whats up with the original vapor cansister 440 69 (repro) SOLVED

[bobfist]

Hi!


Trying to get my car running again today and it seems that its the vapor canister original style that mess everythin up
Anyone else had problems with it?
It wont let ant fuel ut up my carb

[b5blue]

It could be clogged, internally there is a screen.

[bobfist]

everything brand new on the car
read something that they where bad repro canistors?

[b5blue]

Yes the bad was leaking!    I've heard of fuel pump pushrods wearing down? Possibly a reduced pump action could not keep up with a vapor return system? 

[bobfist]

motor was fired up since a total restoration yesterday and by swedish best motor restorers MMR
would be worst thing ever if it has...

Can it be this???

[b5blue]

It could not happen that fast, it takes some running time to wear down.  I'd put a pressure gauge on the system past the separator. Check with and with separator bypassed? There is a very small pin hole at the end of the return line fitting inside the can, it allows air but very little fuel through the hole. If it was some way too big you would loose pressure. (I ran my six pack for many years without that can and had no issue, even in very hot Florida!) Try just pinching off the return line hose?

[bobfist]

ok i will try, bec when i have cranked the car for some time i can hear gasoline pour back into to the tank, it sounds like alot

[b5blue]

Keep in mind the car will run just fine without it most likely.

[bobfist]

hi yes i know, just wanted to keep my car as factory as the whole restoration has been that way
Ill see if the pipes in the repro canister are shorter than the original

[66FBCharger]

Try pinching off the rubber return line. My guess is the nipple on the separator that connects to the return line is wide open instead of having an orefice. Check the FSM it will show a cut away of the vapor separator and will call out the orefice size. I believe the orefice should be .040".
I had two separators I bought years ago (probably 15-20 years) and they did not have the orefice. I had the welder at work block the nipple and I drilled it out to the spec in the FSM. It works fine.
I checked a few repro vapor separators being sold by vendors when i went to Chryslers at Carlisle last month. The few I looked at did not have an orefice but were a wide open nipple.

[bobfist]

Found the problems!

The brand new vapor canister was not correct built, china crap
The new volt regulator with correct number stamped on it, china crap broken
The brand new oil pressure sender china crap , broken
The brand new temp sender unit china crap, also broken

After installing the old parts from my other cars everything starting to work.

I will upload picture of the inside of the volt regulator and you guys will see

[66FBCharger]

Great! Post picture of your crap parts so we can all know what to avoid.

[b5blue]

WOW!     

[bobfist]

heres the inside of the volt regulator
notice the crack in the black thing, dont know what its called

[myk]

Are there better, non-Chinese parts to buy?

[bobfist]

My oil gauge and temp gauge started to live thir own lives again.
Oil pressure yesterday not today...it made me crazy
Temp gauge worked last night, not today

Found the problem!

New CHINA ingition lock, it did not return from the start position to ignition position

[b5blue]

Your not alone, I installed a new one in the column of my 70 and 2 weeks later it quit crank position. (I rigged my washer switch as a temporary start button.  ) 

[Voss]

heres the inside of the volt regulator
notice the crack in the black thing, dont know what its called

Oh, looks really bad... Probably it is a transistor of some kind... Can you read the markings on it? There's a fair chance to replace the transistor if you have a soldering iron... Or if you are close to Gothenburg or Boras you could stop by our place and we can help... Where did you buy the regulator?

[Ghoste]

Aren't those cheap Chinese parts awesome?  I hope they put the same level of quality into their military hardware.