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Rust bullet

Started by duckmanreno, August 09, 2014, 12:13:10 PM

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duckmanreno

Not sure if this is the correct way or place to post this.

Who has used Rust Bullet and what is your opinion of it for use on the car rest?
I recently tryed a small sample on the rusty oil pan of my Power Stroke. Seems like a good product but does it really work?
22 Ford F-150 5.0 super cab FX4 hunting rig and tow vehicle
92 Toyota Tercel.  Commute Car
69 Charger 383 4 speed project car.
73 Boston Whaler Montauk

A bad day hunting beats a good day at work!

b5blue

  I tested it when doing my car. Destructive testing proved it like all other tested products can't really penetrate rust deeply. (Nothing can.)  I followed directions to the T then ground it off of test areas. Yes it bites into the rust but unless it is a VERY thin remaining layer the rust is not altered, it's just sealed off. The stuff drys hard and will not sand well even at a weeks cure. The recoat window is tricky you must allow for temp. and humid. to effect flash. Once you open the can the clock starts ticking, use it or loose it.
  I can't attest to doing filler/paint over the top as I deemed it not suitable for my needs. It did stick well to everything I coated like old paint scuffed up that went into rusty areas. It has it's uses and performs well but I compared it with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and for my needs as NOT a body repair kinda guy, Encapsulator won hands down. It feathers and sands very nicely and protects very well if thick enough coatings are used. Filler and other coatings like epoxy primer and urethane topcoats adhere fine plus it to can serve as a topcoat when needed unlike any other primer. Dealing with rust I found treating with a rust remover like OSPHO and repeating till the rust is minimal and burned to a phosphate is the only way to neutralize the problem before any coating.  :2thumbs:     

Ghoste

Was said rusty oil pan clean and dry or did it have some fluid on the outside.  (I have rusty pan on a later model vehicle myself)

duckmanreno

Quote from: Ghoste on August 11, 2014, 08:51:26 AM
Was said rusty oil pan clean and dry or did it have some fluid on the outside.  (I have rusty pan on a later model vehicle myself)
Yes it was dry and clean. No leaks. I sanded the rust and it seems to be working. And i was trying to catch this issue before it got bad. Seen pics and heard the horror stories from guys in the rust areas that the whole pan can rust thru! Now the 7.3 cornbinder is a great engine, but was not  originally designed to be in pick up trucks. Oil pan is  large and hangs down just enough that this can happen.

22 Ford F-150 5.0 super cab FX4 hunting rig and tow vehicle
92 Toyota Tercel.  Commute Car
69 Charger 383 4 speed project car.
73 Boston Whaler Montauk

A bad day hunting beats a good day at work!

Ghoste

Mine was crusty but it was okay until recently when I took it to a shop for a lube and the jackass poked a hole through it with a screwdriver to demonstrate how bad it was.  Now its seeping.

Dreamcar

I've been using Chassis Saver lately. Prepping perfectly is the key. Read the tech sheets top to bottom. Their customer service is excellent too (they will actually respond to email!).

I stripped the undercoat and paint off my inner fenders but left some of the surface rust because as it says in the litterature, CS sticks to rust better than anything else. For the clean bare metal that was exposed after stipping, I think I used 50 gritt then applied the CS. THIN COATS is very important.

When I get to it, I'll then scuff the CS and apply body color paint and/or rubberized undercoating similar to what was on the car when new.   
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Dreamcar

I've been using Chassis Saver lately. Prepping perfectly is the key. Read the tech sheets top to bottom. Their customer service is excellent too (they will actually respond to email!).

I stripped the undercoat and paint off my inner fenders but left some of the surface rust because as it says in the litterature, CS sticks to rust better than anything else. For the clean bare metal that was exposed after stipping, I think I used 50 gritt then applied the CS, which is an alternative to blasting as confirmed by the manufacturer. THIN COATS is very important.

When I get to it, I'll then scuff the CS and apply body color paint and/or rubberized undercoating similar to what was on the car when new.   
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger-SE

I used Rust Bullet with the Black Shell treatment.  Prep is a critical key.  Get the entire kit and use each product exactly as indicated in the instructions.  I am very pleased with it...  Hard as a rock and does not chip.  I don't know how 'good' it penetrated the metal/rusted areas but I am happy with what I see.   Time will tell, I guess...