Installing a AMD rear quarter skin

[Daytona313]

I have to replace a quarter skin on my 1969. It has to be a quarter skin because before I realized the severity of the damage to the quarter we welded in a Vega hatch for the Daytona replica and I can't hack into the sail panel area anymore.

I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons of butt welding it or using a crimper to put a ledge on the existing charger metal sheet metal screwing it and then welding.

Any tips or advice on installing a AMD skin would be appreciated!

[Dino]

Personally I would cut the existing quarter off leaving a half inch of metal below the top body line, next to the door, and next to the tail panel/valance.

You can of course make a lip there but if you take your time measuring and cutting a butt weld will work just fine.  It's personal preference more than anything else.  I don't like the idea of a seam under the sheet metal but it works.

[timmycharger]

I installed a Year One quarter skin a few years back, should be similar to the AMD I believe.  I screwed the skin over the existing quarter cut to the final size, then I scribed a line at the edge of the skin onto the existing quarter.  I then carefully scribed another line the width of the cutting wheel just below it to make up for the cutter tool so when you cut the quarter, you will be left with the exact amount of metal.  I butt welded it, making sure I staggered the welds in the beginning as not to warp the quarter.  I ended up drilling out the old quarter welds around the jam area and wrapping the new skin around and re plug welding.

In the last pic you can see that I warped the panel by doing too many welds close together. Didnt make that mistake on the other side!!!

[Patronus]

I vote the lap seam. Too much heat can ruin your day.

[Indygenerallee]

shoulda bought a full quarter alot easier!! just my 

[C500]

Only way to do it properly is to replace the full quarter. Once it's on, you'll be glad you did 

[fy469rtse]

Yep I vote for full quarter replacement as well, a lot less work in the long run , and a lot less bodywork as well ,
The only reason you would do half skin is if you are happy with metalwork done to rear bottom of quarters, and just the front half from door opening back 2 thirds over wheel arch,
Front half the worst,
I would still do the full skin, and borrow a spot welder to do most, wire wheel for clean up

[Dreamcar]

I would certainly go (and I will be soon) with full AMD quarters if you can.

If you go with skins and flange the edges, remember that it will be twice as thick in that area. I would be scared of ghost lines showing up when parked in the sun. The expansion rate will be different due to the thickness.

So if you are going with skins, I would butt weld them. There are a few articles on this that I like, but I can only find this one:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0004_1969_dodge_charger_rt_paddock_project_pt3/viewall.html

[fy469rtse]

No if your going to do the whole quarter panel , get the factory joins one , spot welded in window frame , why would you go to all that welding trouble, spend more at the beginning for a lost less effort and Finnish
Read full quarter panel only , factory joins

[Mike DC]

 

In the last pic you can see that I warped the panel by doing too many welds close together. Didnt make that mistake on the other side!!!

Don't blame yourself too much.  You can warp one of those Goodmark skins just by looking at it wrong. 

[green69rt]

From experience, I will say do not use a crimper or flange tool on you quarter.  No matter how careful you are it will introduce stress and warping into the sheet metal!!  Lots of problems.

If you have to go with a skin, my experience was I used a AMD full skin and lapped it over the top of edge of the existing skin by about a half inch.  Drilled out the welds along the door jam and wrapped it around the jam, same as the old quarter was installed.

Here's my thread on how I did it, along with some of the problems I had.  Look about 2/3 of the way down on page 4.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,54582.75.html

Notice that I did not replace the area that flipped up at the rear of the corner, it just looked too complicated to replace.

[bill440rt]

I installed a Goodmark skin on my '69, first time I actually did a skin on these cars.
I kept the rear, top line, and door jamb flanges of the original panel, and cut the skin approx 1" inward of the seam. It basically left a big floppy patch panel.
I flanged the top seam and sides & welded, and used panel bond adhesive along the bottom flanges & around the wheel opening.
Along the top & side seams I cut small relief cuts in the original panel, which prevented "flattening" of the panel during flanging it. I used a pneumatic flange tool.
I took my time, making a spot weld every 12" or so. Before long the whole panel was welded. On the inside trunk seam instead of seam sealer I used more panel adhesive applied with a brush. I figured this would make the seam stronger and more corrosion resistant than just seam sealer. It flattens very nice as it cures, so once the heavy undercoat was applied the seam became virtually invisible.
I had no warpage. It's been on there 5 years and there has been no ghost lines, either.
If you scroll down a little in this thread on pg1 you can see the skin installed:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64641.0.html

[Chargen69]

i must not have the patience needed for metal work

[ws23rt]

I've had good success making butt welds with oxy/acet.  With a small tip and a short weld --1/4" or less---

The panel expands further than with mig. but comes back into shape as each weld cools.  When I've done this with a mig welder there tends to be more grinding and shaping between welds.  Both take time and patience.

[matrout76]

I installed a Goodmark skin on my '69, first time I actually did a skin on these cars.
I kept the rear, top line, and door jamb flanges of the original panel, and cut the skin approx 1" inward of the seam. It basically left a big floppy patch panel.
I flanged the top seam and sides & welded, and used panel bond adhesive along the bottom flanges & around the wheel opening.
Along the top & side seams I cut small relief cuts in the original panel, which prevented "flattening" of the panel during flanging it. I used a pneumatic flange tool.
I took my time, making a spot weld every 12" or so. Before long the whole panel was welded. On the inside trunk seam instead of seam sealer I used more panel adhesive applied with a brush. I figured this would make the seam stronger and more corrosion resistant than just seam sealer. It flattens very nice as it cures, so once the heavy undercoat was applied the seam became virtually invisible.
I had no warpage. It's been on there 5 years and there has been no ghost lines, either.
If you scroll down a little in this thread on pg1 you can see the skin installed:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64641.0.html

Do you have any photos of the quarter panel installation, including the flanging and relief cuts?

Thanks!!!
Matt

[bill440rt]

I found these two photos, looks like they were taken as the panel was being fit to the car.
I couldn't find any of the actual flange or the relief cuts. I do know that my flange tool makes an approx 1/2" wide step flange. I remember making cuts about every 3-4" or so, otherwise when you use the flange tool it will tend to "flatten" out the panel removing some of the natural curve.

Oops... sorry forgot to attach the photos.