newer 440 block casting good /bad /same

[73chargers4404]

will my 440 that i was going to use in my car and to many pits in the cylinders and would have to be sleeved.so im brought out my back up 440 witch is casting #4006630-440 does any one if this casting # is good  bad or the same .thanks brian   

[RD]

it is only as good as what the "sonic test" states.  that goes for any year block.

go to 440source.com   they have a good write up for you to read.

[6pkrunner]

This debate raged for years over the older blocks (pre-70) the rib-strengthened 1970 blocks and the later supposedly "thinwall" blocks. It was laid to rest that the later blocks were just as good, and in a couple of instances, much beefier than was ever thought and better than the earlier castings. The most important point is the very last number after the last hyphen is the amount of new plugs that have been replaced in that mold. The more cores replaced, the better the chance of misalignment and the better the chance the other plugs are wearing out and at the end of their service life. The best blocks are the ones with no hyphrened number or a ver low number a 1 or 2.
But for a basic street buildup - really not a massive need for concern. Mopar was the worst of the big three for line boring of the block and for balancing of the reciprocating assembly. Other than that all their engineering is golden.

[Chryco Psycho]

I hvae measued late blocks with over .300 thick walls , you could bore that .175 & still be safe
measure each block 

[73chargers4404]

whats everyones take on having sleeves in a couple of cylinders, do they ever come out

[is_it_EVER_done?]

While looking for an exceptional block for my stroker build, I sonic checked 16 blocks in total last year. Plus, I have had about 5 other blocks sonic checked for builds prior to that. I can assure you that the year of the block, and "dash number" (after the part number), have absolutely no bearing on whether a block is good or not.

One thing that I determined (in my opinion), is that if you are only going to go .030 over on a stock stroke, mild performance built 440, I wouldn't even bother with a sonic check, as even the worse block I have ever run across was plenty good enough for that use, however, if you are going to build a killer stroker, plan on buying, or renting a sonic checker.

73char.....  asked about sleeves. A proper sleeve is actually much stronger than an unsleeved cylinder, but it has to be a stepped sleeve so that it can't slip. The Kieth Black race blocks use sleeves, as do several other extreme performance blocks. If you want to know how much a good sleeve can improve performance, and power handling ability, check out this Darton Sleeve link -- http://www.darton-international.com/.

The skill of the machinist is the biggest factor in sleeving, but I would avoid the cheap (straight) non steeped sleeves as they are usually thin, steel instead of nodular iron, and can slip, or leak. Darton or L.A. Sleeve offer the best sleeves, but cost a little (to a LOT) more than the cheap units, but a block that is repaired (by a good machinist) with good sleeves is actually better than new.

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree
sleeves are strong when done correctly & ti is best to leave a ridge at th ebottom of the cylinder to lock the sleeve in
I did come across 1 440 block that left the factory with the thrust wall too thin even at stock bore