A little help on buying paint, please

[green69rt]

I'm starting to get supplies for painting on the old car and have a few questions.  Folks have been recommending PPG so started looking.

1.  Primer - looks like DP 40LF - GL  (grey green) or DP 50LF - GL (grey) are what I should be using.  Since the car will be F5 (medium green poly) is DP40 correct?

2.  Where to buy - I looked at Autocolor library, TCP and a local PPG dealer.  Any preference on which one to use??  If not then I will probably go local.

3. If I go local then I assume the guy behind the counter will recommend the correct hardener, reducer, etc.  Right??

4.  Type of finish coat (underneath, trunk, pass compartment) will be SS, so acrylic urethane is right for this application?

Thanks for all the help.

[hemi-hampton]

I buy from my local PPG dealer myself. LEON.

[Indygenerallee]

I use Evercoat Featherfill G2.... best high build primer IMO...excellent product

[Charger-Bodie]

I'd go with dp40. As for the paint I'd use ppg concept ss on the floor etc. and stick with ppt for the rest of the paint if you do.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

PPG is quality stuff, I would go to the PPG web site and down load all the product data sheets for what ever products you use. They will give you information on mixing ratios, reducers, and spray gun settings and tip sizes. I would not count on the local counter guy knowing how to properly handle the products, some do, many don't. PPG also has information on paint systems and what products work together to give you a final paint job. The top coat is only as good as what goes underneath it.

Also, do your homework on handling these products safely. All the urethane based products are a significant health hazard. You need to protect yourself from the isocyanates in them. This means paint suits, facemasks and respirators. Some people are very sensitive to these products others are less so. You can make yourself very sick with this stuff, so read up on it.

[green69rt]

Hi,

PPG is quality stuff, I would go to the PPG web site and down load all the product data sheets for what ever products you use. They will give you information on mixing ratios, reducers, and spray gun settings and tip sizes. I would not count on the local counter guy knowing how to properly handle the products, some do, many don't. PPG also has information on paint systems and what products work together to give you a final paint job. The top coat is only as good as what goes underneath it.

Also, do your homework on handling these products safely. All the urethane based products are a significant health hazard. You need to protect yourself from the isocyanates in them. This means paint suits, facemasks and respirators. Some people are very sensitive to these products others are less so. You can make yourself very sick with this stuff, so read up on it.

Thanks Pete,

I've been trolling the PPG site and others looking for the data sheets.   I've been pretty lazy about this till recently when I found out how much info is there.    I do have little trouble on the PPG site finding stuff, it seems mostly advertising driven, but the TCP site helps a lot, and others.  Already have a vapor mask that I need to change the filter elements on (I don't know how long they last but who wants to breath this stuff!!)  I try to be as safe as I can.  

[Pete in NH]

On the respirators, the only system really approved for use with the isocyanates is a full air hood. 3M and all the disposable respirator makers are real cagey about saying their charcoal respirators are okay to use with isocyanates. I think this likely due to product liability issues. People use charcoal based disposable respirators all the time with isocyanates but you have to be very careful with keeping track of use time. The numbers I've seen say 8 hours maximum depending on the amount of exposure. Also, there is a warning about keeping the mask in a tightly sealed plastic bag when not in use. Any time in open air comes off the 8 hour maximum life.

[green69rt]

On the respirators, the only system really approved for use with the isocyanates is a full air hood. 3M and all the disposable respirator makers are real cagey about saying their charcoal respirators are okay to use with isocyanates. I think this likely due to product liability issues. People use charcoal based disposable respirators all the time with isocyanates but you have to be very careful with keeping track of use time. The numbers I've seen say 8 hours maximum depending on the amount of exposure. Also, there is a warning about keeping the mask in a tightly sealed plastic bag when not in use. Any time in open air comes off the 8 hour maximum life.

Excellent info.  I don't know how much time I have on my existing canisters so time to get new ones.  Think I'll keep mine in a sealed baggie from now on.  Oh, and I guess I'll  look around for a paint suit (I don't look forward to wearing one in Houston!!)

[Canadian1968]

Gloves, paint suit, and mask. 

I use the 3m full face mask at work , by far the safest way to go, but for the guy doing it at home this isn't really any option.  The mask itself is $300 I belive then your need the air hoese and and valve to control the air flow, then you need a fresh air pump of some sort. Long story short your talking big $$$.

The 3m charcole filters i thought were supposed to be good for 40 hours of exposure time,  Honestly for the amount of exposure you will have for doing this job,  1 set of filters will be fine, keep them in a zip-loc when not being used as mentioned before.

Don't get yourself to worried with the MSDS stuff it will make your head spin. Just use some common sense and the basic protection as listed above.

[green69rt]

Gloves, paint suit, and mask. 

I use the 3m full face mask at work , by far the safest way to go, but for the guy doing it at home this isn't really any option.  The mask itself is $300 I belive then your need the air hoese and and valve to control the air flow, then you need a fresh air pump of some sort. Long story short your talking big $$$.

The 3m charcole filters i thought were supposed to be good for 40 hours of exposure time,  Honestly for the amount of exposure you will have for doing this job,  1 set of filters will be fine, keep them in a zip-loc when not being used as mentioned before.

Don't get yourself to worried with the MSDS stuff it will make your head spin. Just use some common sense and the basic protection as listed above.

Thanks to the Canadian brothers.  I've shot a little primer, but when I start with the top coat I do plan to take a lot more care.  Fresh respirator, hood, body suit and I will think about a fresh air face mask.  Probably won't go that far.  I have worked in the chemical industry for 40 years (Shell Chemical) so I have a feel for the driving forces behind the MSDS.  Lots of opinions on what is required and what not.   In the end, you need to do as much as you can to limit your exposure but don't be paranoid.   Good ventilation counts for a lot.

I figure I have less than 4 hours of exposure so a fresh vapor mask should be good.  If I end up dead or a mutant after shooting all my parts I'll let all you folks know!!