Green69rt's paint work

[green69rt]

That color seems to have a odd Pastel look to it

Seems that no matter how I use the camera, the color or reflection in the paint does weird things.  I've tried flash, no flash, garage lights on, garage lights off, daylight or night, just get all sorts of different shading.  Just looking through the pictures of the hood hinges, some seem to have blue in them and some almost a F8 green vs the F5 on the paint can. 

I took another look at the pictures and then the car and I think the color variation is the result of me having a few LED "daylight" fixtures as overhead lights in the garage and the rest normal "cool white" bulbs.  The LEDs give good light but they make for strange colors at different angles.  I switching to all LED, maybe a bad idea if I was doing painting as a business.

[cdr]

It was great to see you & the car, lookin great !!!   

[hemi-hampton]

You never said what Primer you used, Slick Sand? Featherfill? From what I can see you need to reprime again. LEON.

[green69rt]

You never said what Primer you used, Slick Sand? Featherfill? From what I can see you need to reprime again. LEON.

I haven't done any primer surfacer yet.  Over the years there have been a bunch of layers and over spray of primer, filler etc.  I was worried that all the layers of filler, primer would act funny on the final finish so I was taking almost everything off.  At the time, I shot it with the idea that it would prevent rust.  Now it's time to get it ready to paint.

That's a good comment.  I sanded down to bare metal in spots.  So, do I need to shoot primer before the surfacer or go straight to surfacer then top it off with primer in prep for final top coat??

Edit: looked up the data sheets and found that Slick sand requires epoxy primer over bare metal before appling, Clausens does not.  Clausens is a etching product.

[charge69]

You are making good progress on the Charger.  I'm glad Charlie lives close enough to come by with some pointers.  He gave you some good advice.  Keep going forward and the end will be soon enough!

[cdr]

You never said what Primer you used, Slick Sand? Featherfill? From what I can see you need to reprime again. LEON.

I haven't done any primer surfacer yet.  Over the years there have been a bunch of layers and over spray of primer, filler etc.  I was worried that all the layers of filler, primer would act funny on the final finish so I was taking almost everything off.  At the time, I shot it with the idea that it would prevent rust.  Now it's time to get it ready to paint.

That's a good comment.  I sanded down to bare metal in spots.  So, do I need to shoot primer before the surfacer or go straight to surfacer then top it off with primer in prep for final top coat??

if using Clausens ,it can go over bare metal or anything.

[hemi-hampton]

I never heard of or used Clausens so can't give any advise on that, do you live in USA? LEON.

[cdr]

I never heard of or used Clausens so can't give any advise on that, do you live in USA? LEON.

yes we live in south Texas.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjPzYPLudbNAhXL6IMKHUpJCcEQFggeMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.clausenautobody.com%2Fproddetail.php%3Fprod%3Drust-defender&usg=AFQjCNHiW1Q8Z_LZ9AlbC2nhUovSEPYF-Q

[green69rt]

Sanding a whole car sure is fun.  While I was sanding I was wondering how straight the sheet metal was.  I didn't have any guide coat or anything I wanted to use.   Then I remembered something my Grandfather taught me.  He was a carpenter and he said if you want to check for a flat surfave just mark the surface up with a pencil then sand with a flat board.  High spots get knocked down first and low spots don't get sanded.  So I marked up a quarter on the car and tried it.  Seems to work pretty good.  

Pic #1 shows how I cross hatched the quarter.  The marks are light so look hard.  Don't press hard with the pencil, just hard enough to leave the mark.
Pic #2 shows how a low spot by the rear marker turned up.
Pic #3 shows some filler on a low spot on the driver door.
Pic #4 shows the door after sanding.

[Homerr]

That color seems to have a odd Pastel look to it

Seems that no matter how I use the camera, the color or reflection in the paint does weird things.  I've tried flash, no flash, garage lights on, garage lights off, daylight or night, just get all sorts of different shading.  Just looking through the pictures of the hood hinges, some seem to have blue in them and some almost a F8 green vs the F5 on the paint can. 

I took another look at the pictures and then the car and I think the color variation is the result of me having a few LED "daylight" fixtures as overhead lights in the garage and the rest normal "cool white" bulbs.  The LEDs give good light but they make for strange colors at different angles.  I switching to all LED, maybe a bad idea if I was doing painting as a business.

K.I.S.S. - take a painted part out in the sun and take a picture of it.


Love the thread and all the work btw!

[Homerr]

Sanding a whole car sure is fun.  While I was sanding I was wondering how straight the sheet metal was.  I didn't have any guide coat or anything I wanted to use.   Then I remembered something my Grandfather taught me.  He was a carpenter and he said if you want to check for a flat surfave just mark the surface up with a pencil then sand with a flat board.  High spots get knocked down first and low spots don't get sanded.  So I marked up a quarter on the car and tried it.  Seems to work pretty good.  

Pic #1 shows how I cross hatched the quarter.  The marks are light so look hard.  Don't press hard with the pencil, just hard enough to leave the mark.
Pic #2 shows how a low spot by the rear marker turned up.
Pic #3 shows some filler on a low spot on the driver door.
Pic #4 shows the door after sanding.

Get a can of cheap black spray paint to use as a guide coat.  Spray it with just enough coverage to see low/high areas.

[green69rt]

Get a can of cheap black spray paint to use as a guide coat.  Spray it with just enough coverage to see low/high areas.

I've heard of doing that and would have but I was in the middle of the work and didn't want to quit and make a trip so just used the pencil trick.  I thought it worked well.

[Charger-Bodie]

Looks like the pencil trick work well to me . Clever idea!

[hemi-hampton]

Usually what I do is after Priming, I run thinner threw my gun to clean it out, while I'm doing this I'll add some black base tint or any black laying around to the thinner & spray a black guide coat with the gun. As seen below. LEON.

[green69rt]

Usually what I do is after Priming, I run thinner threw my gun to clean it out, while I'm doing this I'll add some black base tint or any black laying around to the thinner & spray a black guide coat with the gun. As seen below. LEON.

neat!!!  two steps in one.

[green69rt]

Hours and hours of filler then sand, sand, sand And I'm close to calling it quits.  Pics show the product.

Pic #1 shows pass fender, most of the work there was around the marker light opening and the top edge of the fender.  As it came from AMD the top edge was really round, I would guess maybe a 3/16" radius.  The door (OE door) edge that the fender edge ran into was really nice and crisp, not knife sharp but a nice fold.  I ended up making a knife edge then knocking the edge down with some 150 grit to match the door.

Pic #2 show the passenger door.  This is what came on the car and the years were not kind to it.  Once I started sanding I found many parking lot dings.

Pic#3 Is the pass quarter.  Again, most of the work was around the marker opening and the area behind the wheel.

Now I got a question about the body lines in the next post.

[green69rt]

As I was working on the filler I noticed that the center body line from the front fender to the door are about 1/4" to 3/8" mismatched.

Here's what I see...it looks like the door center line runs into the bottom line of the door scallop and then disappears at the front of the scallop then reappears on the fender.  But the line on my fenders does not line up with that line. 

Pic #1 shows a tape I applied, to the driver side, that travels along the fender line then onto thedoor and matches the middle line on the door.  I marked on the tape (freehand) where I can feel the line on the fender.  Way off! 

Pic #2 gives a hint of how the rest of the door to fender profile matches. Bottom and top are fine, at least to my eye.

Pic #3 show the passenger side that shows the same offset.  Both OE doors, both AMD fenders.  Seems like it would take a lot of filler to correct.

Any thoughts?

[cdr]

open the door & look inside the fender at the edge, & see where the line really is on the fender, you might have gone astray on the line, I did on mine & that is how I figured it out.

[Canadian1968]

how many times are you planning to prime ? you have gone done to bare metal in some spots and still habe primer in others. All materials will be removed at different rates. Those bare metal are obviously your high spots, but as u are sanding over them your primer and filler around your bare metal is being removed much faster, careful not to go to far, you can almost end up back at your filler stage of your not careful

I am not sure what product your using but I would look into a good HIGH build primer if you can not find a dtm primer u are happy with. The purchase some etch wipes to treat your bare metal and then apply your high build or poly surfacer. It looks like you have about 2 more rounds to go !

[hemi-hampton]

To me it almost looks like you need a thin skim coat of filler over everything. Just my opinion, I'm sure others will vary.    LEON.

[green69rt]

This was a case of a lot of different layers of various things over the years.  I took this time to remove almost everything while I looked for high and low spots.  The high spots look like places that I just got too vigorous with the sandpaper.  If you look it's almost always on the top curve of the fenders. The low spots look more legit.  I pretty much put a skim coat on everything.  I think the method is to do all the metal work, which may involve more than one coat of filler or primer then end up with a primer coated shell.  Now sand it all down to reveal the high and low spots.  Fill the low spots and shrink the high spots to get closer to all at one level.  Now sand till everything is really close and then spray a high build "primer/surfacer"  to get that last little bit of smoothness. Now the final blocking and a final layer of primer to seal everything.

I think I am close to shooting some primer/surfacer such as "featherfill".  The biggest problem that I am having is that the body lines that I expect to show up are just not there.  I looked thru some threads and I can see the body lines (kind of jealous) but getting them to show up on my car seems to be really hard.  The AMD fenders have really soft folds and bends.  Getting them to have nice sharp body lines is a chore.  Is this normal?

Edit...now that I look at the pictures I posted it looks like the high spots are on the lower parts of the car.  I think I will go out and look at the car again.....

[green69rt]

Just a final note, I'm not really happy with the body lines of the AMD fenders.  They seem really soft.  Just whining!!

[hemi-hampton]

Your body lines should look like this while blocking primer & like this when done. LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

Area's like this circled black that show bondo, metal, bondo, metal, bondo, metal, ect would be better off with one thin skim coat of filler & blocked but don't block until your back to metal & bondo & metal again. Keep a thin coat over it all or most of it. The way you got it, sure 4-5 coats of feather fill & blocked & another 4-5 coats & blocked may get it straight but with the skim coat I suggested will be much easier & straighter. LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

About 6-7 years ago a guy that lived in Detroit area got a hold of me. He put his own 1/4's on & when he was done he realized what mess he made of them & screwed then up. Wanted me to come fix them. I rubbed my hands on them & waviest 1/4's I ever felt. So bad I was about to tell him to cut them off & try again or I'll redo them. He wanted me to save them as is. SO, I had to bondo them end to end top to bottom. I was going to say I skimed coated them but it was more then that. Anyways, when the car was done everybody loved how straight the car was & nobody knew any bondo was on the Quarters. Both sides were done. Pic below. LEON.