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Any tips how to get the body lines straight?

Started by bobfist, September 13, 2014, 01:37:45 PM

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bobfist

Any tips how to get the body lines straight when sanding?


www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

hemi-hampton

Run tape along body line. LEON.

P.S. Pic below.


Patronus

use like 4-5 layers of alternating color tape. Use it as a benchmark for filler. Sand until you hit the tape. Pull it and tape off the bondo with 2 layers. Then sand till you hit the tape and vola' yer done.
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

bill440rt

Tape. Plus guide coat.

Blocking. Tape. Blocking..Tape..blocking...  more tape....   and blocking.............  :whistling:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Indygenerallee

If you want a showcar shine you gotta put in the time...  :icon_smile_big:
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

Ryan.C

trying to get the body lines straight is the hold up with my car right now. I am using the tape method as described above, but it really is easier said than done. Its a very time consuming process.
There are few problems in life that cannot be solved with C-4.

bobfist

Thanks for all the answers.
Yes it seems like this will be the end to my build, i dont think i can do this bodywork myself.
I knew this day would come, my dad was the guy who could handle bodywork.
www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

jaak

Quote from: bill440rt on September 13, 2014, 10:16:05 PM
Tape. Plus guide coat.

Blocking. Tape. Blocking..Tape..blocking...  more tape....   and blocking.............  :whistling:

Then more tape, more blocking!

I did mine the same as everyone else did use tape on body lines. Another trick I use along with this is, I like to use different colors of hardener with my filler on each side of the bodyline. For example, I will use red hardener to mix my filler above the bodyline, then use blue below... It gives u a visual contrast to really see your line.

Jason

Patronus

'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

bobfist

Ill give it a try
If not the car will be for sale shortly, dont have the spark anymore
www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

PlainfieldCharger

Quote from: jaak on September 14, 2014, 12:21:28 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on September 13, 2014, 10:16:05 PM
Tape. Plus guide coat.

Blocking. Tape. Blocking..Tape..blocking...  more tape....   and blocking.............  :whistling:

Then more tape, more blocking!

I did mine the same as everyone else did use tape on body lines. Another trick I use along with this is, I like to use different colors of hardener with my filler on each side of the bodyline. For example, I will use red hardener to mix my filler above the bodyline, then use blue below... It gives u a visual contrast to really see your line.


Jason

Did you happen to take a pic of that? I would love to see a visual :2thumbs:

bill440rt

Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 15, 2014, 03:33:46 PM
Quote from: jaak on September 14, 2014, 12:21:28 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on September 13, 2014, 10:16:05 PM
Tape. Plus guide coat.

Blocking. Tape. Blocking..Tape..blocking...  more tape....   and blocking.............  :whistling:

Then more tape, more blocking!

I did mine the same as everyone else did use tape on body lines. Another trick I use along with this is, I like to use different colors of hardener with my filler on each side of the bodyline. For example, I will use red hardener to mix my filler above the bodyline, then use blue below... It gives u a visual contrast to really see your line.


Jason

Did you happen to take a pic of that? I would love to see a visual :2thumbs:


:shruggy:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,14564.0.html
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

c00nhunterjoe

My car looks pretty straight after 5 beers.  :cheers:

PlainfieldCharger

I am just thinking this out loud.  So where the tape is at it causes a hard line as it is not removed where you sand.  :scratchchin: Then do the same to the other side. Do you always add some filler? Do the panels come with the lines intact that you are trying to keep/preserve? Newbie on body work..

charge69

I cannot really answer your question, Plainfield as my friend, who is an artist with a welder, would not let me, as a complete "newby" to bodywork, let me touch the car when he prepped it for paint. I did watch him do a lot of it and he used the tape method also.

I was able to use all the original metal from the doors forward on my Charger but , in the rear, the only things original on it are the trunk lid, the inner wheelwells and all but the outer 3 to 4 inches of the outer wheel wells and the (what do you call it? the roll pan, I guess.).  Everything was replaced and spot welded back on. I will say the rear frame rails were in fantastic shape, just a little surface rust. When I say everything, I mean everything! I'll include a picture of it early in the restoration stage!

The first picture of the passenger side shows the body line better than the picture of the other side but, they are both done pretty nicely! I know it must be a daunting challenge for a "Newby" to bodywork but, take your time and it will come out fine!





This picture doesn't show the body lines as well probably because of the lighting and paint. It is there and very noticeable in person.


AND this is a lot earlier in the restoration!


Patronus

Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 15, 2014, 06:38:39 PM
I am just thinking this out loud.  So where the tape is at it causes a hard line as it is not removed where you sand.  :scratchchin: Then do the same to the other side. Do you always add some filler? Do the panels come with the lines intact that you are trying to keep/preserve? Newbie on body work..

The tape forms the shoulder for you to screed off the bondo to. It dictates height. I usually tape off along the bottom of the body line. (X5) Then apply filler along it the width of your spreader. (5-6") then block it until the tape just starts to show. Carefully pull the tape. Now you'll have an edge all along the panel. Then tape off the top, fill the bottom just like the top, sand, remove tape, viola' , don't cut yourself. You can get every line like this, even the intermediate ones along the bottom of the door. Try it. It's the taping that may take you the longest. Get it right the first time, even if it takes an hour or two. Don't forget to prep for your filler first, like 50g. Something rough for the filler to stick to.
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

hemi-hampton

Lots of tape & bondo used on these quarters. were the waviest 1/4's I ever seen. :brickwall: :flame:

hemi-hampton


jaak

Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 15, 2014, 03:33:46 PM
Quote from: jaak on September 14, 2014, 12:21:28 PM


I did mine the same as everyone else did use tape on body lines. Another trick I use along with this is, I like to use different colors of hardener with my filler on each side of the bodyline. For example, I will use red hardener to mix my filler above the bodyline, then use blue below... It gives u a visual contrast to really see your line.


Jason

Did you happen to take a pic of that? I would love to see a visual :2thumbs:

Finally found a pic of one of my doors while I was doing body work on the 69. This pics shows using 2 different hardener colors.



Door a few hours after painting...



Jason

Patronus

I dont have any pics with filler
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

PlainfieldCharger

Quote from: jaak on September 16, 2014, 09:43:17 PM
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 15, 2014, 03:33:46 PM
Quote from: jaak on September 14, 2014, 12:21:28 PM


I did mine the same as everyone else did use tape on body lines. Another trick I use along with this is, I like to use different colors of hardener with my filler on each side of the bodyline. For example, I will use red hardener to mix my filler above the bodyline, then use blue below... It gives u a visual contrast to really see your line.


Jason
Thanks Jason, That is what I was looking for. Looking at rotisserie's right now..


Did you happen to take a pic of that? I would love to see a visual :2thumbs:

Finally found a pic of one of my doors while I was doing body work on the 69. This pics shows using 2 different hardener colors.



Door a few hours after painting...



Jason


Monziac

I used a 3 ft metal ruler from Lowes.  I lightly clamped the ruler to one end and the other then attached sand paper to a wet sanding block.  My problem with the tape was that as the sand paper hit the tape it would destroy it and just made a mess and was very aggrivating.  The metal ruler didn't budge and allowed me to quickly create that sharp line.  Then it was a matter of smoothign it out with surfacer primer etc....  -Jon

timmycharger

Quote from: Patronus on September 16, 2014, 08:35:33 PM
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on September 15, 2014, 06:38:39 PM
I am just thinking this out loud.  So where the tape is at it causes a hard line as it is not removed where you sand.  :scratchchin: Then do the same to the other side. Do you always add some filler? Do the panels come with the lines intact that you are trying to keep/preserve? Newbie on body work..

The tape forms the shoulder for you to screed off the bondo to. It dictates height. I usually tape off along the bottom of the body line. (X5) Then apply filler along it the width of your spreader. (5-6") then block it until the tape just starts to show. Carefully pull the tape. Now you'll have an edge all along the panel. Then tape off the top, fill the bottom just like the top, sand, remove tape, viola' , don't cut yourself. You can get every line like this, even the intermediate ones along the bottom of the door. Try it. It's the taping that may take you the longest. Get it right the first time, even if it takes an hour or two. Don't forget to prep for your filler first, like 50g. Something rough for the filler to stick to.

Are you saying 5 layers of tape? Im going to be doing this in a couple of weeks and I like the tape idea.

charge69

Good idea, Monziac.  Do you have any pictures of you during the process?

bobfist

thanks for all the tips ad answers!
I will give it a try!

This is the final thing to get the car done
www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

Patronus

Yes, depending on which tape you use. The more you tape the sharper the line. I like to start with the hi-po green tape from 3m. Then alternate with blue or tan tape.
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

don duick

I tried the tape also and I found it difficult to get a straight line. It takes skill and a lot of practice. I am not a body guy. On the doors and front fenders I used an aluminium flat bar strip which is perfectly straight. I clamped this strip onto the panel and ran my speedfile along this strip to get a straight line. The rear quarters I had no choice but to use the tape took me about 10 attempts before I got an acceptable line.

Cncguy

Quote from: bobfist on September 14, 2014, 11:54:56 AM
Thanks for all the answers.
Yes it seems like this will be the end to my build, i dont think i can do this bodywork myself.
I knew this day would come, my dad was the guy who could handle bodywork.

Quit being a perfectionist, get it as good as you can and paint it. Not everyone needs a world class show car.

bobfist

I have to ask
Do you guys just lay one layer of tape or many to get the hight?

www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

hemi-hampton

I'll usually use 1 layer of 3/4" tape & then sometimes 1 or 2 layers of 1 1/2"  over that. LEON.

JB400

Is this character line really that badly distorted that it needs to be sculpted on the reproduction panels?  Or, is it just the areas between the character lines?

bobfist

ok bec i tried with one layer, but it seams to "low"


Quote from: hemi-hampton on September 18, 2014, 03:24:56 PM
I'll usually use 1 layer of 3/4" tape & then sometimes 1 or 2 layers of 1 1/2"  over that. LEON.
www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

Dino

Quote from: bobfist on September 18, 2014, 03:42:27 PM
ok bec i tried with one layer, but it seams to "low"


Quote from: hemi-hampton on September 18, 2014, 03:24:56 PM
I'll usually use 1 layer of 3/4" tape & then sometimes 1 or 2 layers of 1 1/2"  over that. LEON.

Use as many as you need, whatever works to get the job done.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Patronus

Im right there with ya
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Lord Warlock

Wish I'd tried the 5 layer instead of just a 1 layer, tried it numerous times without success on the front fender in front of the wheel well.  It did work pretty well on the back fender though.  Think the 1 layer of tape just didn't build up a sufficient line and it would keep sanding off when blocking.  Finally just said I'd worry about it in the future as that one fender had postponed completion for over two years, car had been hit before I got it and it was repaired well but I took it all off when stripping the paint off.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.