Green69rt's paint work

[hemi-hampton]

In my opinion, Used Factory parts will always fit better then any aftermarket. LEON.

[green69rt]

Well, I switched out the new door for the old door.  I didn't want to use the old door because of dents and a lot of crap inside that I want to clean out.  I figured that the cost of the new door was cheaper than having the old door repaired and cleaned.  Maybe I was wrong.  I've been talking to a local guy that I plan to use for painting and he suggested that I put the old driver door back on and see what the gaps look like.  Ok, maybe a hour of work so I did.  What a diff!  The pictures tell the story.  First pic shows the fender to door gap.  The picture in the post above does not show how bad it was, the first pic below doesn't show the improvement, but believe me it's a BIG improvement!!

Second shows the cowl/fender/door gaps, not perfect but so much better.  The door to quarter gap still looks good (pic #3) and the gap at the bottom of the door (pic #4)now matches the gap on the pass side.  I guess I'll let the shop fix the old door.

Really disappointing the AMD door is not a better fit.  I'll hang on to it till the car is painted then maybe I can sell it to someone that's willing to take on the extra work to make it fit

[green69rt]

Spring planting, yard work and house repairs have been using up my time the last few weeks, but I have managed to squeeze in a few hours to hang the body panels and get the gaps set.

Seems like it is a lot of finessing here and a little pushing there, then go back and finesse and push again but it seems to have come out all right.  In fact I was surprised how good they have come out and also how long it took. (You may not be able to see how good the gaps are in these photos, if anyone wants better shots let me know.)

Pic #1 is the car setting as it is today waiting for the paint shop to call and say they are ready.  Right now I intend to send it so South Coast Paint and Body.  Almost in walking distance from my house, almost.

Pic #2 is the hood to fender gap, really close.  If everything comes out this close I will be happy, I checked out Troy's Daytona at the Nifty Fifties show and I'm getting real close to his gaps.

Pic #3 is the hood to cowl gap.  I might be able to close this up by another 1/64" but probably isn't worth the work.  The front edge of the hood is just about perfect fit to the length of the fenders.

Pic #4 - finally the doors,quarter and fender profiles look really close, no panels sticking out beyond the other and gaps good.

Some small amount of work still to do around the area where the driver door, cowl and fender come together.  If the paint shop gives me enough time I may tackle it myself.

[mopar4don]

I cant wait to get to this point!
Great job Mitch!! 

[cdr]

lookin REALLY good!!!!!!

[fy469rtse]

Looking really good, 
make sure the painter body man pays attention to those front fenders mitch,
door openings , the flat area to the top roll on the nose of those fender, different to originals,
are the bottom I brows finished compared to originals ,
early fenders from amd weren't,
did you notice old rim compared to the rest of car , shows how far car has come along

[green69rt]

Been gone a while.  Summer in Houston seems to pull my cork some.  Been working inside on a bathroom so the garage has been so full of cabinets, tile and fixtures that I couldn't get to the charger.   Also the guy I was going to have paint the car seems to have stood me up.  Saw him several times and asked about schedule and all I got was "still waiting for a space!"  I finally quit calling him and am waiting for him to call me, doesn't seem likely.   enough sob story.

So decided to do the under coating in the wheel wells while waiting. 

I used Resto Rick's undercoating -

http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Undercoat

Got a gun from Eastwood -

http://www.eastwood.com/flake-gun-with-bottle.html

And spent some time masking things off.  Resto says it's a real mess and he was right!  At least I made a big mess, black stuff everywhere.   The painting was really pretty easy, but I would have been better off doing this while the car was and the rotisserie.   Small lesson.   I did two coats and maybe I'll do a couple of more later but right now it seems pretty good.

First pic is the car and garage covered and masked,  good thing because the spray is pretty wild.  I used 70# on the gun and it made painting easy but I could feel the undercoating particles bouncing back onto my arms.

second pic is how I masked the front shock towers,  I seem some thread on the correct way and there seems to be a little variation so I just did what I wanted.

Third pick it the final front wheel well and the forth is the rear.

[tan top]

 

[1970Moparmann]

Turned out great!

[green69rt]

Thanks guys, back in the saddle...

[CDN72SE]

Very nice, worth the clean up. 

[Pat1973charger]

Lookin good Mitch!

[green69rt]

Since I can't get the paint shop in gear I decided to push forward with as much body work as I can.  So I started on the trunk lid and doors.  They all got stripped down and as usuall I found unexpected previous work.   The driver door was especially bad under the paint.  Looks like someone had patched the bottom of the door and I found some rust under the filler.  Had to take it all off down to bare metal.  Now I have to prime and fill to get it back in shape.  See pic #1,2.

Pass door was not nearly as bad, had one small patch on the corner but a bunch of dings right in the middle.   pic #3

So everything is stripped and primed (pic #4) and getting filler as we speak.

[Dino]

Hey you got a fridge in your garage!  That would've made my painting more fun, I had to run inside the house to get beer and the paint fumes would follow me and hang around to stink up the place.   

Good job, don't stop!   

[1974dodgecharger]

I take it your mini tubbing?

[green69rt]

I take it your mini tubbing?

Nope, stock.  May look that way but it's not.

[green69rt]

Been spending a little more time getting the doors and trunk lid filled and primed.  Looks pretty good to me, fixed the bad repair on the driver door and a few dents and dings on both.  Sanded, skimed and primed the trunk lid.  Going to set them aside while I finish off priming the engine bay.   While I was at it I sprayed Eastwood internal frame coating between the layers of sheet metal that compose the trunk lid.  I can't get in there to do any work so this might help stop or at least slow down corrosion.  Pic #1 is the stuff I used, just sprayed it around inside all the holes I could find till it was running then tilted the trunk around with the hope that it would run into all the seams.  I can't really tell how good the coverage is because I can't see inside.  Also sprayed it in the bottom of the doors around the bottom seam and around the hinge brackets (inside the door.)

Did some filler work on the doors, got them looking better.  I still haven't mastered the technique of restoring the body line along the bottom of the door but I'm working on it.  Looks close but there is a 8-12" place in the middle of the driver door where the line fades out then back in.  Can't see much in the pic #2 but they're ready for finally sanding and maybe some surfacer, which means I get one more crack at that body line.  The driver door had the bad repair that I'm trying to fix.

While I had the paint gun out I cleaned and sprayed the trunk hinges and did a little skiming and priming of the dutchmen. pic #3 and #4

[green69rt]

I been thinking about the painting process for the outside of the car and reading the threads on here.  Couple of questions come up for me.  The color will be F5 which is a medium green poly which I can see is a slight metallic.  So on one thread, someone recommended that the outside of the car be painted with the doors, hood and truck lid installed so the paint will match from panel to panel. OK.  Then I look and the door jams, trunk lip and engine bay need to be painted first.  So wouldn't this create a tape line from paint to paint?

I started this job thinking I would do the underside of the hood, trunk lid, engine bay and the door jams.  But where do I stop?  The rockers are the least obvious, there is no seam that I can use as a guide for the tape (hoping to camouflage the paint line in the crack of the seam.)

The doors, hood and trunk lid seem fairly straight forward, just stop at the edge.

Also, everyone says I should use BC/CC so that means trying to do all the above then blend the outside into the jams, etc.  

This has to be pretty obvious to you professional painter types, after all, car are repainted every day.  Do they have tape lines, just hidden??

So whats's the proceedure??

[cdr]

you can paint the jams & then do a back tape that is rolled back so it is not a hard tape line. that is how i did mine.

LOOKING GREAT!!!!

[green69rt]

you can paint the jams & then do a back tape that is rolled back so it is not a hard tape line. that is how i did mine.

LOOKING GREAT!!!!

Maybe I'll come over and you can show me what you mean.

[Dino]

With a color like F5 I highly recommend painting the outside with everything installed.  That does mean doing the jambs seperately.  A rollback tape means you place half of the tape on the painted jamb and half sticks out touching nothing but air.  You then fold the tape back onto itself keeping the crease round so the tape goes into an arc.  This minimizes the tape line.  There are also foam masking tubes that stick onto the jamb and minimize tape lines.  When all the painting is done and you remove the tape, there will still be some tape marks and overspray so that's where the final touch comes in: fine wet sanding and polishing.  The risk is sanding throgh the clear, bu a small tocuh up can be done if needed.  That's why it's important to minimize the tape line in the first place so the cleanup is not too much work.

There's another option, but it's a bit risky.  I used this on my own car when I painted the engine bay.  I had to paint all the way up to the top of the fender and with a white car this creates a very visible line.  I used the tape rollback method to start which minimized it significantly.  As soon as I had finished cleaning the paintgun and put everything away, the paint was getting dry but was far from cured.  I took a clean rag with some lacquer thinner and ran it over the paint edge with my finger.  When done right the tape line will melt and the new paint blends into the old.  It takes a little bit of the gloss of the paint so once it was cured I gave it a quick rub with polish to brink that shine back.  There's no telling now where the old paint ends and the new paint beings.  The risky part is that you can take it too far, use too much thinner, or even spill thinner on your fresh paint.  That would kinda ruin the day.

[cdr]

you can paint the jams & then do a back tape that is rolled back so it is not a hard tape line. that is how i did mine.

LOOKING GREAT!!!!

Maybe I'll come over and you can show me what you mean.

no problem

[Charger-Bodie]

the method I use to get a paint line free finish .

Pant the underside of the hood and trunk lid , and the interior color for the doors completely with clear before the exterior, they are easy to mask to avoid masking lines. Then when the outside of the car is ready for paint ,spray the jambs ,but don't clear them yet. When that's dry mask the jambs back from the edge about 3/4 of an inch ,then cover that 3/4 area to the edge with one continuous length of tape. Spray the sealer. Then remove that length of 3/4 tape. Make sure there is no sealer edge by lightly sanding the edge of need be. Next base the entire exterior of the car. Once that's done remove the hood ,doors ,and deck lid . I clear the parts in two batches. The main body shell ,including the jambs . Then the doors hood and deck lid. No paint lines and no color variation.

[green69rt]

the method I use to get a paint line free finish .

Pant the underside of the hood and trunk lid , and the interior color for the doors completely with clear before the exterior, they are easy to mask to avoid masking lines. Then when the outside of the car is ready for paint ,spray the jambs ,but don't clear them yet. When that's dry mask the jambs back from the edge about 3/4 of an inch ,then cover that 3/4 area to the edge with one continuous length of tape. Spray the sealer. Then remove that length of 3/4 tape. Make sure there is no sealer edge by lightly sanding the edge of need be. Next base the entire exterior of the car. Once that's done remove the hood ,doors ,and deck lid . I clear the parts in two batches. The main body shell ,including the jambs . Then the doors hood and deck lid. No paint lines and no color variation.

I think I get it.  Never thought of doing base (to get the color right) then disassemble, then do clear.  I still need to finish a little body work and block but will see what I can do.   Thanks for the help.  I'm betting that things have to go quickly from the time I do the base to doing clear, I don't think I will be able to sand the base much at all.

[Dino]

Bodie's way is the best no doubt, little more work but worth it.  You don't sand the base though and you do have a good window to disassemble and shoot clear, no worries.