It wont stop

[BubbaDuke]

Once again I'm having some sort of electrical issue.  Took my car for a ride last week, ran really well.  Came home and parked it, turned off the key....and it kept running.  I couldnt get the car to stop until I messed with the choke and killed it.  Replaced the ignition switch thinking it was bad, but still does the same.  Any Ideas.  Also I want to buy a new wire harness for under the dash.  I have a ralley dash, but i cant seems to find any for ralley dashes unless that doesnt matter too much.

[68charger440]

Once again I'm having some sort of electrical issue.  Took my car for a ride last week, ran really well.  Came home and parked it, turned off the key....and it kept running.  I couldnt get the car to stop until I messed with the choke and killed it.  Replaced the ignition switch thinking it was bad, but still does the same.  Any Ideas.  Also I want to buy a new wire harness for under the dash.  I have a ralley dash, but i cant seems to find any for ralley dashes unless that doesnt matter too much.

Did it keep running smoothly, or roughly?  If it was real rough then maybe it was real hot and was having what we used to call a runon situation caused by an overheated engine running so hot that it keeps firing even without a spark.  That is usually a very rough run.  If it is smooth then you have power getting to the coil somehow.  Have you messed with any of the wiring lately before this started?

[BubbaDuke]

Yes. I started it today cold.  It started fine and I let it run for a minute then tried to shut if off and it didnt work. I rrplaced the key ignition thinking that went bad but its still the same.  My battery was drained before starting it today if that helpa.  It must be still pullimg power when the key is still off

[68charger440]

Disconnect your battery every time you are done working on the car until you have this problem fixed.  If you battery was dead today then you have a short somewhere that can easily cause a much worse problem and possibly burn your car to the ground.  Check your bulkhead wire connectors and look carefully at the main connectors going to and from the ammeter.  I think they are "p" and "j".  The rest of the dash power gets pulled off of them and they often burn and then short out the other wires.  You may have the ignition wire getting power from one of these wires having melted and are now in contact with the ignition wire making it hot at all times.  The bulkhead connectors should all be wire brush cleaned and packed with dielectric grease even if there is no problem anyway, but you are already past it being a preventative measure.  Do you have a multimeter, and are you comfortable digging into your wiring?

[BubbaDuke]

Yes ive messed with the wires 3 years ago. Ill just have to take another look under there again.  Ive plan on replacimg the wire harness anyways with a painless harness., but I cant seem to find any for ralley dashes

[Mopar Nut]

Ive plan on replacimg the wire harness anyways with a painless harness., but I cant seem to find any for ralley dashes

YearOne sells them, one of the best plug and play wiring harnesses on the market.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-A-B-E-Body/HU274B

If you decide to go YO, wait until they have a 30% off sale, one should be coming up on Labor Day weekend.

[BubbaDuke]

Thanks ill take a look

[BubbaDuke]

Im still new at this stuff, as long as its for a 69 b body will most harness work or is there a special one that is need with ralley gauage.   I see the example u posted has one with an oil gauge which I do have...once again sorry im really trying to learn this stuff

[TexasStroker]

I've had that happen before and helped a club member out a few years ago...put a diode off the ballast resistor and it took care of it.

[68charger440]

I've had that happen before and helped a club member out a few years ago...put a diode off the ballast resistor and it took care of it.

So was it getting backward fed power from somewhere that the diode prevented?  Did you ever find the root cause?  I like the ingenuity of that, but I would worry that you are masking a problem that may still cause issues down the road. Litterally down the road!

[lukedukem]

Im still new at this stuff, as long as its for a 69 b body will most harness work or is there a special one that is need with ralley gauage.   I see the example u posted has one with an oil gauge which I do have...once again sorry im really trying to learn this stuff

correct, the one he posted is the one you want. all 69 b-bodies used that. it the one i put in my car last year. direct fit. took about a weekend of work.

luke

[BubbaDuke]

Luke. When u bought the harness. Do they send a diagram with it. I had bouggt a harness from an auction no to long ago and it says it is for a 69 b body, but according to the diagram I have a lot of the wires are different

[lukedukem]

Luke. When u bought the harness. Do they send a diagram with it. I had bouggt a harness from an auction no to long ago and it says it is for a 69 b body, but according to the diagram I have a lot of the wires are different

no do they do not supply a diagram. but the Field Service Manual has all the electrical diagrams you need for your car.
that's what i used with mine.

Luke

[John_Kunkel]

I'm gonna take a WAG here but the "won't shutoff" problem could be a faulty alternator. If the field wire that's powered from the ignition switch shorts to the alternator's BAT terminal it will feed back when the key is off and power the coil. 

[69wannabe]

I'm gonna take a WAG here but the "won't shutoff" problem could be a faulty alternator. If the field wire that's powered from the ignition switch shorts to the alternator's BAT terminal it will feed back when the key is off and power the coil. 

This is correct!!!! Try disconnecting the voltage regulator and see if the engine dies then when you turn the switch off. It could be the voltage regulator or something in the alternator but i'm betting it's a stuck voltage regulator. Have never had this happen on a mopar but had this happen on a ford truck one time. Replaced the alternator and put a hew regulator on it and fired it up and checked the voltage and it was fine so turned the switch off and pulled the key out and it was still running perfect so unplugged the regulator and the engine died. Had to take that regulator back and get another one. I would check that first.