Green69rt's paint work

[Dino]

That looks sweet! Too bad you have to reallign it but that seems to be the only negative here. You'll be doing a lot of fun stuff from now on!   
And yes, cut and buff.   

[birdsandbees]

Lookin GREAT!!!! 

Did the same thing on mine pretty much. They sanded out the first clear coat and then hit it with 2 more. They did some minor cut and buff, but for the most part left it in case I scratch it on assembly and then it will be totally cut, buffed and waxed when all done.. then the trim installed. The only thing that is totally cut / polished and waxed on mine is my hood and scoops so I can assemble the ramcharger air box etc and not have to worry about buffing around the scoops later on.

Now get to work... it doesn't go back together as fast as it came apart  !!

[hemi-hampton]

It looks like a different color green under the hood & in the engine compartment. Or is that just the lighting LEON.

[green69rt]

Partly the lighting and probably partly the fact that the engine bay is SS and the outside is BC/CC.  

(Edit to get rid of the babbling nonsense.)

[BLK 68 R/T]

Congrats on getting some color on it. Looks really good 

[igozumn]

 

[green69rt]

I'm going to put this under paint just because it's convenient.  Got the splash shields installed under the fenders.  I have been using Resto Rick's undercoating.  I like it but it is messy.

First pic shows the splash shields laying on my work bench.   Just a hint, do not install the top gasket before it is in the car.  It's easier without it clipped in place.

Pic 2 shows the bottom gasket in place.  It will be obvious that this has to be attached before mounting.

Pic # 3 , installed.  getting the gaskets to seat right takes some work.  I used a bent piece of spring steel to make a little hook to pull the gasket into place.

Pic #4 shows where I sprayed more undercoat to cover up joints, etc.  What a messy process, even got it in the hair on my arms (short sleeve shirt.)

[green69rt]

A final pic of where I tried to spray undercoat on the underside of the front fenders.  I hope this gives some protection from the tires throwing gravel around.

[mopar4don]

Looking good! 

[pipeliner]

Looks great man. Me personally I'm not a big fan of undercoating that's why I used Bedliner, a lot more durable. I've debated on my painting my 70 RT back FF4 and I think I will. I'll be using PPG Deltron.

[green69rt]

I really didn't want to send the car back to the paint shop for the final cut and buff.  Too much money.  Tried for myself.  Took some work but it's done.  All the dirt and trash that was sitting in the paint is gone, and probably 99.99% of the orange peal is gone.   Just need the final polish now.    I followed the procedure in this video.

https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-video/how-to-color-sand-buff-your-cars-paint-on-hands-on-cars-ep-15-eastwood/

Pic #1 is before.
Pic # 2 is after sanding but before buffing.
Pic #3 is the sandpaper I used and the nib file, all from Eastwood.


I'm going to let it sit in this condition for a while.  Got some brake parts in and need to put them on the car, also need to buy the buffer and pads.

[Canadian1968]

looks great. Are you going to leave it finished with 3000? that what your last picture looKS like ? Just remember the longer you leave the clear coat the harder it will be to buff !

[green69rt]

looks great. Are you going to leave it finished with 3000? that what your last picture looKS like ? Just remember the longer you leave the clear coat the harder it will be to buff !

No, I'm not going to leave it at 3000.

And, I didn't realize that I need to buff sooner rather than later.  I guess I'll get on the stick and order up the buffer and compound.   

[hemi-hampton]

Depending on the clear used, sometimes better sooner then later. For Example. If you let Polyurethane Clear sit for a week & then try to sand or rub, forget it, it will be hard as a rock. LEON.

[green69rt]

Depending on the clear used, sometimes better sooner then later. For Example. If you let Polyurethane Clear sit for a week & then try to sand or rub, forget it, it will be hard as a rock. LEON.

I did the sanding after the car set for about 6 weeks and it seemed to sand fairly easy.   At least I think so, no experience in this sort of thing.   

[hemi-hampton]

If it sanded easily after 6 weeks you should be fine. Actually I prefer to wait, because if you sand & rub to soon, like within the first week the paint will dull out & get hazy over time because it is still drying. If you wait to totally dry, once rubbed it will not dull out or get hazy but keep a good shine. no sand scratch swelling or shrinking if totally dry. Most Paint Manufacturers would recommend 90 days to be totally dry. some clears may be to hard by then. LEON.

[green69rt]

If it sanded easily after 6 weeks you should be fine. Actually I prefer to wait, because if you sand & rub to soon, like within the first week the paint will dull out & get hazy over time because it is still drying. If you wait to totally dry, once rubbed it will not dull out or get hazy but keep a good shine. no sand scratch swelling or shrinking if totally dry. Most Paint Manufacturers would recommend 90 days to be totally dry. some clears may be to hard by then. LEON.

I'll have to look back, but it must be getting close to 4 months since the paint was sprayed.  It will probably be another few weeks before I get to buffing it out.  Sounds like it won't be a problem.  You'll see the results on here.

[ht4spd307]

If it sanded easily after 6 weeks you should be fine. Actually I prefer to wait, because if you sand & rub to soon, like within the first week the paint will dull out & get hazy over time because it is still drying. If you wait to totally dry, once rubbed it will not dull out or get hazy but keep a good shine. no sand scratch swelling or shrinking if totally dry. Most Paint Manufacturers would recommend 90 days to be totally dry. some clears may be to hard by then. LEON.

spot on advise 

[green69rt]

Started buffing yesterday.  I started with the front valance since it's off the car and I can stand up to do it.  Used Eastwood's Liquid Ice system.  Seems fairly straight forward.   Three steps, wool pad, blue pad and then a final white pad for final polish.  Pic shows half the valance done.  After using the system I tried using just the blue and white pads (skip the wool pad) and couldn't tell the difference.  I think using that 3000 grit paper made things so nice that I could skip a step.  I did have to be careful around the edges to make sure I didn't buff off all the paint.

Sure is messy though, the pads tend to fling the liquid everywhere.

[cdr]

tape all the edges, if you dont you will understand why.

[hemi-hampton]

With the 3000 you can probably skip the wool pad step but i'm not sure what your foam pads are made for. Nowadays you can just start out with a Cutter Foam pad to start your rubbing. I'd also have someone hold it down. If the wheel catches a edge it can go flying on the floor if nobody holding it steady. LEON.

[green69rt]

With the 3000 you can probably skip the wool pad step but i'm not sure what your foam pads are made for. Nowadays you can just start out with a Cutter Foam pad to start your rubbing. I'd also have someone hold it down. If the wheel catches a edge it can go flying on the floor if nobody holding it steady. LEON.

Leon

I don't know what the foam pads are for either, I'm just using them according to the instruction and the video.  As far as skipping the wool step, I took a real close look at a part where I didn't use it.  I could still see some light scratches so I'll continue to use it.  The parts I've done so far are pretty much how I wanted it,  maybe a 2 ft paint job (for me and my old eyes.)  I can now see some little pits in the paint and it is not 100% mirror-like but better than I wanted when I started.  When you say hold it down I assume you're talking about the piece I'm buffing not the buffer itself, and yes I came close once or twice on the front valance before I figured out how to hold the buffer.  Technique and practice count.

CDR

Yes I've already discovered the problem with edges.  It wasn't bad but a 1 or 2 inch piece of the edge of one of the holes in the valance shows a thin line of primer.  You'd have to search for it but I know it's there.  The paint can get kind of thin at edges and ridges and buffing can go right thru it if not very careful.

[Midnight_Rider]

Well I've got to say I find this whole thread rather inspiring 

[hemi-hampton]

Most people I know & have rubbed with will usually go over a spot one time & then move onto the next finer rubbing step. I'll go over a spot (usually like 2 foot by 2 foot spot) always at least twice, 3 or 4 times if need be to get all the fine sanding scratches out. Then move on to next step. Yes, I was referring to the part when I said hold it. even if experianced just the wrong move or angle can send it flying, especially if a small lightweight part. Good luck. LEON.

[Patronus]

Sure is fun watching the color pop out while buffing!
After all that work and time...!! glad to see you're still at it