My #71 K&K Daytona race tribute

[Indygenerallee]

Hmm, yeah, your turning radius would be limited a bit in back by the tires already.  I hadn't thought of that in regards to the A-arms.


I've actually thought about notching some clearance into the stock front subframes behind the shock towers for tire clearance.  Even a normal 15" wheel and tire size is enough to rub the framerail back there.


With the extreme tire size you're running in front, it looks like even the firewall becomes a potential interference spot.

Actually the tire turned like that on mine to full lock is about 2" away from the front frame rail and clears the firewall by a little over a inch.

And yes the whole drive train was raised in the car because the rear axle was raised up into the car and if they had not moved the engine and trans up into the car it would have thrown off the pinion angle, also doing that they increased ground clearance on the transmission and engine. I looked at a few pics of the rear leaf spring setup and I found a picture of a Superbird (believe the Ramo Stott car) And they cut the factory rear spring perch off and raised the mount up into the trunk pan 2" to level it out since the front leaf spring mount was moved up 2" as well so they could trim the bottom of the rear frame off so it was level with the rockers just like on the front frame rails. If you look at interior pics of the race wing cars you can see square boxes in front of the inner wheel tubs on the rear floor and that is where they raised the front spring perch into, they also welded a square plate on the bottom of the frame making a new "torque box"
Also if you look at that picture, see the odd box structure on the driver side under the dash? That was not for wheel clearance that is where the A body hood hinges were mounted on the outside of that panel.

[Highbanked Hauler]

UCAs -

If you wanna U-shape them instead of V-shape, watch out for turning clearance on the rear (closer to firewall) UCA legs.  It's tight from the factory.  There is probably more room to widen the UCA's shape towards the front of the car for the extra shock.

Gotta remember though with the drop spindle it will be moving the rim to a different position where I believe there will be even more room.
still quite a bit of room here even with my tire turned to full lock right with the stock UCA.

IMAG1964 by

The 73-up spindle geometry -

   With stock suspension and 10in. rims 4in. backspace and 275 tires my right side rubs the firewall and the inner rail. The left side just rubs the rail.

The upper ball joint is placed up higher and a bit farther inwards compared to the '69 spindle, thus tilting out the top of the wheel for more positive camber.  The spindle was intended for a UCA that didn't stick out quit as far laterally.  

From what I have seen these Magnumforce drop spindles are closer to the A body version which were not as tall as the B body version

[Indygenerallee]

Well the drive shaft tunnel and torsion bar cross member came in today from Chris Alton Chassisworks, also sent the Roll cage back hopefully the DOM cage will be here toward the end of next week. Really at a stand still until I get the cage back. 

IMAG1976 by

[Swampwing2]

I have not seen a cage failure in person yet but I have to imagine there are strong reasons why ERW is not allowed in several clubs. I have inspected a DOM cage where the cage held up fine but crash forces were too high on the driver. Sometimes you can't control everything, so it makes sense to do what you can.  I almost did not say anything about the difference, but figured it would be much more painless to find out now than later.  Glad it was a beneficial discussion.

[Indygenerallee]

Yeah, better I found out now rather than later. I guess I should have asked first but I have only welded up ERW cages in drag cars before, not road race cars.

[djcarguy]

   Great too see more progress on ya Daytona  .  i hope your still going street legal as just race or track will sure limit use an enjoyment time.  all the best on your build ,do it the way you enjoy it the most..Thanks for sharing ya build. DJ

[Indygenerallee]

DJ oh yes, It will be fully street legal, we don't have vehicle inspections here in Indiana, as long as it has turn signals and brake lights your good to go although I am going to run some small HID headlights in the grille opening where the factory turn signals would have sat (as I don't ever plan on driving at night) and run a set of motorcycle LED turn signals beside those.

[Highbanked Hauler]

Well the drive shaft tunnel and torsion bar cross member came in today from Chris Alton Chassisworks, also sent the Roll cage back hopefully the DOM cage will be here toward the end of next week. Really at a stand still until I get the cage back. 

IMAG1976 by

    Is that reinforcement short on one end or is it supposed to be offset ?

[Indygenerallee]

Al, it is centered. Most people don't realize that the motor and transmission in all passenger cars are offset to the passenger side a little to compensate for more room for the driver (mainly pedals) I will run this cross member moved over to the passenger side as well.

[Indygenerallee]

I know it's a long way away to think about, but some decals came in today I bought off Ebay they are 1982 Contingency decals granted most are not period correct
more than a few were, The UNION76, MOOG, HURST, Valvoline,Ingersoll-Rand, figured $50.00 was cheap enough for them all! I have all the ones I am currently going to use laid out, need to find the Napa Regal Ride crown, M/P, Grey-Rock brake linings,Wix filters, I guess I have plenty of time to find them!

IMAG1985 by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/phao5p]IMAG1987 by

[Indygenerallee]

My rotors came in today, best deal I had found on 11 3/4" cross drilled and slotted rotors for 73-up big spindle, Summit had them for $140.00 shipped for both, thought that was a killer deal. I am still looking at the best choices for the calipers but I am still a ways from needing those so I have some time there, Going to pick up some Timken bearings, still no sight of my Magnumforce drop spindles. I did go ahead and order a set of PST 1.03 torsion bars, I had read numerous complaints about the bars but it seemed the problem lies in the offset and they would not get the car to the factory ride height, funny as it clearly states on the PST site that these bars are made to lower the ride height which is what I need in my case, plus the $219.00 for the pair was a deal as well. Also ordered a set of XHD Mopar rear leaf springs, I also have been looking at steering boxes I noticed Borgeson makes a modded box to fit Mopars (faster ratio than even the 16:1) but I have heard problems about these I am still looking it over.

IMAG1990 by

[Stevearino]

Shopping can be fun. Can't wait to see the cage go in.

[Indygenerallee]

Me to Steve! Still have to buy about 5 8 foot tubes of DOM yet for the other bars inside and the front stub cage.

[Indygenerallee]

Well, got some more parts in today! the Magnumforce 2" drop spindles and a big thanks to Mr. Kwiatkowski for selling me a set of original Monroe racing shocks!  My DOM cage will be here Tuesday so I can start installing the cage!

IMAG1994 by

[Indygenerallee]

Got a few questions. Where was the battery kept in the car?? Only place I can see would be the passenger side floor pan in the rear seat area under that panel opposite of the rear axle cooler (that is also vented under the car)?? Also looking to see what steering column and steering wheel were used? Closest steering wheel I can find is a late 60's Ford two spoke wheel (mustang, Torino) covered in probably 10 rolls of black electric tape!

[Highbanked Hauler]

Got a few questions. Where was the battery kept in the car?? Only place I can see would be the passenger side floor pan in the rear seat area under that panel opposite of the rear axle cooler (that is also vented under the car)?? Also looking to see what steering column and steering wheel were used? Closest steering wheel I can find is a late 60's Ford two spoke wheel (mustang, Torino) covered in probably 10 rolls of black electric tape!

     65 Plymouth, the bar runs straight across .I got my wheel(cracked to death) off of epay for $25 or so. I wrapped the wheel with a piece of clothes  line and black tapped over that,but I am going to re tape it.

[Indygenerallee]

Al, Yeah I just bought one a few minutes ago. off a 68 Chrysler

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321534641800?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Mike DC]

On some NASCARS (I'm not sure about years of this whatsoever) they were putting the batteries just behind the LF wheelwell, where the E-brake pedal would be.  They had the inner sidewall there built farther inside than stock, with the hood hinge/springs mounted on the outside of it at the top.  The battery was also on the outside of that inner wall, placed down low.  I assume this location choice was probably about weight distribution. 

[Stevearino]

David, I don't know if you are friends with John Craft on Facebook or not. His handle is  Jac Hmguy. The HM stands for Holman and Moody. John is one of the foremost authorities on nascar history and race car development.  He has done several restorations and faithful recreations of cars of that era. He is mainly a Ford guy but he has a wealth of  knowledge. Also there is a guy named Tom Mooty who is a model car builder who has a photographic memory of all this stuff. He is like a savant. I suggest if you want to get in to the nitty gritty both of these guys would be of immense help. Also I don't know if you belong to a group over there called " Nascar History before 1972" but there are tons of pictures of lots of the stuff you are asking about.

By the way don't use electrical tape. Use friction tape. The glue from the electrical tape tends to ooze out and create a sticky mess.

[Indygenerallee]

Steve, Yeah I am friends with Jac on Facebook as well as all the old Nascar pages, I have found a lot of pics of the #71 on the Bobby Issac page, and yeah that had crossed my mind that the steering wheel would be pretty slimy and loose after a 90 degree day if I used the electrical tape! 

[Highbanked Hauler]

Al, Yeah I just bought one a few minutes ago. off a 68 Chrysler

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321534641800?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Yep thats the same one I got with HUGE cracks  and yes you are right friction tape would be better

[Indygenerallee]

The more I am thinking about the car I think I am going to run full door bars from the main hoop to the a pillar bars which means no opening doors! I think I will put a door on and see how well I can slide through the window. 

[Stevearino]

 

The more I am thinking about the car I think I am going to run full door bars from the main hoop to the a pillar bars which means no opening doors! I think I will put a door on and see how well I can slide through the window. 

Get out yer Dukes tapes and see how they do it.

[Indygenerallee]

  I am sure everyone would be rolling on the floor watching me get in it!!

[Indygenerallee]

I have seen a lot of these #71 cars and they did not have vent window frames (which I think looks better) make it easier (and lighter) getting rid of all the side glass and regulators. all the ones in the lineup pic appear to have no vent windows so I take it these cars would have not had any side glass whatsoever?

K&K Fleet - no 201 mph car ! by