Questions about 74 Charger SE

[ODZKing]

Should the floor console have a light for the shift plate so you can see what you shifted to on the automatic version? Mine is dark at night.
Also, should all SEs have the wheel moulding and rocker panel moulding? Mine doesn't. It is a Lynch Rd car so the fender tag doesn't have much info. But I don't see screw holes where the wheel moulding would have been.
Also, how big of a job is it to remove the door guard moulding. In the pictures is looks ok but in reality it is heavily pitted and not very nice looking up close.

Also what is the best way to touch up the silver accents for things like the dash where there is  a silver ring around each guage opening or the dash emblem? Looks like silver paint. My base model dash has chrome accents on the dash. Does everyone just get a piant brush and some silver paint or is there a better method?

Let's see if we can't answer some of these questions. Yes!  There is a bulb in the shifter plate and when you shift the indicator actually changes colors to indicate drive, neutral etc. Not hard just kind of complicated.  You have to remove shift handle, the plate on the console, then remove the shifter mechanism from the brackets. 3 bolts and lift off.  You'll see the bulb under there. #57 bulb.  I replaced mine with a BA9S LED, works great.
W/O mouldings, yes SE standard. If you look here http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1973/73_Charger_Total0006.jpg you'll see they were included in the SE package. I suppose you could delete them but you'd pay for them anyway. Easier back then to just take them off after you got the car if you didn't want them. Holes were probably in the fenders unless they've been replaced or filled in.
Door guard moulding ... mine was the same and the rubber portion had shrunk so it looked awful. Probably will be holes at either end as I believe they are screwed on (mine were) you'll have to fill.  Otherwise just stuck on.
As far as the dash, I just used a silver/chrome paint pen and pledge. It was the plastic chrome but unless you want to have it redone which is costly, this is the easiest and best looking way. That is what I did anyway.

[workworkwork]

Thank you. This is good info. Took the shift plate off per instructions. Found the bulb socket wire is broken off. Does anyone make those? It clips firmly into the shift plate. Also The shift plate is pitted and needs replaced. But it looks like it is held with pins that probably need to be drilled out. Do these pry off the backing or do you need to drill them apart? I like the LED idea for putting this back together. The LED should last the rest of my life.

[Nacho-RT74]

the brake light is also turned on by the proportioning brake valve switch warning you there is a brake fluid pressure fail

I did not know that. I will check the fluid to see what might be happening there. Brakes do seem to work ok.

unplug the wire first to prop valve to check if turns off

The SE is new to me. I have a couple more questions. Should the floor console have a light for the shift plate so you can see what you shifted to on the automatic version? Mine is dark at night.

I think you got the answer

you should fine an orange wire underneath the carpet... if unexistant, you should fine the wire extension coming from passenger side kick panel.

Pitted bezzel... they are available as repro ( Check BEAPART.COM ). Removing ? pins needs to be cut or drilled. These are smashed to keep in place. Dunno how would be mounted the repros.

Also, should all SEs have the wheel moulding and rocker panel moulding? Mine doesn't. It is a Lynch Rd car so the fender tag doesn't have much info. But I don't see screw holes where the wheel moulding would have been.

I never have seen an SE without those. Rocker are not being repopped... Wheel openings are.

Also, how big of a job is it to remove the door guard moulding. In the pictures is looks ok but in reality it is heavily pitted and not very nice looking up close.

Do you mean the top belt mold ?

need to remove the weatherstrip then will have access to the mold screws. Both are attached with phillips screws.

However to get easier access to them is better remove door panels, remove the bottom glass bumper ( attached on lower of door inside ) scroll down COMPLETTELY the glass, then will be easier to get access to these screws. There is also a nut on rear of door.

Also what is the best way to touch up the silver accents for things like the dash where there is  a silver ring around each guage opening or the dash emblem? Looks like silver paint. My base model dash has chrome accents on the dash. Does everyone just get a piant brush and some silver paint or is there a better method?

I think answered, but you have this option too:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/341577552550454/permalink/772995226075349/

[ODZKing]

Pitted bezzel... they are available as repro ( Check BEAPART.COM ). Removing ? pins needs to be cut or drilled. These are smashed to keep in place. Dunno how would be mounted the repros.

Got mine on EBay, it was way less. Like $35.00 - But I see there are none on now less that $69.
Don't bother with the used ones, they are all pitted I'm sure.
EASY to install.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-74-ROADRUNNER-CUDA-CHALLENGER-A-T-SHIFTER-PLATE-/231298952195?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35da7dec03&vxp=mtr

Also Classic Industires: http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/e-body-challenger/parts/md4022.html

[workworkwork]

Where is the wire to the prop valve that you are talking about? I would like to try that but I am not sure where to look.

[Ghoste]

There should be a brass block downstream from the master cylinder.  The wire actually comes off the safety switch but its inside that combination valve with proportioning and distribution.  Just follow the brake lines from the master cylinder until you hit brass.

[Nacho-RT74]

not brass, 3rd gens got the Kelsey Hayes cast iron combo valves



attached to inner fender driver side, close to the Booster

[ODZKing]

Nacho is correct. If it is still factory, the plug that goes on the top of the valve just pushes on and is kind of the shape of a bell.
Here is the only shot I have of it, sorry it is so bad but you can see it on the top of the valve.
Here is another shot from the web.

[Nacho-RT74]

The one on top is actually Bendix, but also cast iron! Some cars got the Bendix one

[ODZKing]

The one on top is actually Bendix, but also cast iron! Some cars got the Bendix one

I was just illustrating the plug ... mine is the one on the bottom.

[Ghoste]

Ok, but its still downtstream from the master cylinder.

[workworkwork]

Well, the advice was correct. The proportioning valve connection removal turned off the light. Checking the master cylinder I found the front compartment was empty of brake fluid. Got to have a leak somewhere. Now I need to fix the leak and bleed the brakes. I guess that light actually works if you know what it means.

I ordered the replacement chrome plate on the shift panel. I will take pictures as I replace and post them.

Next issue is the exterior door lock on passenger side does not seem to unlock the door. Pulling up the button will unlock the door. I took door panels off and the lock looks connected from what I can see. Not sure what is going on. There is a small rod that goes down from the door lock to the latch mechanism. But the window covers things up. The window also seems to be about a 1/4 inch too far farward so it does not seal on the door frame. With the door frame off is there a way to adjust the position of the window. Looks like there are some white nylon looking places that connect to the window somehow.

The battery hold down was missing. Got one from Vans Auto on ebay. It is really nice. Easy fix for that. The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well. I ordered the chrome silver pen. I look forward to using it to spruce up the areas where the silver and chrome trim is missing or damaged. I disconnected the connectors under the seats and found the button under the dash was no longer needed to start the car. Just turning the key at that point worked. It looks like that button was added in response to something to do with that mechanism and when the connectors under the seat are disconnected the car works normally.

Thanks o everyone for the advice and help. You guys know your stuff. If anyone has advice on the latest items in this post that would be much appreciated also. 

[ODZKing]

Master cylinders seem backward.  Usually the front reservoir is the back brakes.
You probably have a wheel cylinder for the drum brakes seaping.  Quite common.

[EccentricMagpies]

....The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well.....

Were these all cracked or broken?   Usually just a can of SEMS black paint will make a huge improvement for these if it's only scratches

You sure are getting a lot of things done.  Great job

[workworkwork]

....The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well.....

Were these all cracked or broken?   Usually just a can of SEMS black paint will make a huge improvement for these if it's only scratches

You sure are getting a lot of things done.  Great job

Not broken or cracked. The plastic is strange in that the surface scratched off in various places leaving a whiter looking plastic subsurface underneath. The surface grain seems to sluff off where scratched. Kind of like the plastic degraded over time or something. So, the scratches and a few areas of damage stood out like a sore thumb. I will take a picture and post. The reproduction ones have a very minor difference in appearance to the grain of the plastic but you have to have them side by side to notice the difference. Once in the car they just look pretty good. I will take a picture of that as well.

[ODZKing]

Yeah, everyone calls it "chalky".  Certain colors were worse than others. I don't know if it's because white absorbs more light or something they put in the dye but they are always bad.
Mine has that as well, but until I can afford new ones (which will have to be a second mortgage on my house), these will have to do.

[workworkwork]

Yes, that is it. Except mine are black and actually look worse than the white door panel in the picture. But that is exactly it. Now I know to refer to it as "chalky". Funny but my base model 74 never had this issue but it has spent much of its life in a garage. Same plastic parts as the SE I am working on. So, the sun must do the damage to the plastics. Or maybe heat and a combination of sun.

[workworkwork]

Here are some pictures of the chaulking seat backs and the reproductions on the car. Also, that silver chrome marker pen is great. Works so well at the faded out silver edges. You can do it free hand and do a really nice job.

[workworkwork]

The chrome mirrors were pitted and looking pretty bad. Ordered new ones from 521 Restorations. They are a good match for the originals. I have shown both so that you can see they match and what the new ones look like. The only issue is the black plastic gasket is a tiny bit too short. The mirror hang over the front edged of the gasket by just a tiny bit.

[workworkwork]

Here is the restoration mirror on the car.

[Nacho-RT74]

I would't keep the original gasket with just a refresh on finish. Some armor all should do it!

[workworkwork]

I would't keep the original gasket with just a refresh on finish. Some armor all should do it!

I think I might put the original gasket back on. Not sure why they don't realize the ones they are shipping are too small for the mirror. The mirror itself is very nice.

[workworkwork]

latest adventure for my 74 SE. Took her out for a drive to put gasoline in her. Checked all the fluids before I left. Drove for about 20 minutes and the transmission suddenly wouldn't engage into any gears. Stopped the car. Checked the fluid. Nothing on the stick. All the transmission fluid disappeared in that short time. Had to get towed to a dodge dealer near me. Can't wait to find out where all the fluid went. I didn't see it burning or smell it burning. So, the mystery is on. Maybe it leaked out the pan but I should know next week.

[ODZKing]

Huh, sorry to hear work3. Let us know what happened.
On another note, where did you buy the repro seat backs.  They seen to fit well.

[Nacho-RT74]

Bob, these seat panels are availabe from Vans on ebay... $225. They are the ones were being sold by Mopar metroparts, now out of bussines. Those are the ones I got in white ( posted on 3rd gen board ). They are the ONLY NICE PANELS available for our cars... And they exist because are the same used on E bodies... I hope SOMEDAY IN THE FUTURE will get same manufacturer making door panels to 3rd gens, and FORGETT about Palco(dashtop ) and AccuS**T pieces of crap!!!