1969 383 header removal

[Bandit360]

I've got a 69 Charger that I bought 8 months ago, and I'm finally getting around to fixing the interference  between the drivers side header and the power steering box. The number 5 pipe has no clearance between it and the box, so the engine vibration is transmitted through the steering column.

I want to reshape the pipe slightly, flattening it on the side to gain about 1/4 inch clearance. But I can't get the darn thing out.  I can't slide it rearward far enough to slip it out the bottom because the starter is in the way. I can't slide the header forward enough to gain enough room to slide the starter forward to clear the bell housing either.

I need help, I'm stuck.  Do I need to remove the power steering box?  Maybe the pump?  Does the steering linkage need to come out?  Do you pull it out the bottom or the top?  Any ideas would be appreciated.

69 383/727 A/C PS PB (I didn't put the headers in, so can't draw on previous knowledge)

Ray

[1965gp]

I had a similar issue replacing the headers on my 69. Couldn't get the old driver side off so I literally used a Sawzall.

After that it was pretty easy....

After fighting the new headers and scratching the hell out of them I noticed the same thing. I wasn't about to pull them out again... What eventually worked was a long pry bar bending the primary tube. Doesn't take much pressure just take your time.

[rich4406bbl]

You don't say if they are 1 or 2 piece headers but will have to remove the driver's side engine mount to k-frame bolt. Do NOT remove the pass side bolt since this will allow the engine to rotate slightly when it is raised. Place a block of wood under the oil pan and slowly and carefully jack up the engine with a floor jack a few inches. This will enable the starter to be removed and then the header will droip out. Of course putting it all back together can be a bit tricky.

[Bandit360]

You don't say if they are 1 or 2 piece headers but will have to remove the driver's side engine mount to k-frame bolt. Do NOT remove the pass side bolt since this will allow the engine to rotate slightly when it is raised. Place a block of wood under the oil pan and slowly and carefully jack up the engine with a floor jack a few inches. This will enable the starter to be removed and then the header will droip out. Of course putting it all back together can be a bit tricky.

They're one piece.  I have an engine hoist so I'll remove the drivers side engine mount bolt like you suggested (and the fan shroud first) and lift it up a bit.  Hope the steering box doesn't have to come out too.  Was really surprised to see coolant flow out when I took the header bolts off the block.  I assume they'll have to be sealed before putting them back in (with what?).  Thanks for the tip.  More complicated job than I expected. Gonna be difficult fitting it back in.  Think I'll duct tape the starter to the header and slide it back up as one.

Ra

[Bandit360]

I got it out, and partially back in.  What a pain.  The car needs about 18"off the floor measured to the center off the front wheel hub.  After the header bolts are off, used a chain and engine hoist attached at the front two drivers side exhaust manifold holes to lift the engine 2" (take the drivers side engine mount bolt off, and unbolt the fan shroud). Slide the starter back, rotate the pinion end up and out of the bell housing. Then turn the starter around between the header pipes and nose it out between the header pipes and bell housing being careful not to damage transmission cooling lines.  Oh yeah, take the kickdown linkage pivot out.  Slide down and out.  What a pain.

Ray

[twodko]

Yeah, but you did it! 

[Bandit360]

Yeah, but you did it! 

Yes I did!  And if I ever have to do it again, I'll be able to do it in a quarter of the time.

[fy469rtse]

It's fun isn't it, sorry we've all been there
But like you said next time will ba a lot quicker 

[myk]

The things we do for love...

[fy469rtse]

Myk, lol 
you don't even have headers yet, forwarned friend