Transmission pan bolt not grabbing

[Dino]

I removed the old dented pan and the filter today.  Installed the new filter and new pan with drain bolt, using mopar gasket 02464324ac.

One of the bolts however does not fully grip.  It feels like it grabs thread in there but it doesn't get tight.  I assume this was a problem before I started this and the pan did not leak.  I was actually surprised it didn't because those bolts were all pretty loose.

So now what?  Before I need to go all nuts on this thing, any super thread sealants out there that can help me out?  I don't plan on taking this pan off for a while.

 

[A383Wing]

betting stripped threads....heli-coil time

[JB400]

You could tap to a larger bolt size.

[firefighter3931]

Dirk,

Try chasing the threads with a tap and use some blue loc-tite on the bolts. You might be able to get it snug enough to prevent leaks and the thread locker will keep the bolts from backing out. 


Ron

[Dino]

I'll remove the pan again today and see what's going on.  I'll do the heli coil thing if I have to, I have taps so I'd just need the inserts.

[Dino]

Well this is embarrassing...

I forgot which of the 14 bolts didn't get real tight so I went over all of them and now they're all tight...I don't get it.

I went over all of them once more, gently snugging them up and every one of them is nice and snug.  Guess I have one of those self repairing transmissions!   

[Windsor]

Which ever bolt hole it was is probably partially stripped. The bolt is just long enough to catch. If you get a leak there or notice a missing bolt one day, get one that is slightly longer and see if it catches. May save you from having to sideline your car to rethread the hole. I had to do this on my trans, got a bolt that is 1/4" longer and it worked for me.

[John_Kunkel]

The longer bolt will work on most holes in the 727 but be careful with the front row, the threaded holes bottom out. The side and rear bolt holes go all the way through the flange and, if the threads are completely stripped out, you can usually use a much longer bolt and put a nut on top.

Avoid the temptation to tap it 3/8", a Heli-coil is the proper repair.

[71 SE3834V]

I'll remove the pan again today and see what's going on.  I'll do the heli coil thing if I have to, I have taps so I'd just need the inserts.

Just for future info Dino, if you have to put in a Heli-coil you'll have to use the special taps that come in the kit. I have 1/4", 5/16" & 3/8" kits w/inserts if needed.

[ws23rt]

The longer bolt will work on most holes in the 727 but be careful with the front row, the threaded holes bottom out. The side and rear bolt holes go all the way through the flange and, if the threads are completely stripped out, you can usually use a much longer bolt and put a nut on top.

Avoid the temptation to tap it 3/8", a Heli-coil is the proper repair.

I agree   You have one opportunity  to fix it and to save the case.  Their is not much room to do it again.

I like threaded inserts over Heli-coil but either way doing it with care is the key.

[Dino]

I rechecked all the bolts again and I don't know what happened but all are tight.   

IF a bolt starts to leak then I know which one it is.  In that case I will fix it right with a heli-coil.

Now, when I drained the trans I did not mess with the converter so only a few quarts came out.  It's hard to say how much exactly as some of it missed the catch pan... 
The good news is that it was nice and clean.   

When refilling I know I need to add about 3 quarts, then run it through all gears to neutral and add roughly one more quart.  The car won't be able to start for a while though so right now I just want to know if the pan leaks or not.  So how much should I add to bring the fluid level above the pan gasket?

[John_Kunkel]

Forget about numbers and use the dipstick to check the proper level. Right on the FULL mark or a little below is ideal.