can i just use a sand paper? Will the yoke come out when im swapping the u joint? U said replace the seal? Which seal would i need? Which boot do i need?


Thanks :)
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

JB400

Yes, you should be able to do this project in the driveway.  Just remember to use jack stands or some sturdy blocks.  Don't leave the car sitting on the jack. :slap:

euroZ06

I found another thread that said small play in yolk is ok, as long as its not at the u joint... It said hold the yolk on one side and try and move the driveshaft, and u will be able to see if there is play at the u joint. Ill do that tomorrow, but if i recall there was none. Just where the yolk goes into tranny (input shaft?), and even there its minimal. If i take apart the ujoint (to replace the seal), can i put it back together the same way?

Is this the seal that i would need? What is the necessity level to replace that seal?

http://www.carid.com/1973-dodge-charger-transmission-parts/timken-manual-transmission-input-shaft-seal-20417540.html


Or this?

http://www.carid.com/1973-dodge-charger-transmission-parts/timken-manual-transmission-output-shaft-seal-20444448.html


How many spleens? Its a 4 spd manual, originally had 400, but now has 440
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55


fy469rtse

The second seal looks correct,
That's the one with the extend area ( boot ) just make sure it's for big block , same sort of seal available for small block trans and won't fit  so double check that
To linish yoke yes sand paper will do it
Put yoke in a vice , long strips of fine grade 320. 400 wrap around in a u shape and work back and forth and around , you don't want to put any flat spots on it

PlainfieldCharger

When you pull the yoke out of the trans, some oil will come out so have a catch pan or you'll have a little mess to clean up.. :2thumbs: