How to replace a fuseable link- HELP

[keith88]

Hi guys I was coming home from a cruise yesterday when my car died and had to have it flat bedded home i believe the problem is the fuseable link looks like some one took it out and added a piece of wire in its place and used a wire connector right next to the bulkhead connecter and that where it looks like it fried, highly suspect that it was not connected to good because its so close to the connector. The problem is that i cant get whats left out of the bulkhead connecter,what is the trick to this.  I read a another thread here on this but wasn't sure what he was saying ( picture might help) I did order a new one from year one and will be installing that when it gets here .... Thanks for any help.

[lasvegas69charg]

I used a small screw driver and pushed the brass tang inwards and pulled it out. If you google a picture of the brass terminal you would see what I mean. I think they also make a tool for this. I was wondering if instead of using a fusible link if you could use a 10ga inline fuse rated at maybe 40 to 50 amps?

[Dino]

Put some needle nose pliers on the widest part of the connector and squeeze a bit to make it more narrow, there's a slit in the connector to make it do so, it'll slide right out.

[keith88]

Thanks guys it came out but not willingly that is for sure. Just hope it was just the connection looks like it wasn't holding on by much to began with and is burned at the connection:cheers:

[Pete in NH]

Those pins are called Packard 56 types and you may be able to find then at your local NAPA store or for sure they are available on line. Those fusible links are a pain in the neck and I think it's a good idea to replace them with a more modern fuse in a holder that can be easily replaced. A 50 or 60 amp Maxi-Fuse which is a modern blade type fuse in a holder is a good replacement.

[MaximRecoil]

My fusible link had been replaced with a regular wire at some point, just twisted and taped in there. I bought a new 16 gauge fusible link at the local autoparts store for a few dollars, which has the fusible link label on it and a ring terminal, but is just bare on the other end. I didn't have a new Packard 56 terminal to crimp onto it, so I reused the original one. The problem was that it was still factory-crimped onto that short remaining section of the original fusible link. So I drilled the wire strands out of the crimped area with a 1/16" drill bit, inserted the new fusible link, and then recrimped it with an open barrel crimping tool, like so:

[keith88]

Yea thanks for the info guys for now im going to just put the new link in when  I get it and if I have a problem than ill do the fuse idea that was mentioned, seeing that i mangled the connector getting it out. 

[keith88]

OK i just burned up my new fuseable link for the most part before i found the wiring harness going to the alternator burned to the header that would explain why the car died pretty sure that is the problem  I plan on fixing that issue then try putting a fuse in like some of you have said. Need some info on this if any one can help I did search but did not find what i was looking for as far as what i should buy any links and pictures would work great.

[Pete in NH]

Try your local NAPA store. The fuse holder is NAPA part # NW784482. The fuses are part numbers BK7821166 for the 50 amp fuse and BK7821167 for the 60 amp fuse. either fuse will work. My car has a stock 45 amp alternator so I have a 50 amp.

The fuse holder has a wire loop which you cut in the middle to give you two ends.

[imabozo]

I had a similar experience as you, past year. I also pulled the fusible link and replaced with a 50 amp maxi fuse in an inline fuse holder. All parts from Napa. No issues since. Easy fix.

[keith88]

I bought that fuse holder that you mentioned and how do i mount that the wire is over 1/4 thick how is that going to the bulk head connector.

[Pete in NH]

The NAPA fuse holder comes with the wire lead as a loop, so first thing is you need to cut it in the middle of the loop. On one end you need to crimp on a 5/16" ring terminal. This end goes on the battery stud on the starter relay. Cut off about 1/4 to 5/16" of the insulation on one of the fuse holder leads. You can find the 5/16" ring terminals in those tray hardware assortments at good hardware store or NAPA might have them. Bring the fuse holder with you to the store so you can match the terminal barrel to the wire size of the fuse holder.

You will need a new Packard 56 terminal for the other fuse holder lead that goes into the bulk head connector. I think the largest available is for 12 gauge wire. strip the wire off the other fuse holder lead and when you go to the NAPA store for a new Packard 56 terminal bring the fuse holder with you. If the fuse holder wire is much bigger than 12 gauge wire you have two choices. One is too use a short 3 or 4 inch piece of #12 wire crimped in the pin and then splice the other end to the fuse holder wire, solder the connection, and cover with shrink tubing. The second option would be to cut some number of wire strands from the fuse holder lead until it fits the 12 gauge Packard 56 pin and then crimp the pin on.

[keith88]

Thanks for the info,for the moment i was able to find a universal fuse link at my local auto store that was the same gauge as the stock one all i had to do was reuse the ends from the one that burned up seeing that i could not find anyone who carried the packard 56 end that i needed at any of the stores around here. It worked well and seems that i fixed the problem and was able to get the car started again. So the problem was the part of the harness that melted to the header all fixed and should be good to go.

[Skull-1]

I am going to try this myself.  So it is it a 50A or a 60A fuse to replace the Fusible Link?

[Pete in NH]

You can use either one. The fusible links were not very well defined as to what current level would melt them. I use a 50 map fuse on my system with a stock 45 amp alternator.