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Air conditioning (quick help)

Started by Ranger Max, September 11, 2014, 05:23:29 PM

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Ranger Max

I was upgrading my ac to 134.
Looking at a few of the compressors used in 'kits' I found one on eBay that was reasonable and ends soon:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanden-A-C-Air-Conditioning-Compressor-R134a/251637153870?_trksid=p2050601.c100272.m3467&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140813112422%26meid%3D52836dc7a5444013b608b22f6e7d547a%26pid%3D100272%26prg%3D20140813112422%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D251637153870%26clkid%3D462171395248260054&_qi=RTM1562569

I went to the sanden site and found that is the U4627 is in the SD7H15 family
Compressor Family:   SD7H15
Style:   HD
Mount Type:   Ear 8 Long
Ear ID:   83.3
Refrigerant:   R134A
Displacement:   155.00
Rotation Direction:   CW
Oil Qty (cc):   300
Cylinder Head:   JD
Port Angle:   V
Port Clocking:   12:00
Head Port Style:   3/4X7/8
Rotor Size:   125
Rotor Groove:   A2
Gauge Line
to First Groove:   23.80
Gauge Line
to Middle Groove:   0.00
Gauge Line
to End Groove:   39.55
Coil Voltage:   12
Connector:   1 Wire Male Packard #12065171

Other compressors listed on http://bouchillonperformance.com for 6664 is the SD5H14 family
Compressor Family:   SD5H14
Style:   HD
Mount Type:   Ear 8 Long
Ear ID:   83.3
Refrigerant:   R134A
Displacement:   131.00
Rotation Direction:   CW
Oil Qty (cc):   210
Cylinder Head:   FL
Port Angle:   V
Port Clocking:   12:00
Head Port Style:   3/4X7/8
Rotor Size:   132
Rotor Groove:   A2
Gauge Line
to First Groove:   23.80
Gauge Line
to Middle Groove:   0.00
Gauge Line
to End Groove:   39.55
Coil Voltage:   12
Connector:   1 Wire Male Bullet

The only difference I see is the displacement. Not sure if that would make a difference.
68 Charger with factory air
Could I use this one for sale on eBay and save a few bucks? (kits are $225 + shipping)

(got about 4 hours and thanks for any input)

A383Wing

you can use your OE compressor if ya want, it does not care what refrigerant is inside

Ranger Max


Ranger Max


A383Wing

I want AC in the Daytona...but no money to do it with

Pete in NH

The original RV-2 compressor is a little over 10 cubic inches in displacement. If the numbers you listed for the Sanden's displacement is in cubic centimeters. The U4627 comes closest at 9.3 cubic inches. That displacement volume is the ability of the compressor to move refrigerant around the system. Too small and the cooling will suffer.

I personally would stay with the original RV-2, it is one of the best compressors ever made. Yes, I know it's big, heavy and tends to vibrate. But, it's cast iron construction and internal pressure lubrication system makes it very rugged and it will be running long after newer aluminum compressors have ground themselves into aluminum powder. The new compressors are dependent on refrigerant flow to carry the lubricating oil internally, low refrigerant levels and they suffer in lubrication.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Ranger Max on September 11, 2014, 05:23:29 PM
I was upgrading my ac to 134.

Many, myself included, would consider that a downgrade.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Pete in NH

About only thing R-134A has going for it is that you can buy it over the counter with no restrictions. Converting an R-12 system to R-134A is not a simple task or inexpensive to do it properly and your reward is a system that often doesn't work as well as it originally did.

To me it's well worth getting your 609 card to buy R-12 and keep these old systems as designed.  The R-12 factory system in my 71 will freeze you right out of the car if you want it to. I wouldn't think of converting it to R-134A unless there was simply no R-12 available, at all. Original, real R-12 is still out there, just get your 609 certification, which you can do on line.