Fuel booster pump ?

[fy469rtse]

I know today's fuels evaporate over these hot engines,
What boost pumps have members on here used , ? , plan on setting it up on crank only,
Will help prime line for quick fire up, can't remember the brand I used on last car, but it worked great, instead of excessive cold cranking endlessly until fuel bowls filled up, it was almost an instant cold fire up,
It was especially very good for hot starts, when fuel vaporises over hot engine,
Post what you have used and results,
Looking at a few that summit have listed , but thought I would get some recommendations from you guys that have done it
Thanks in advance geoff

[Troy]

I just did the same thing for my Six Pack. After a bunch of research I purchased a Carter P74029. It is quiet, looks to be really simple to install, and low pressure so no need for a regulator or additional plumbing (I have the factory vapor separator with return line already). The pump design should allow the factory mechanical pump to pull through it without any issues and it can also be used as a "boost pump" at WOT. It definitely won't flow enough fuel to run the car all by itself! I only got it last weeks so I haven't installed it yet. The dash is out of the car so I can replace the fuel gauge and clock that I fried so I'm going to wire it at the same time. With this and the new valley pan with the heat crossover blocked off I'm hoping to solve my fuel boiling/vapor lock issues.

Troy

[b5blue]

Troy I blocked the heat but drilled a 1/8th hole in each side of the pan's block off. Even with no flapper in the right exhaust manifold it still allowed enough heat to activate the coke pull off even in 30 degree weather. It totally solved the hot restart delay on my aluminum six pack intake. As Fl. is so frick'in HOT I just converted my choke to full manual and will be testing it out over the next few weeks.  My car fires right up unless it's sat for several days.

[1965gp]

I know you are looking for a booster- but I recently put a Holley red on our 79 TA and replaced the mech pump. Works great but is loud.

I ordered a very simple to wire module from Classic Industries for about $35 that set it up as a 3 second prime, then crank only like a newer fuel injected car. Highly recommend it.

[fy469rtse]

Thanks guys for the replys,
A couple more options to look at, 

[myk]

Having two fuel pumps seems redundant and unnecessary to me.  If you're going to have an electric pump in there, why not just make it do all of the work? 

[Bob]

Thanks guys for the replys,
A couple more options to look at, 

Here is what I am doing on my 74.
http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/thread/19020/electric-fuel-pump-install-charger

[Ghoste]

Booster pumps are very common on a lot of the older stuff, say pre 1950-ish and especially pre-war.  Do make sure of a couple of things, if you run the booster pump separately I suggest labelling it and never ever forget to turn it off when you are done with it.  If you are running it all the time make certain it is keyed.  I've seen several of those older ones have engine fires start because of booster pumps continuing to dump fuel into a system after the engine is shut down.

[Troy]

Having two fuel pumps seems redundant and unnecessary to me.  If you're going to have an electric pump in there, why not just make it do all of the work? 

Because most of the full time pumps are loud and obnoxious and many require a regulator and/or extra plumbing. My mechanical pump works perfectly once the car is started - it's just that this modern fuel evaporates so fast that all 3 fuel bowls are empty every time I have to start the car and it takes a lot of cranking to get them full enough to get the car running. It's bad for the starter and my patience.

If I'm going to go through the hassle of full-time electric pump then I figure I'll also switch to EFI and then these issues all go away. Already did it to another car but I won't on my rarer ones just because I like originality.

Troy

[Bob]

If the pump will only be used to prime, is there a timer of some sort that can prime the carburator and then shut off? 10 seconds maybe?

[polywideblock]

couldn't it be wired to the "crank" side of ignition switch so that it only runs while your actually starting the car   

[Ghoste]

But you want the bowls primed before you start cranking so as to save wear and tear on the starter.

[John_Kunkel]

Be careful when choosing an electric pump as a booster only, some pumps won't allow "pull through"  IOW, the electric pump blocks the fuel flow when turned off and the engine-driven pump can't pull the fuel through it..

[Troy]

But you want the bowls primed before you start cranking so as to save wear and tear on the starter.

Exactly! My car starts immediately (pretty much) when there's fuel in the bowls so I really don't need the electric pump at all during cranking or running. Tired of pulling off the air cleaner lid and squirting gas through the vent tubes to get it going...

Be careful when choosing an electric pump as a booster only, some pumps won't allow "pull through"  IOW, the electric pump blocks the fuel flow when turned off and the engine-driven pump can't pull the fuel through it..

That's why I picked the one I did. I forget now which "type" to avoid because some won't allow anything through. I think the style I have is a "rotary"? If you have the other type though you can run it in parallel (not inline) with a "bypass valve" but that's a lot more plumbing - and more things to go wrong!

Troy

[Bob]

I just finished wiring mine in the acc only side of the fuse box allong with a switch. Ignition switch off, pump is off. Now to put gas in and give it a try.

[Bob]

Here are my results from installing the electric fuel pump:

"Today was the day. Put 5 gallons of fresh gas in the new tank, turned on the pump and I could here it catch the gas. I let the pump run for about 5 seconds and cranked him over. 3 quick times and he roared to life. It ran great! I let it get to operating temperature and shut it down. Came back about 10 minutes later, reached in the window, let the pump run for about 2 seconds, hit the key and varoom, back to life again. I mowed some grass for about an hour, came back, 2 second pump run and he fired right back up. Since the pump only runs in the acc/run position it turns off when I shut off the key.
After it starts and runs a few seconds I turn off the pump by the switch I installed and yes it still runs with the pump off.
Time will tell now. So far I am delighted with the results."

[Bob]

Uodate:

About an hour ago I went out to start him since yesterday. Primed the pump for 2 seconds, hit the key and started like a chevy. )
Just got back from a half hour drive (pump switch off) and now I am going to let him sit long enough for the fuel to evaporate or whatever it does.
It's now 10 minutes later as if I was filling up with gas. Turned on the electric pump, put the ignition switch in acc/run, waited 2 seconds and varoom. Started right up. Now that is amazing.
Tomorrow after work I will try again. If all goes well it is the pump that made all the difference.
It's embarrassing when getting gas and you go to start your car and it cranks forever until the fuel gets there and you still stand a chance of flooding it since you kicked the accelerator 10 times trying to get it started.

[Ghoste]

Started like a Chevy?  Are you saying you had to pump the shit out of it while cranking and then it sputtered and banged while slowly coming to life?

[Bob]

Started like a Chevy?  Are you saying you had to pump the shit out of it while cranking and then it sputtered and banged while slowly coming to life?

No not really, every chevy I've owned started on the second rotation.

[myk]

Having two fuel pumps seems redundant and unnecessary to me.  If you're going to have an electric pump in there, why not just make it do all of the work? 

Because most of the full time pumps are loud and obnoxious and many require a regulator and/or extra plumbing. My mechanical pump works perfectly once the car is started - it's just that this modern fuel evaporates so fast that all 3 fuel bowls are empty every time I have to start the car and it takes a lot of cranking to get them full enough to get the car running. It's bad for the starter and my patience.

If I'm going to go through the hassle of full-time electric pump then I figure I'll also switch to EFI and then these issues all go away. Already did it to another car but I won't on my rarer ones just because I like originality.

Troy

I run a full time electric pump and there was no additional plumbing work required other than hooking up the inlet and outlet, grounding the unit and providing power.  I did not require a regulator as I made sure the pump was limited to 6lbs. of pressure, so there is no flooding of the 'carb at any time.  Granted, the e-pump is loud, but the 440 is much louder.  As a result, I don't have to worry about cold-starting problems, hot-start problems, or anything of that nature.  Having a full time e-pump works for me, for others maybe not so...