Road Trip to Alaska-Coffee Table Book Finally Done-thanks Cody Cole!

[Arnie Cunningham]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Here is another link.

[Homerr]

The entire route is paved, right?

I saw some blog a way back where some guy was driving from Seattle to AK and there were some washboard packed gravel stretches.

[Montreal Wing Car]

Wow, great project!
While in Alaska, please ask around for other Superbird, my old one was last seen in Alaska. Orange when it went there, original color is green, VIN RM23u0A161593!
Have a great, safe trip!
ben

[Indygenerallee]

Great to see you are going to drive it like your supposed to. When I get my Daytona I am going to drive it everywhere!

[Ghoste]

 

[taxspeaker]

Thanks guys

To bring the project up to date:
We have installed and tested the solar unit for the dashtop. It has 2-USB ports that direct output enough charge in full sunlight for a cellphone and the "always on" front GoPro camera in the front dash. We have obtained the solar panel for the back tray along with a compact battery backup that will (combined) provide enough charge/and 8 to 10 re-charges for cell phone, laptop, flashlight and GoPro battery for the time lapse 2nd Go Pro mounted on the wing.

Several people have emailed about costs and item descriptions, so I will try to give all that as we go through things.

GoalZero.com was the source for the rear solar panels/power pack using the Nomad 20 solar panel and the Yeti 150 solar generator with built in inverter to 12 volt and 110 volt. ($400).

We got the front solar panel outfit from Amazon-the Anker 14W dual port solar charger. It is 3' wide by 11" tall and fits the dash perfectly. It cost $70.

We also bought a new Cobra HHRoadtrip hand held 40-channel CB for $78 on Amazon. We wanted the 4 watt output strength and magnet mounted antenna for the roof if needed.

The wing has been micrometer measured and the case has been 3-d designed for the GoPro wing camera. Case is not yet built but is about 2 weeks from first version-we ran into some issues on solar that we have now overcome. I will have Ryan (my son) post pictures of it when it is done since he is a member here too. Camera will take shots every 5 seconds and have extended battery that I will change every 3 hours when stopping for gas. I will also change out the MicroSD card in the camera at that time. We are using 64GB micro SD cards that cost $40 at Frys.com. I plan on transferring both the live film and the 5 second photos each evening to the laptop.

Next weekend the dash will be removed and sent off for the amp gauge safety conversion, as advised by board members. No other electrical items foreseen now. I am (also following board advice) going to get a GPS that will run off of USB power as well.

Over the last week we have replaced all fuel lines with new stainless steel ones, as well as connecting hoses, pump, filter and vapor lock canister. I have ordered one of those new fuel sending units the Dixie Restoration guy is having made and that is the only weakness in the fuel system other than the carb. Carb is original, rebuilt last year and still has functioning choke and exhaust manifold heater.

We have completed planning on cooling system. Heater core and box was rebuilt last year and all hoses were replaced at that time. Radiator is now out and will be rebuilt this week. While it is out I am thinking about replacing the water pump as well-it has never been replaced. What do you guys think about the pump? I have several aluminum high flow ones on shelves in our shop, but am partial to the one from Mancini. When the radiator goes back we will again replace all antifreeze and also install some HyperLube additive. We will carry 2 gallons of pre-mixed antifreeze and 2 gallons of water in the car, as well as 2 extra belts for both fan and power steering pump.

Now for the brakes. The car has the original brakes and cylinders/rotors on it with 40,000 original miles. I still think I am going to do a 4 wheel job and go ahead and do the calipers and rear cylinders at the same time. What do you guys think-rebuild the calipers and cylinders, or replace them with new ones? While I am at it I think we better replace the master cylinder and brake lines and all fluid with that new DOT 4 fluid. I will of course repack the front wheel bearings when I do the brakes.

Once the cooling and brakes are done we will focus on suspension. Shocks are new, front end was rebuilt 2 years ago so I am inclined to leave it all alone there. Comments?

Now for the driveline. The transmission was rebuilt earlier this year and I have talked with the shop that did it about my plans. They are an old-line Chrysler shop and they don't cut corners. They say as long as I watch fluid levels (it doesn't leak) they would take it anywhere.

The engine runs fine, has no knocks, ticks or noises and does not burn any oil. My plans there are a fresh tune up, oil change along with a Hyperlube additive and go from there. Engine is not the original one, but is a 69 HiPo block about which I know nothing. The guy is dead that I got it from but compression is good and no leaks. Comments here?

Now for the rear end. It is an 8 3/4 running 3:55 gears. Several guys have suggested changing that but I don't want to-I really want to drive this car as it was in 1970 without modern stuff or changes except for safety. There is no whine or noise out of the rear. I do plan on changing the rear lube and praying!. One concern is rear wheel bearings-not sure whether I should do anything there or not.

The goal for all mechanical things to be done is mid February. I then hope in March to take it on a 250-300 mile round trip test drive for the day, sort out any problems, and then begin planning on what I will carry in the trunk for the car and for me. The plan is 600 miles each day when possible. 

The schedule is now firm. I will leave Southern Indiana on June 22 to go to Michigan-600 miles. I have to work in Bay Harbor Michigan for 3 days in June, finishing at 1:00pm on June 25. That afternoon I will head across Michigan's upper peninsula, northern Wisconsin and Minnesota, stopping the first night somewhere in northern Minnesota or maybe even Fargo, ND. The next day I will start winging it as to distance and schedule-crossing into Canada somewhere in North Dakota. I plan to start at dawn each morning and drive 4-5 hours, take a break for an hour or two in the middle of the day and drive 4-5 more hours from 4 until dark. Hope to catch a car show somewhere in Canada on June 27 or 28 and arrive in Fairbanks somewhere around June 30 or July 1. Then spend 3-4 days in Alaska and slowly work my way back via a different route down through Montana and Wyoming.

Will post again in a few weeks.
Thanks for the advice guys-keep it coming.
Bob

By the way if anyone offers you a 24' enclosed black Freedom car hauler trailer with awning and outside spotlights and custom aluminum floor and 30amp electrical system email me. They stole ours on AUgust 26th. It has "Plymouth Superbird" decals on the front and side but no car was in it thankfully.

[Arnie Cunningham]

Just a couple more ideas:

3.55s at 60 MPH is 3000 RPM approximately
600 miles at 60 is 10 hours
10 hours on 1970 seats is a loooooonnnnnggg day lol

At least you are heading North - so AC won't be as big an issue.

Allow time for conversation - every gas stop will take extra time to talk with people who are curious about the car.

I made better mileage with lower octane fuel - octane will be more of an issue when you are in the mountains.

Sounds like an epic journey - enjoy and congratulations for deciding to take it.

[taxspeaker]

Thanks arnie your advice is excellent and your trip was legendary and the basis of this trip
Bob

[Arnie Cunningham]

Cool!  Thank You,
Brennan

[Arnie Cunningham]

Pros and Cons - crossing into Canada
The great plains of North Dakota and Montana are virtually identical to the same region in Canada - flat, not much to look at.
Gas is about $5 a gallon in Canada so crossing as late as possible may be of interest - maybe near Glacier Park - it is worth seeing.
If you do decide to cross all of North Dakota I would recommend using the interstate.  The northern route (highway 2) will take you through the heart of the oil boom area.
Motel rooms are hard to get and the traffic is unusually heavy considering there is very little else out there.  It is best to avoid the area.  I 94 is clear.

[stripedelete]

How about a set of mud flaps?   It's great that you're driving it.  I am too.  But, I still avoid gravel roads.
A set of mud flaps might keep you from missing something really cool on the trip of a life time. 

[70EK2Bird]

Glacier is a great place with a cool road over the mountains called "the going to the sun road".  You will need some time, but worth the effort.  Going north out of there you cross into Canada and can go to Waterton Peace Park which is the north side of Glacier.  Cool hotel there called the Prince of Wales.  If you can stop there I am sure it would make for some cool shots with the bird.

[AKcharger]

Hi Taxspeaker!

It will be the trip of a lifetime! 

I've done the ALCAN and Marine highway a few times with my last trip this past April when we moved to Florida, some input:
- Buy the Milepost® worth every cent. They publish it every year but getting it now is fine will help planning your trip
- Parts list previously suggested is fine. The time of year you're going the road will be busy so help isn't a problem
- Road condition should be OK, chance of a cracked windshield before you're done 30% each way. Surprisingly the dead of winter has the best road conditions...snow fills in all the pot holes and no rocks/pebbles 
- May I Strongly, Strongly no really STRONGLY recommend you drive up and take the Alaska Marine Highway (ferry) back for a variety of reasons
  -- The inner passage is Gorgeous! there are sights you just can't see on the ALCAN
  -- The trip in an old car is going to be GRULING and after getting up there, no matter how enjoyable the drive up was you will
      dread the trip back...trust me. The ferry is very relaxing and an excellent way to bring you epic journey to a close
  -- No it's not cheap, but it is less than driving and paying for hotels, to say nothing of saving wear and tear and windshield
  -- You'll dock in Bellingham WA, nice drive from that part of the country back home
- I have a LOT of MOPAR connections I can turn you on to before you go...you'll be well received, maybe even get you set up with a car show 

PM me with any questions or if you need any AK tour info, I'll make sure you're taken care of!

...Oh, did I mention taking the ferry?

AK

[taxspeaker]

Thanks for the advice. I will try to stay in US through Montana on I-94-never thought of gas prices or the oil trucks in North Dakota. I would love to do the marine highway, but it takes too long and is too expensive. The Milepost-yes I will buy it! Also excellent advice to allow time at stops for questions. I go to Alaska at least once a year for work, sometimes twice and appreciate the beauty, and if the car is holding up will drive down from Fairbanks to Anchorage then back from Anchorage with a possible side trip to either Valdez or Skagway. I've been in both and think Valdez might be a little prettier-both will be hard on the Bird but that's what the trip is for.

I have thought about the mudflaps and think I will go for the Dura Coat clear application to minimize rock damage.

On a different note, we are working on a logo and website for the trip. I would love for people to help choose the logo at http://99designs.com/logo-design/vote-wncnnt (it expires Sunday the 27th). Someone here apparently talked with some TV guy who wanted to do some kind of reality show on the trip using some of my personal history to sell it but I'm not doing this for money and told him to buzz off (or something close to that). That got me thinking about doing a journal on a website with pictures, making it a whole lot easier for me on the road to update things, thus the need for a logo. I have bought the website link www.SuperbirdNorth.com and will get it going in a moth or so.

Appreciate the advice and would love some guidance on what you guys think about engine oil weight and type.
Thanks
Bob J

[ksquared]

Someone here apparently talked with some TV guy who wanted to do some kind of reality show on the trip using some of my personal history to sell it but I'm not doing this for money and told him to buzz off (or something close to that).

I'm a bit disappointed about that.  It isn't as much of somebody doing it "for the money" as opposed to sharing it with many, many more people who don't necessarily visit Aero Cars forums and might not even know about these cars or what they did and can still do.

I certainly wouldn't begrudge taxspeaker or anybody who gets a bit of monetary compensation for something they're doing.  If nothing else, it can offset any repairs or unforeseen expenses.  Maybe even pay for the ferry trip on the way back? 

[Ghoste]

I'm a bit mixed on that.  I agree it would be a great thing for us all to see I can also understand not wanting a film crew following me.
"okay listen, we need you to hold off on going over to that town because the light will be perfect here a 3:22 and we have a schedule to keep, okay great, we need you to drive over that ridge again but try to look more dramatic and remember to utter that single cuss we asked for, I understand you had no intention of stopping here that long but we are paying for this and we need things the public will want"  and so on.  I've watched enough "reality" shows get filmed around old cars to know they'd pull that kind of stuff. 

[Arnie Cunningham]

I like design 148.  I think it would look better if the word "Superbird" was all in black and the word "north" was is blue.  The inside of the wing could be switched to blue so that it is only two colors total.

As for oil, that can create a heated debate.  I prefer Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 20W-50.
http://www.penngrade1.com/zinc.aspx

440s generate a lot of heat.  Enclose one in a Superbird front clip and the heat is ridiculous.  You will probably find your hood pins too hot to touch at times.  A racing/high quality oil will handle it.

Brennan

[66FBCharger]

Any updates?

[taxspeaker]

Well-we have decided on a logo-attached below I think. We will be using it on websites and I have ordered logo t shirts/baseball caps for the trip and to give as gifts along the way for helpful or friendly people.

I am flying every day right now until Christmas as the season ramps up so no time to work on things until then. We have a tentative itinerary established up to Fairbanks but kind of loose after that. We hope to get a website up and running right after Christmas that will allow me to post pictures, videos, update on mechanical progress and a log of the trip and pre-trip mechanical updates. I need to finish up some wiring on the Cuda to get it off the lift in the shop and move the Bird over, but all the overtime right now leaves only Saturdays off. I am thinking about stopping on the way back and dropping the car in Iowa to get it repainted for the first time at the end of the trip if I can remember who the guy is in Iowa that restores the Birds. I am still hoping that the fuel sending units are ready, and am having a little trouble finding the correct master cylinder. I want to replace the pads and shoes, rebuild or replace the calipers, cylinders and hoses, and replace the master cylinder since electrical and brakes are my 2 main concerns.

Here is the tentative itinerary:
February 28 complete all mechanical upgrades, local road test based on weather
Mid March 250 mile test round-trip road trip when weather is nice from Louisville to Illinois state line and back with follower in truck and trailer for problems.
Complete problem solving from any road trip issues May 15
Second test road trip, same route, mid to late May
Depart Louisville June 22 early morning to Grand Rapids, MI for work 370 miles
June 23rd depart Grand Rapids MI at 5 pm to Bay Harbor, MI for work 200 miles
June 25th depart Bay Harbor, MI at 1:30pm after work to DUluth MN 460 miles-pictures at Mackinak Bridge, use MN 210 through MN
June 26th depart Duluth to Glendive MT (minimum) 630 miles on I94 through North Dakota
June 27th depart Glendive to Calgary 640 miles on US 2 to I-15 north to Alberta 4 to Alberta 2
June 28th depart Calgary to Fort St John 600 miles on Alberta 2 and 43
June 29th depart Ft St John to Watson Lake 600 miles on Alaska highway
June 30 Watson Lake to Burwash Landing 400 miles
July 1 Burwash Landing to Fairbanks 400 miles
This also allows 1-3 days to stop wherever I want for car show, golf or fixing the car

July 2 or 3 Fairbanks to Anchorage 360 miles
July 4 Anchorage to valdez and then delta junction with return along same general route but staying in canada until north of minnesota

thanks-I will ask my son to post up pictures of the GoPro mount for the wing.
Bob J

[Ghoste]

I like it, you should make up t-shirts or something.

[Arnie Cunningham]

Factory correct master cylinders are getting hard to find.  Try a quality reproduction and do not turn in your original as a core.  The correct lids are scarce as well.  Save yours.

[DonC1]

Gas is $ 5.00 a gallon on average in Canada.
Firearms are not allowed in.
The whole mileage system is in kilometers ie metric as is most of the country except for hardware stores where lumber is sold in 2x4's etc.
Consult the Harrison auto event list for car shows in Canada west-
http://www.autoeventlist.com/

[taxspeaker]

Here is an update of winter work:

We are still on schedule for June 22 departure from Louisville, Kentucky. Website is up at www.superbirdnorth.com but further development has been delayed for now, will restart on it in a month or so to ad a blog from me or my son Ryan and input/question areas from others, product sales, and interactive gps of car's location if possible.

Mechanical items are 80% completed in prep for trip- done to date:
-Complete brake job, master cylinder and bearing repacks
-Fuel pump, vapor separator hooked up, filter replaced, new fuel lines all from my old original new stock, new fuel tank
-Complete front end rebuild with all 4 new shocks
-Electronic ignition changeover with tune up, new coil, new wires (only non-stock change, kept original distributor)
-New mufflers replacing 45 year old originals, new exhaust manifold gaskets and heat stove to stock
-Replaced broken speedo cable, new BF goodrich tires
-Replaced all freeze plugs, leaking rear main replaced
-Replaced all heater, radiator hoses, water pump, rebuild radiator, rebuilt heater box, installed new super coolant additives

Mechanical in process or still to do:
-dash being removed this week to rebuild all gauges and isolate amp gauge with Dave Patek from club
-replace rear end lube with Brad Penn lube
-change oil with new Brad Penn 20w-50 oil
-repair radio antenna
-try to come up with fuel sending unit fix since the new ones on the board fell through
Mechanical goals I am hoping for completion by February 15

1st 240 mile round trip road test first nice weekend day feb 15-march 1. We will be running all cameras, go pro, solar power, etc
2nd 240 mile round trip road test in warm weather in late April or early may for final iron out in warm weather, again running both gopro cameras and all other systems

We have run into several issues with the GoPro wing mount and have had to re-design several time, but now ironed out. Ryan will be printing it on the 3d printer over the next several days in black-pictures to post by 1/15/15. We are also considering taking 1 of his drones to canada in the trunk to take aerial pictures-does anyone know if they can go across border or legal problems in canada?

I hope to keep the forum updated if there is any interest.
Once again thanks to everyone for all your suggestions
Bob J

[dads_69]

Hey, way cool..you have to go through where I live before Fairbanks. I live in Wasilla. Would be great to meet up a fellow member. Message me and I'll get you my info for when you are here.
Mark

[The70RT]