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`68 Charger build Restomod

Started by phantom, July 30, 2014, 03:19:25 PM

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rt green

are the inside door lock pulls in the same location on the doors?
third string oil changer

Dino

If you're not using AC then you can close up the holes for the fan, valve, and AC tubes.  You still need the heater tubes but I'm not sure if they'd be in the same spot with a plain heater box.


Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

phantom

Quote from: rt green on January 17, 2016, 12:05:26 PM
are the inside door lock pulls in the same location on the doors?

Yes, they are.

phantom

Dino: Thank you very much :) By heater tubes, do you mean the hoses that go to and from the heaterbox? I have seen several cars with only two hoses going in and out through the firewall, aprox where the A/C fan sits on non-A/C cars ;)

tan top

what Dino said  :yesnod:   also   just over a year ago , I finally  got round to changing  mine over to a standard heater box set up , from factory ac . should of done it at the time of the I was doing the nut & bolt resto , but just wanted to get the damn thing done  :lol:   thought about changing the firewall too , but decided against it , so just made various metal  blanking  plates  ,  also  made a sutible size   blower motor blanking   plate , from a damaged none ac fire wall too. thinking should I want to change back to factory AC  for some reason or another , welding up a few bolt holes & a 1"x1" slot  , is easier & quicker than the alternative , none of AC heater box mounting holes , are in the same location as a standard heater  box , I cheated a bit , by moving two of the standard heater box mounting studs  , to match the  AC heater box mounting stud holes  :P  ,  

below are all for AC

A = heater core pipes
B = water valve
C = heater control panel vacuum supply
D = blower motor
E = AC heater box  mounting stud  nut
F = blower motor vent tube
G = AC heater box  mounting stud nut
H = evaporator core , condensation drain tube
I =  evaporator core , condensation drain tube
J =  AC heater box mounting stud nut
K =  AC heater box mounting stud nut
L = AC lines
M = AC heater box mounting stud nut

none ac heater box  core pipes , in yellow
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

phantom

Thank you, tan top  :2thumbs: Most helpful.

On to find a non a/c heaterbox then.

phantom

Worked on the trunk lid, hood and right fender last couple of days. Along with the doors and roof, these are all old parts, that came with the car.

The trunk lid was in very good condition, beside one small hole on the edge, only surface rust and a couple of dents on the edge.



The edge was a little dented, got a hammer and straightened them out.





The hood is another story, on the underside there was alot of surface rust, and some had gone through. Had to remove rattle can paint too.





The upper side was better



Gone through here, need patching. It's filled with bondo.



Then came the fender  :rotz:  I have never seen that amount of bondo on a single body panel.
This is the front of the fender uncovered. Its like this over the whole side of it





Everything off, and i find no rust fortunately, except a couple of spots on the fender lip, but its covered in small dents. How can a panel get like this? Its like they tried to remove old paint with a jack-hammer  :lol:

Well, its at least workable







phantom

Patched a few more rust holes on the driver door





Then started with a little project :)
Anyone see what i am going for?











Thanks for watching :)

phantom


Dino

Sweet!

Okay I give up.  What's those thingies you made?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

mightywing7

Quote from: Dino on January 28, 2016, 02:01:19 PM
Sweet!

Okay I give up.  What's those thingies you made?

I was thinking the same thing.....

What are those thingies that you made?  :shruggy:
1968 Dodge Charger R/T - 440 Magnum, 727
1968 Dodge Charger - 318, 904
1985 Chrysler LeBaron Turbo Convertible, Mark Cross - 2.2L Turbo
1987 Buick Grand National - 3.8L SFI Turbo
2006 Chrysler Crossfire SRT-6 Coupe, Supercharged 3.2L
2006 Chrysler 300C SRT-8, 6.1L HEMI

phantom

Well, since i am going for a restomod/showcar, i am fabricating new Corvette C3-style door-openers to fit on the top of the doors, and thus eliminating the original ones, giving the sides a sleeker look. Also deleting the door lock, since i am installing power door actuators. Also planning shortened and tucked bumpers along the line, giving the body slightly sharper curves, by not sticking 1 inch outside the fenders. 

6spd68

I'll be very interested to know how well that suspension works for you.  My toss up was between that and the Hotchkiss TVS.  Hotchkiss was cheaper all in, and everyone sings its praises, but it would be good to hear your opinion on the ridetech once installed  :2thumbs:
Every great legend has it's humble beginning.
Project 668:
1968 Dodge Charger (318 Car)
Projected Driveline:
383 with mild stroke
Carb intake w/Holley 750 VS

6-Speed Dodge Viper Transmission

Fully rebuilt Dana-60 w/Motive gears. 3.55 Posi, Yukon axles.

Finished in triple black. 

ETA: "Some velvet morning, when I'm straight..."

Dino

Quote from: phantom on January 28, 2016, 03:42:21 PM
Well, since i am going for a restomod/showcar, i am fabricating new Corvette C3-style door-openers to fit on the top of the doors, and thus eliminating the original ones, giving the sides a sleeker look. Also deleting the door lock, since i am installing power door actuators. Also planning shortened and tucked bumpers along the line, giving the body slightly sharper curves, by not sticking 1 inch outside the fenders. 

Oh that's what that is!  Very cool   :2thumbs:

I thought about getting rid of the door locks, or disconnecting them to make it harder to get into the car.  But a good thief will get it no matter what so I let go of the idea.  Doing it for the look is a different story.  I personally prefer the look with the stock door handles but I know not everyone agrees with that.  I think what you're doing will look very nice.  Are you making the door handles pretty much invisible or are you going with a stainless or chrome look or something?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

phantom

Thank you  ;)

They will be in brushed steel.
Since i am tucking the bumpers later, i have to remove the chrome. I may leave them brushed, and also brush the mouldings around the windows, as they are pretty much shot anyway. If i like that look, i'll use it  :yesnod:

phantom

Quote from: 6spd68 on January 28, 2016, 03:50:43 PM
I'll be very interested to know how well that suspension works for you.  My toss up was between that and the Hotchkiss TVS.  Hotchkiss was cheaper all in, and everyone sings its praises, but it would be good to hear your opinion on the ridetech once installed  :2thumbs:

Stay tuned and you will find out ☺

Charger-Bodie

68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

phantom


phantom

Did some work in the engine bay.

First i closed the holes in my original firewall, but i wasnt happy with the result, and i hate the original location of the wiper motor, so i cut away almost 3/4 of the entire wall, and replaced it with the same steel thickness straight plate.





Made a template








For the heater core pipes i will make new holes, and for the wiper motor, i'll use a custom wiper motor kit from Specialty Power Windows. Will move the engine wire harness connector also.

Thanks for watching ;)


keepat


VegasCharger


phantom


phantom

Finished the door handles, just need to brush them to shine, and coat them with clear.















Got my brake kit. 13" 6 piston front and 12.19" 4 piston rear with parkingbrake. Also got new 2" dropspindles, polished MS and a new booster. But thinking of getting a Hydroboost instead...


Testfitted the rear suspension, needed to drill the holes for the bars before paint.


Couldnt help myself and mocked up the whole thing, except the upper bars, as i need to weld brackets on the axle housing first.


Thanks for watching :)




mopar4don

I am jealous of those door handles!  :drool5:

keepat

Very nice! love that 4 link setup!
Pat