News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

voltage regulator issue again?

Started by Stegs, March 10, 2015, 07:42:59 AM

Previous topic - Next topic
Print
Go Down Pages1
User actions

Stegs

March 10, 2015, 07:42:59 AM
guys, went out last night to run the car, and get some fuel for it

Its the first trip out this year from being in storage.

all winter long i would keep the battery tender on the car and my truck (week on each, i would just alternate vehicles)

Battery is always charged 100%

Anyway, started the car, the voltage gauge on the dash says 0 (right in the middle)

I let the car idle to warm up, and its still at 0. I would do small revs, and it the gauge would move to the + side

I hit the switch for the parking lights, and the gauge goes below 0 ( - side)

With the lights on, i would rev the car and it would go back to 0


what is going on? voltage regulator again?


On a side note, i replaced the a/c compressor this winter, but i didnt hook the wire back up (i dont want the a/c compressor to ever run) I basically used it as a idler pulley

Could that be a issue?

Also, my dash dimmer switch doesnt work anymore....I was told the wheel goes bad in these....could that be a issue?


I just replaced the voltage regulator last summer/fall and the car system was working great....headlights on and it was still way on the plus side...

Im lost when it comes to electrical on these old cars....any input on where to start looking would be great


Im going to tonight make sure the voltage regulator is grounded well, and the alternator belts are tight....

Back N Black

#1
March 10, 2015, 08:04:06 AM
What year car? If its a 2 gen charger it has an AMP gauge and it is normal for the needle to be at 0. Check at the battery with a meter you should have between 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

lukedukem

#2
March 10, 2015, 08:08:47 AM
Quote from: Back N Black on March 10, 2015, 08:04:06 AM
What year car? If its a 2 gen charger it has an AMP gauge and it is normal for the needle to be at 0. Check at the battery with a meter you should have between 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

i agree with him on this one. my car does the same thing.

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Stegs

#3
March 10, 2015, 08:15:53 AM
its a 69, but when i turn my lights on, it should be above 0...i mean it can be below 0 with the lights on...your battery is draining at that point right?


last fall that car would have the headlights on and the gauge would be above 0...even at idle.....


Im so confused

battery is new last year....and fully charged...

Back N Black

#4
March 10, 2015, 08:37:20 AM
What is you idle setting? if its idling too slow it show a drain on the system. If you rev the engine will it start charging?

Stegs

#5
March 10, 2015, 09:02:40 AM
Quote from: Back N Black on March 10, 2015, 08:37:20 AM
What is you idle setting? if its idling too slow it show a drain on the system. If you rev the engine will it start charging?

I dont know what rpms its at when idling (dont have a tach)

But yes, with no lights on..it will go to the + side when i rev, 0 at idle

when i turn any lights on at idle it will go to below 0 and when i rev it struggle to get to 0


reason i ask is b/c last year i drove it with the lights on and it was well above the middle, even when at a stop sign or red light

lukedukem

#6
March 10, 2015, 11:05:13 AM
how old is the alternator and what size amps. low ones will barley, if any, charge at idle.
that gauge lets you know what your charging system is doing. so if its low and you rev it the needle should go up, that means your alternator is charging. but now it seems it is not charging as good maybe. you could test the alternator

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Stegs

#7
March 10, 2015, 11:37:52 AM
Quote from: lukedukem on March 10, 2015, 11:05:13 AM
how old is the alternator and what size amps. low ones will barley, if any, charge at idle.
that gauge lets you know what your charging system is doing. so if its low and you rev it the needle should go up, that means your alternator is charging. but now it seems it is not charging as good maybe. you could test the alternator

luke


Ill have it tested again, but last year when i did the battery it tested fine...everything with the car was working fine last fall when i parked it. Ill do more investigating on it tonight if i have time

John_Kunkel

#8
March 10, 2015, 01:03:02 PM

This is a common complaint. Factory alternators often just don't have the low rpm output to keep up with the current the system is drawing...that's why alternator upgrades are so popular.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

lukedukem

#9
March 10, 2015, 02:06:28 PM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 10, 2015, 01:03:02 PM

This is a common complaint. Factory alternators often just don't have the low rpm output to keep up with the current the system is drawing...that's why alternator upgrades are so popular.

very correct john.
i too did the alternator upgrade. went with the 70's mod. and bigger alt. it helped me out big time

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Pete in NH

#10
March 10, 2015, 02:44:48 PM
Hi,

I would say from your first post in this thread that your alternator/ regulator are doing what they are supposed to do. As John mentioned unlike more modern cars that can keep up with big electrical loads these old Mopars can't. When you start the car the ammeter should go to the positive side as you rev up the engine to replace the energy used from the battery to start the car. It should slowly fall back to zero as this happens. If you stop at a traffic light with the lights and other electrical items on the ammeter will often swing negative with a stock alternator. Nothing is wrong it is just the way these old systems operate. You can't compare them to newer cars.

Dino

#11
March 10, 2015, 10:21:14 PM
Yep this is all normal for the old stock system, I wouldn't worry about it...but encourage you to look into doing some electrical upgrades nonetheless if straying from stock is an option.   :yesnod:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Stegs

#12
March 11, 2015, 06:14:42 AM
yea guys i went last night to play around with it

I tightened the "bolts" that hold it to the firewall, and it seems to be working when i drove it last night

I guess i would like info on this alternator upgrade? what has to be done? what should i look for?

PlainfieldCharger

#13
March 11, 2015, 07:28:55 AM
If tightening the bolts helps, how about running a separate  ground wire to the regulator from the back of the  block. Eliminates the paint and future corrosion from being an issue... :Twocents:

Stegs

#14
March 11, 2015, 08:00:55 AM
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on March 11, 2015, 07:28:55 AM
If tightening the bolts helps, how about running a separate  ground wire to the regulator from the back of the  block. Eliminates the paint and future corrosion from being an issue... :Twocents:

good idea

Pete in NH

#15
March 11, 2015, 08:26:24 AM
Hi,

There are quite a few options for upgrades. If you stay with a stock size alternator under 60 amps, I would at least do the "fleet bypass" modification that  bypasses the bulk head connector pins in the charging circuit. Do a search through this section as this has been discussed many times before. Going above 60 amps on the alternator, I would bypass the ammeter entirely and go to a voltmeter. Again, this has been covered many times.

If you do a lot of night driving, going to halogen headlights and the highlight relay mod. will give you brighter lights and take some high current paths out of the bulk head connector.

mopar0166

#16
March 11, 2015, 08:59:53 AM
nix it , I never looked back
Print
Go Up Pages1
User actions