Advice on Gauge Cluster Rebuild/Restore

[fy469rtse]

Look up VDO gauges Australia,
They have a modern amp gauge , it's wired independently , do the bypass to amp wires sticky on here,
VDO gauge fitted in behind factory face , needle sits as per factory
Next thing I would is build the test unit for ohms readings,
Check you calibration on gauges yourself , I did as per the thread, gauges ok ,
Fuel not , but that's the tank sender, another thread on that ,
Budget , you can get decals to overlay the faces , put on with care and patience won't be able to tell you have done this to them , the most common fault and the guys on here will back me, circuit board and pins to that for wiring harness connection , also on this part is the crappy voltage factory reducer for reducing volts from
12 to 5.5 volts to run gauges,
Look up charger or rt speciality s for a new circuit board with modern voltage reduction built in,
Do all this first, and if good spend the money on what you look at, repro bezels from pg classics, 
Or do the basics circuit board , this corrects most of the problems, next oil gauge, sender on engine is the usual culprit, same with fuel gauge and earthing of this

[5hunert]

Just remember, every time you are driving you have to look at the dash. For me it would be one of the last things if not the last thing I did before It was road ready but I would do it right.

It is actually.   I have spent $35K over the last 10+ years.  Everything has been done except door panels, a/c control panel, and the cluster.

Of course, now I have to find out what fried my electrical system a few months back.  I suspect my Electronic VR blew up and went full tilt....

I will be running a stock setup until I can convert the Ammeter to something safer.   Eek.

I used Alclad from my scale modeling on the dash bezel on my 64 Fury and it came out great.  But yes, you've gotta airbrush it. 

[Dino]

Just remember, every time you are driving you have to look at the dash. For me it would be one of the last things if not the last thing I did before It was road ready but I would do it right.

It is actually.   I have spent $35K over the last 10+ years.  Everything has been done except door panels, a/c control panel, and the cluster.

Of course, now I have to find out what fried my electrical system a few months back.  I suspect my Electronic VR blew up and went full tilt....

I will be running a stock setup until I can convert the Ammeter to something safer.   Eek.

I used Alclad from my scale modeling on the dash bezel on my 64 Fury and it came out great.  But yes, you've gotta airbrush it. 

That's what I did. Alclad gloss black followed by a thin coat of chrome.  When done right it looks amazing. 

[Skull-1]

What happens if I try to use my Ammeter as a voltmeter?   Will it even move the needle at all?

[Dino]

What happens if I try to use my Ammeter as a voltmeter?   Will it even move the needle at all?

No, but it'll make some smoke before the fuse pops!  The ammeter was designed to have power flow through  If you hook up one power wire and one ground, then you're shorting the system. 

You can alter the ammeter by swapping the ammeter guts with volt meter guts, but that's about it.  Since it's invisible once installed, I didn't see the point in keeping the volt meter within the ammeter housing so I simply bolted the ammeter face to the volt gauge.  Way easier and it works!  All you need is a keyed 12V source so the volt meter only works with ignition on or running.  Run a ground from the new gauge to the cluster housing and you're all set.

I need to go talk to the folks at Kinko's, they have laser printers so if I can find waterproof decal paper as they have for inkjets, then I can have decals made that will look very close in quality to the ones you buy from vendors to resotre the stock gauges.  The one I have now looks the part, but it was tricky to install.  Since I miscalculated the size, it's a tad too small so the needle is off.  When I do this I will have 20 or so on one sheet.  I don't mind sharing.

The volt gauge mod I posted is real easy to do.  Give it a shot, the volt gauge is your only investment and is less than $30.

[Skull-1]

What happens if I try to use my Ammeter as a voltmeter?   Will it even move the needle at all?

No, but it'll make some smoke before the fuse pops!  The ammeter was designed to have power flow through  If you hook up one power wire and one ground, then you're shorting the system. 

You can alter the ammeter by swapping the ammeter guts with volt meter guts, but that's about it.  Since it's invisible once installed, I didn't see the point in keeping the volt meter within the ammeter housing so I simply bolted the ammeter face to the volt gauge.  Way easier and it works!  All you need is a keyed 12V source so the volt meter only works with ignition on or running.  Run a ground from the new gauge to the cluster housing and you're all set.

I need to go talk to the folks at Kinko's, they have laser printers so if I can find waterproof decal paper as they have for inkjets, then I can have decals made that will look very close in quality to the ones you buy from vendors to resotre the stock gauges.  The one I have now looks the part, but it was tricky to install.  Since I miscalculated the size, it's a tad too small so the needle is off.  When I do this I will have 20 or so on one sheet.  I don't mind sharing.

The volt gauge mod I posted is real easy to do.  Give it a shot, the volt gauge is your only investment and is less than $30.

I will look into this.  Definitely interested in your decals.   I don't suppose I could send you an Ammeter face and pay you for the trouble?

[Dino]

What happens if I try to use my Ammeter as a voltmeter?   Will it even move the needle at all?

No, but it'll make some smoke before the fuse pops!  The ammeter was designed to have power flow through  If you hook up one power wire and one ground, then you're shorting the system. 

You can alter the ammeter by swapping the ammeter guts with volt meter guts, but that's about it.  Since it's invisible once installed, I didn't see the point in keeping the volt meter within the ammeter housing so I simply bolted the ammeter face to the volt gauge.  Way easier and it works!  All you need is a keyed 12V source so the volt meter only works with ignition on or running.  Run a ground from the new gauge to the cluster housing and you're all set.

I need to go talk to the folks at Kinko's, they have laser printers so if I can find waterproof decal paper as they have for inkjets, then I can have decals made that will look very close in quality to the ones you buy from vendors to resotre the stock gauges.  The one I have now looks the part, but it was tricky to install.  Since I miscalculated the size, it's a tad too small so the needle is off.  When I do this I will have 20 or so on one sheet.  I don't mind sharing.

The volt gauge mod I posted is real easy to do.  Give it a shot, the volt gauge is your only investment and is less than $30.

I will look into this.  Definitely interested in your decals.   I don't suppose I could send you an Ammeter face and pay you for the trouble?

I wouldn't be opposed to it but I haven't gotten the decals yet.  They'll be very easy to apply though.  All you need to do to the face is make a small cut in the bottom (out of sight when installed) and drill two small holes.  Then just stick the decal on and done.  When I have the decals I'll send you a few.  If it doesn't work out then you can send me the face and I'll give it a shot.   

[Skull-1]

Fair enough.   Have a feeling I am going to destroy this gauge face trying to remove it....

[Dino]

Fair enough.   Have a feeling I am going to destroy this gauge face trying to remove it....

Use a small grinder, like a dremel, to grind down the back of the rivets and the face will pop right off.  You'll be surprised how easy it is.

[Skull-1]

Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

$1500 bucks?? Does that include a new bezel panel as well?? And all new switches? Almost seems like buying a whole new set of OEM gauges for around $900 and just replacing the old guages would be easier and more cost effective. I will start taking mine apart next week and get an idea of what i have to work with, and maybe put in a call to Redline just get a ball park quote.

So not worth it, IMO.  If you're just seeking good looks and functionality, what Jaak did for his '68 is more than adequate and arguably better...

Worth it to me.   This thing is gorgeous.  You get what you pay for.  I am stoked.

[HPP]

Dakota Digital is offering a new gauge cluster for 2nd gen Chargers for just under a grand that is all new and compatible with multiple wiring systems. All you need to supply is a bezel.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=939/category_id=679/mode=prod/prd939.htm

[Skull-1]

Dakota Digital is offering a new gauge cluster for 2nd gen Chargers for just under a grand that is all new and compatible with multiple wiring systems. All you need to supply is a bezel.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=939/category_id=679/mode=prod/prd939.htm

Nice option for those who want to customize.   I just happen to be a fan of the factory look.    But for a grand that's not a bad option there...

[HANDM]

I wouldn't mind aftermarket gauges that are accurate but after staring at the originals for 20 years, I feel it would take another 20 years to get used to it..... 

[Skull-1]

I still want to know if there is a way to mimic the Ammeter's function without using the factory power wiring.    It is helpful to know if I am charging or discharging....unless there's a better way to know my alternator went kablooey. 

[Dino]

I still want to know if there is a way to mimic the Ammeter's function without using the factory power wiring.    It is helpful to know if I am charging or discharging....unless there's a better way to know my alternator went kablooey. 

Look up Nacho's ammeter wiring mod.  It keeps the ammeter but makes it a bit safer.  I didn't want to take the chance nor did I see a need for an ammeter.  Besides, once you run a wire from the alternator to the starter relay the ammeter won't read correct anyway.  I'm much happier with a volt meter in there. 

Of course you could install the voltmeter but keep the stock face as is.  As long as you know where the 12 to 14 volt range is then you'll know what the battery status is.