Trying to Get it Started - Ammeter, VR Help

[Skull-1]

Okay,

So my '69 fried itself.   Cooked the battery.  I suspect a bad VR.

I want to put in a new battery, replace the VR, replace the fusible link, and see if I get power.    The dash is out being rebuilt.   Can I connect the Ammeter wires together with a bolt or electrical tape for this test?

And what is the newest VR I can use off of another 318 car at Autozone without frying my wires?   I am looking at being able to find something that is still in their computer.

[Pete in NH]

Yes, you can bolt the ammeter connections together for testing. On the voltage regulator- need to know if it's the original single field wire 69 alternator or if the system has been up dated to the 70 and later two field wire alternator and electronic regulator.If you're not sure post pictures of the back of the alternator and present voltage regulator.

[Skull-1]

Yes, you can bolt the ammeter connections together for testing. On the voltage regulator- need to know if it's the original single field wire 69 alternator or if the system has been up dated to the 70 and later two field wire alternator and electronic regulator.If you're not sure post pictures of the back of the alternator and present voltage regulator.

Will do so today.  Finally getting around to it.

Am afraid I have been using a VR from 1981 all this time.  Could explain a thing or two....

Pretty sure it is single field.   Will verify.

[Skull-1]

Yes, you can bolt the ammeter connections together for testing. On the voltage regulator- need to know if it's the original single field wire 69 alternator or if the system has been up dated to the 70 and later two field wire alternator and electronic regulator.If you're not sure post pictures of the back of the alternator and present voltage regulator.

Yes, you can bolt the ammeter connections together for testing. On the voltage regulator- need to know if it's the original single field wire 69 alternator or if the system has been up dated to the 70 and later two field wire alternator and electronic regulator.If you're not sure post pictures of the back of the alternator and present voltage regulator.

Okay.  So whoever rebuilt the engine changed it from the setup I originally had which was EI, Ballast Resistor, and an Electronic VR.     It was the black box-style.   I don't even see that on here.

And I have no idea what this thing is on the second photo...  (My Electronic Ignition box is on the wheel well by the alternator.)

[Pete in NH]

The thing in the second photo is the electronic voltage regulator for a two field wire alternator. This is the regulator Chrysler used form 1970 up through the early 80's on cats and late 80's on trucks. I would stay away from Autozone for this part. There are a lot of low quality aftermarket parts out there. They are still available from Chrysler as part number 4529794. You need to make sure the case of the regulator is grounded. Rusty bolt holes and stripped out sheet metal screws do not make for good grounds. Your problem may be as simple as a bad ground.

I can't tell for the photo of the alternator if it is a two field wire unit but it does look like a newer type.

[Skull-1]

The thing in the second photo is the electronic voltage regulator for a two field wire alternator. This is the regulator Chrysler used form 1970 up through the early 80's on cats and late 80's on trucks. I would stay away from Autozone for this part. There are a lot of low quality aftermarket parts out there. They are still available from Chrysler as part number 4529794. You need to make sure the case of the regulator is grounded. Rusty bolt holes and stripped out sheet metal screws do not make for good grounds. Your problem may be as simple as a bad ground.

I can't tell for the photo of the alternator if it is a two field wire unit but it does look like a newer type.

It has multiple wires.  I will take a better photo.


Is that VR putting out too much voltage?

I preferred my stock setup, honestly.  I could work with it.   Had lifetime warranties on my alternator and a backup so that was never an issue.   Just drop in the spare and take the other back for a replacement--free.   This is new territory to me.

[Pete in NH]

With the electronic regulator shown in picture #2 you should have one heavy wire on the output stud of the alternator and two lighter gauge wires going to the field terminals. One field terminal should have 12 volts on it with the ignition key in the run position and the other wire should go to the voltage regulator. The 1970 and up electronic regulator system is a good one and I would rather have it on the car than the stock 69 system. As I mentioned make sure the regulator is grounded well and then make sure the connector on the regulator is on tight.

Why do you want to replace the fusible link, is it open? Also, you need a voltmeter to make some measurements in the system otherwise you're just going to be guessing about why it doesn't work properly. Do you have a meter?

[Nacho-RT74]

I can't tell for the photo of the alternator if it is a two field wire unit but it does look like a newer type.

it is... closed rear and front housing, no stator visible in the middle

[Skull-1]

With the electronic regulator shown in picture #2 you should have one heavy wire on the output stud of the alternator and two lighter gauge wires going to the field terminals. One field terminal should have 12 volts on it with the ignition key in the run position and the other wire should go to the voltage regulator. The 1970 and up electronic regulator system is a good one and I would rather have it on the car than the stock 69 system. As I mentioned make sure the regulator is grounded well and then make sure the connector on the regulator is on tight.

Why do you want to replace the fusible link, is it open? Also, you need a voltmeter to make some measurements in the system otherwise you're just going to be guessing about why it doesn't work properly. Do you have a meter?

I have a meter.  I think the FL went because the car died while running.  The battery was so hot I couldn't touch it.  I think the VR went kablooey and overcharged the battery.   I have a new battery to drop in but don't want to fry it, too.

I could put it in and see if I have power...   The FL looks intact externally.....   I will also check the fuses to see what went down.

[Skull-1]

I can't tell for the photo of the alternator if it is a two field wire unit but it does look like a newer type.

it is... closed rear and front housing, no stator visible in the middle

Yep.