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Cost to build a garage ?

Started by Daytona R/T SE, September 06, 2014, 03:50:46 PM

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Daytona R/T SE

I've been contemplating having a garage built.


I've received two bids so far.

The size is 24 X 40

8 foot walls

Two 16 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

Two 9 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

One walk in door.

Architectural style shingles.

Vinyl siding.

Concrete floor.

Bare shell, with the doors installed.

No garage door openers.

No windows.

No electric.

No plumbing...



One bid was $25,500

The other was $27,500


Thoughts ?  :scratchchin:


A383Wing

sounds about right.....did ya consider one of them aluminum canopy's and enclose it yerself?

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: A383Wing on September 06, 2014, 04:49:18 PM
did ya consider one of them aluminum canopy's and enclose it yerself?

No...

I need another garage.

Not a metallic tent. :slap:

:smilielol:

XS29L9Bxxxxxx

That doesn't sound redicuously priced at all.

DAY CLONA

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 03:50:46 PM
I've been contemplating having a garage built.


I've received two bids so far.

The size is 24 X 40

8 foot walls

Two 16 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

Two 9 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

One walk in door.

Architectural style shingles.

Vinyl siding.

Concrete floor.

Bare shell, with the doors installed.

No garage door openers.

No windows.

No electric.

No plumbing...



One bid was $25,500

The other was $27,500


Thoughts ?  :scratchchin:






Around here, you'd be double that price

Indygenerallee

I had one built three years ago, 40x64, 14 foot ceilings, three 12x12 insulated garage doors, one entry door, steel building (basically big pole barn), concrete, full electrical, all I did was move my stuff in $40,000
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

68X426

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 03:50:46 PM

One bid was $25,500

The other was $27,500

Thoughts ?  :scratchchin:

Those are great prices in my neighborhood (Northern California vs Southern Illinois).  I am working on bids at this very moment, very similar in size and type to yours, and we can't do it for under $40,000.  With no features left to cut, we figure on adding back in the plumbing, electric, and windows, and will come in at about $48k-52k.

Out here everything is discussed as dollars per square foot.  Your quotes are between $26.50 and $28.50 a foot.  That's a hell of a deal for what basics you described.  Here the basics are $42 to $44 a foot.  Adding more features adds more per foot, so we are looking at near $50 here.  I'd be very pleased with your quoted per foot price.





The 12 Scariest Words in the English Language:
We are Here from The Government and
We Want to Help You.

1968 Plymouth Road Runner, Hemi and much more
2013 Dodge Challenger RT, Hemi, Plum Crazy
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1968 Dodge Charger, 318, not much else
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1966 Dodge Van, /6, slow

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Indygenerallee on September 06, 2014, 05:39:43 PM
I had one built three years ago, 40x64, 14 foot ceilings, three 12x12 insulated garage doors, one entry door, steel building (basically big pole barn), concrete, full electrical, all I did was move my stuff in $40,000

:coolgleamA:

I'm looking into the steel buildings next.


Indygenerallee

Here are the folks that put mine up they are Amish they have a factory and make their own siding so it keeps costs down, Very happy with it they have built almost every metal building here in southwest Indiana, at the time they had about 30 crews and they had the pole barn done erected, concrete poured and finished in four days
including all the electrical.  http://graberpost.rtrk.com/?scid=1488651&kw=9674119&pub_cr_id=7363944028
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

daveco

"Thoughts ?  scratchchin"
Just write the check.
Joy x big garage = more joy. :icon_smile_cool:
R/Tree

NHCharger

I see you're in southern Illinois. Do they require frost walls there or are you building a slab on grade?
Trussed roof? Scissor trusses? Framed roof?
2x4 or 2x6 studs. 16" or 24" O.C.?
If it's a regular truss roof you might want to consider 10' studs. The cost increase would be minimal. Your talking 130 studs, 8 sheets of plywood, 3 sq. of siding. total of $500.00 materials.few hundred in labor.
Might want to make one overhead door 8' high.
72 Charger- Base Model
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79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

Mopar4me

I built a 24x32 last year slab on grade with a 16x7 insulated garage door,door opener 36x80 insulated service door, 36x60 window with steel siding, architectural shingles, insulated walls/ceiling, and finished walls with OSB board last year for 15k. That I built. So I also would say your estimate's are pretty reasonable too.

Daytona R/T SE

To be clear,

I'm not building another workshop at this point.

I'm just interested in secure, dry storage at home.

So that I can stop renting a barn and a storage unit for my junk.

And so that I can get the excess crap out of the workshop I already have.

For example:

I don't need my engine crane and my empty rotisserie in my garage all the time, but I'd like to have a handy place to keep them here at home.

The reason I specified insulated doors is so that if in the future I decide to finish the new garage out, I wouldn't have to replace the doors to insulate it.

It would seem that prices are MUCH higher elsewhere in the country.

Around here, my place would be lucky to bring $125,000 if I were to try to sell it.

I wonder what a house on a half acre with an attached garage and a workshop out back would bring in

California, or on the east coast ?  :scratchchin:

By the time I put electric and a few lights in it, I'd have close to $30,000 in a basic, bare walled four car garage.

Seems high to me.    :shruggy:




Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Indygenerallee on September 06, 2014, 06:33:56 PM
Here are the folks that put mine up they are Amish they have a factory and make their own siding so it keeps costs down, Very happy with it they have built almost every metal building here in southwest Indiana, at the time they had about 30 crews and they had the pole barn done erected, concrete poured and finished in four days
including all the electrical.  http://graberpost.rtrk.com/?scid=1488651&kw=9674119&pub_cr_id=7363944028

Thanks !

:2thumbs:

I'll check that out.  :coolgleamA:


Mopar Nut

That's sounds like a deal, I was given a quote of $42,000 for a 40' x 35' shop on a slab with a 20' ceiling.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Mytur Binsdirti

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 03:50:46 PM
I've been contemplating having a garage built.


I've received two bids so far.

The size is 24 X 40

8 foot walls

Two 16 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

Two 9 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

One walk in door.

Architectural style shingles.

Vinyl siding.

Concrete floor.

Bare shell, with the doors installed.

No garage door openers.

No windows.

No electric.

No plumbing...



One bid was $25,500

The other was $27,500


Thoughts ?  :scratchchin:






First off, make it 30' X 50'. You'll be glad you did. The extra width will allow two cars side by side to open doors fully and the extra depth allows 2 cars deep with benches, tool boxes, compressor and still gives you plenty of walk around room. If you go with the extra width, dump the 16' wide door and go with two separate 8' wide doors because it will allow more space between the cars. 8'-0" tall doors aren't a bad thing to have either. You'll also need 12' ceilings for a future lift.

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on September 07, 2014, 04:39:10 AM
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 03:50:46 PM
I've been contemplating having a garage built.


I've received two bids so far.

The size is 24 X 40

8 foot walls

Two 16 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

Two 9 X 7 insulated overhead doors.

One walk in door.

Architectural style shingles.

Vinyl siding.

Concrete floor.

Bare shell, with the doors installed.

No garage door openers.

No windows.

No electric.

No plumbing...



One bid was $25,500

The other was $27,500


Thoughts ?  :scratchchin:






First off, make it 30' X 50'. You'll be glad you did. The extra width will allow two cars side by side to open doors fully and the extra depth allows 2 cars deep with benches, tool boxes, compressor and still gives you plenty of walk around room. If you go with the extra width, dump the 16' wide door and go with two separate 8' wide doors because it will allow more space between the cars. 8'-0" tall doors aren't a bad thing to have either. You'll also need 12' ceilings for a future lift.


Quoting myself here:



"To be clear,

I'm not building another workshop at this point.

I'm just interested in secure, dry storage at home.

So that I can stop renting a barn and a storage unit for my junk.

And so that I can get the excess crap out of the workshop I already have."

;)

Homerr

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 09:28:34 PM
....
It would seem that prices are MUCH higher elsewhere in the country.

Around here, my place would be lucky to bring $125,000 if I were to try to sell it.

I wonder what a house on a half acre with an attached garage and a workshop out back would bring in

California, or on the east coast ?  :scratchchin:

By the time I put electric and a few lights in it, I'd have close to $30,000 in a basic, bare walled four car garage.

Seems high to me.    :shruggy:

Be thankful for the $25-30k prices you're talking about!

I bought a house in Seattle 14 months ago, was looking for one with at least an oversized one-car garage that a Charger could be worked on.  Plan B was to find a house without at garage and enough room to build one.  

So I looked in to prices - a metal 20'x24'X8' on a slab, no electrics or insul was starting at $30k assuming I had a flat area and no complications.  The conversation changed to $40k for the same in wood frame on a concrete stem wall (with slab floor), and $60k if I wanted it insulated and some lights.  Accessory dwelling units (ADU) are allowed in Seattle, an apartment above the garage for renting out, but the total garage + ADU floor space is limited to 800sf.  I looked in to that and with the most basic finishes It was $120k.  

I toured a 20'x20' garage with apartment above done very nicely by a local firm.  It's all eco friendly and has solar panels.  Eye-watering $400k price tag.  
http://www.ventanabuilds.com/SeattleCottageAddition.htm

In the end we found a dated 1950's ranch, 1150sf + a full basement, with a detached 780sf 2-car with shop space for $440k and were thrilled to pay that amount given the market.

Feel better now?   :pity:


Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Homerr on September 07, 2014, 08:41:52 AM
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 06, 2014, 09:28:34 PM
....
It would seem that prices are MUCH higher elsewhere in the country.

Around here, my place would be lucky to bring $125,000 if I were to try to sell it.

I wonder what a house on a half acre with an attached garage and a workshop out back would bring in

California, or on the east coast ?  :scratchchin:

By the time I put electric and a few lights in it, I'd have close to $30,000 in a basic, bare walled four car garage.

Seems high to me.    :shruggy:

Be thankful for the $25-30k prices you're talking about!

I bought a house in Seattle 14 months ago, was looking for one with at least an oversized one-car garage that a Charger could be worked on.  Plan B was to find a house without at garage and enough room to build one.  

So I looked in to prices - a metal 20'x24'X8' on a slab, no electrics or insul was starting at $30k assuming I had a flat area and no complications.  The conversation changed to $40k for the same in wood frame on a concrete stem wall (with slab floor), and $60k if I wanted it insulated and some lights.  Accessory dwelling units (ADU) are allowed in Seattle, an apartment above the garage for renting out, but the total garage + ADU floor space is limited to 800sf.  I looked in to that and with the most basic finishes It was $120k.  

I toured a 20'x20' garage with apartment above done very nicely by a local firm.  It's all eco friendly and has solar panels.  Eye-watering $400k price tag.  
http://www.ventanabuilds.com/SeattleCottageAddition.htm

In the end we found a dated 1950's ranch, 1150sf + a full basement, with a detached 780sf 2-car with shop space for $440k and were thrilled to pay that amount given the market.

Feel better now?   :pity:


Wow   :o

Around here...

Your "new" place would be about $100K to $125K, depending on condition, and size of the yard.


For $440,000...

You could buy an old farm house and about 100 or so acres of land.

With several out buildings...

A bunch of timber ground...

And a pond.

 :scratchchin:

What I've learned here, is prices are wildly different depending on location.  :scratchchin:

Looking into the steel buildings next.

I guess I get to deal with another "Salesman"  :brickwall:




b5blue

Have you looked into S.I.P construction? Structural Insulated Panel can come with cement board (Like "Hardy board") exterior and similar engineered roofing panels with steel or aluminum. Built on slab it would go up quickly and offer a well insulated sealed construction. Your build is so very simple it's a perfect option.  :2thumbs: (You and some friends could do much of it yourself.)

Homerr

Heh, yeah, city living is expensive.  But I get paid in dollars, not goats and chickens.   :P


Our lot is 6000sf and in a nice neighborhood.


RiverRaider

Hello,
Have you looked at Quon-set huts?  If you don't mind the way they look they may be a cost savings.
Some locations may not permit them, but usually less expensive to build and property taxes are a little less
compared to standard steel or wood buildings.
RiverRaider

My first Charger was a Stock Car.

stripedelete

24 x 40 x 8 ?   Build it yourself.


Aero426

Quote from: NHCharger on September 06, 2014, 07:48:47 PM
I see you're in southern Illinois. Do they require frost walls there or are you building a slab on grade?
Trussed roof? Scissor trusses? Framed roof?
2x4 or 2x6 studs. 16" or 24" O.C.?
If it's a regular truss roof you might want to consider 10' studs. The cost increase would be minimal. Your talking 130 studs, 8 sheets of plywood, 3 sq. of siding. total of $500.00 materials.few hundred in labor.
Might want to make one overhead door 8' high.

These are good questions.

If you want to insulate someday, think about 2 x 6 wall studs.      
On my ceiling, my standard quote was wall ties 48" apart.   I upgraded to 24" on center.
What is the material used for the side walls?   I paid extra for OSB.   Not all quotes will include this.
I got a pair of slider windows, one for each side to get some air moving through.  
You might think about upgrading to a higher quality shingle to extend the life of the roof up front.

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Homerr on September 07, 2014, 09:57:21 AM
Heh, yeah, city living is expensive.  But I get paid in dollars, not goats and chickens.   :P


Our lot is 6000sf and in a nice neighborhood.



Apparently...

My goats and chickens will buy a lot more than your dollars. ;) :smilielol:


Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Aero426 on September 07, 2014, 11:06:35 AM
Quote from: NHCharger on September 06, 2014, 07:48:47 PM




If you want to insulate someday, think about 2 x 6 wall studs.      
On my ceiling, my standard quote was wall ties 48" apart.   I upgraded to 24" on center.
What is the material used for the side walls?   I paid extra for OSB.   Not all quotes will include this.
I got a pair of slider windows, one for each side to get some air moving through.  
You might think about upgrading to a higher quality shingle to extend the life of the roof up front.

Doug,



The lower price quote I got was for ties 48" apart.

The higher quote was for 24" on center.

Both quotes included OSB all the way around, and 30 year architectural shingles.

Dutch lap vinyl siding.

The 2 X 6 side walls would be a good idea, for extra insulation,

But my current shop is 2 X 4 studs, insulated.

I have no problem heating or cooling my current set up, for what I think is a reasonable cost, so I was going to mimic it on the next building.


I'm glad you responded to this Doug, since your garage was an inspiration to me on this project.

It just needs to be a little deeper and a little wider for me.

;)

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: stripedelete on September 07, 2014, 10:45:08 AM
24 x 40 x 8 ?   Build it yourself.



I would love to,

I have the skills...

Been there,

Done that.

For others.

Many times.

For free.

But...

Now, time is hard to come by...

And getting ANYBODY to get up off of their asses and actually help ME is simply impossible.

:brickwall: :brickwall::brickwall:

twodko

2x6 framing is a must have for many reasons.  :Twocents:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Homerr

If you really want to see some examples built, get ideas, etc. - garagejournal.com forums are a great resource.

A383Wing

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 07, 2014, 01:40:49 PM

And getting ANYBODY to get up off of their asses and actually help ME is simply impossible.

:brickwall: :brickwall::brickwall:

With my back issues, I can supervise...I just ask for pizza as payment   :D

Old Moparz

Can't help with pricing, I've been out of that loop too long.  :shruggy:

I did read what you are building & wondered if you plan on running electric or water to it, maybe at a later date? Even if you are sure you aren't using it as a shop, it would be a good idea to stub several conduits up through the slab & have them terminate outside close to the building. Cap both ends of each one & you won't have to worry about cutting or drilling later.  :Twocents:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Old Moparz on September 08, 2014, 12:48:15 AM
Can't help with pricing, I've been out of that loop too long.  :shruggy:

I did read what you are building & wondered if you plan on running electric or water to it, maybe at a later date? Even if you are sure you aren't using it as a shop, it would be a good idea to stub several conduits up through the slab & have them terminate outside close to the building. Cap both ends of each one & you won't have to worry about cutting or drilling later.  :Twocents:

It will have electric right away.

It just isn't included in the bids I've received.

Aero426

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 07, 2014, 01:30:10 PM


I'm glad you responded to this Doug, since your garage was an inspiration to me on this project.

It just needs to be a little deeper and a little wider for me.

;)

I agree.   Mine is 36 x 22 and I could use 2 feet in either direction (38 X 24) to make it work better for me.    I think your size is spot on.    I have a small junky shed I should have taken down and applied that space to the garage instead to get the max square footage allowed.    

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: Aero426 on September 08, 2014, 02:15:26 PM
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 07, 2014, 01:30:10 PM


I'm glad you responded to this Doug, since your garage was an inspiration to me on this project.

It just needs to be a little deeper and a little wider for me.

;)

I agree.   Mine is 36 x 22 and I could use 2 feet in either direction to make it work better for me.    I think your size is spot on.    I have a small junky shed I should have taken down and applied that space to the garage instead to get the max square footage allowed.     

Bigger is always better.  ;) :cheers:

el dub

Maybe try this.
entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem

AKcharger

This might sound ridiculous, but have you thought of looking for another place that Already has a big garage/barn built?  Might be an answer

Daytona R/T SE

Quote from: AKcharger on September 09, 2014, 12:14:41 PM
This might sound ridiculous, but have you thought of looking for another place that Already has a big garage/barn built?  Might be an answer

I thought of that.

But the best solution would be to off my collection of junk all together. :eek2:

John_Kunkel

Same thing as the OP except 45' X 24', stucco exterior, power and door openers cost me $25k in 1998 so I'd say that's a good price today.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Daytona R/T SE

I pulled the trigger tonight on the 24 X 40. :eek2:

It's going to be several hundred dollars cheaper than originally quoted. :coolgleamA:

Apparently... :scratchchin:

There's a coupon ?  :shruggy:

:smilielol:

green69rt

just a thought,  add two feet to the height..  I really don't know what it would cost but it add a lot of extra space vs moving the walls out....

Aero426

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on September 17, 2014, 10:48:04 PM
I pulled the trigger tonight on the 24 X 40. :eek2:

It's going to be several hundred dollars cheaper than originally quoted. :coolgleamA:

Apparently... :scratchchin:

There's a coupon ?  :shruggy:

:smilielol:
:cheers:

69_500

That is not a bad price. I was quoted $29k to do a 32x40 here on my property.

twodko

Mr. Kunkel,

If I buy another toy I'll need to park my Ram outside.........I haven't told it yet though.
I've seen those sheet metal covered pipe frame "portable" garages similar to the one you have.
I wouldn't need the RV height like yours just tall enough to park my truck under. "Standard Height"?
Are they worth the money? How do you like the one you have?

Tom
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!