News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

440 Six-Pack Problems

Started by Jvz, September 21, 2014, 02:37:32 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Jvz

I just completed assembling a 440 Six-Pack Motor for my 1972 Charger and
have a few questions.

It's a 1967 block bored .030 over. All parts were purchased new back in 2007
from PAW that is now out of business.

It's a newer Six Pack set-up with 3 Holly 2 barrel carburetors on a Edelbrock manifold.

The other specs are:  Steel crank, Speed Pro Pistons, Edelbrock aluminum performer rpm heads,
Hughes roller rocker arms, Mopar hydraulic lifters.

As for the cam, I don't know the specs, (this sucks, as I have no paper work and there were no markings on the cam)
When I ordered the motor I asked for a cam that would allow it to be a performance street vehicle, around 450 HP.

I have a 727  Torqueflite transmission, 8 3/4" rear end (429 case with 3.23 gears).
The torque convertor is supposed to be 2,200 - 2,400 stall speed.

Ignition is MSD with a Pro-Billet distributor from (440 source) I currently have about 10 degrees advance @ 900 rpm.

If I put it in gear at 900 RPM the motor will die, I have to go to about (1,100 rpm in neutral) in order  to idle at 800 in gear.

1: Is my stall convertor maybe wrong or not a stall convertor at all?

When I start out, it has a low end hesitation until I get the rpm up a little, and when it shifts it dogs a bit until rpm goes up.
Once moving, if I get on it, it takes off.  I have a Facet Gold Flow electric fuel pump I'm using from my old (383/ 4 barrel motor)

2:  Could the Six-Pack set up be fuel starved?

When I measure manifold vacuum while revving the engine I read about 12 to 15 on the vacuum meter.
Outboard carbs on a Six-Pack are operated by vacuum.

3: Could the cam be to big for a Six-Pack set up?  It also lopes quite a bit at idle.

Temperature on the motor runs very high, it gets up to 215 degrees very fast. I have a high volume water pump,
new seven blade clutch fan and had a new 180 thermostat, that I took out to see if that was the problem, it heated slower,
but still reached 215 and that's when I shut it down. The radiator ran fine with the old 383 motor but I understand
high compression engines run hotter. I'm not using coolant yet, just water as I'm breaking in the motor.

Any help or thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

John

c00nhunterjoe

Make sure you have the correct preload on the lifters. Verify base and total timing, its going to probably want more initial then what you have given it. Try 15-16. What radiator is in the car?

Jvz

Thank's I'll check those things out.
jvz