sub frame connectors

[Ron. T]

Thinking of adding sub frame connectors on my 69 Charger, will they decrease its value?

[Baldwinvette77]

Is it an R/T or Base model? i cant see it hurting the value of a 318/383 car, But it might on a 440 car 

[Ghoste]

Not unless its some ultra rare thing no.  Maybe to the extreme purist they would hurt it a slightly but there would be an equal amount who see them as an asset and a likewise slight increase in value.

[JB400]

The next owner could always remove them.

[Ghoste]

Oh and Ron, welcome to the group.  You are now officially requested to share photos of your Cahrger with us. 

[Mike DC]

 
Get the US Car Tool type.  They look factory and don't call for hacking the floor. 


If you care about stiffening for all around street driving then you'll also want factory style torque boxing.  And an aftermarket front lower radiator brace.

 

[The70RT]

I'm with Ghost......or oh shit, I ruined my car 

[Ron. T]

Its a R/T SE super track pack car.

[myk]

What is the goal for you and your car?  If you're trying to tighten up your car's chassis then subframe connectors are the way to go.  If you're looking to keep things original and are more worried about potential value then don't touch a thing on the car.  You really can't have it both ways unless it's a modification that you are able and willing to remove at some point...

[RTDaddy]

Its a R/T SE super track pack car.

THAT ONE I believe I'd leave alone.  Course normally I say "it's YOUR car'"

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH."

[Ghoste]

Yeah, that one kinda brings out the purist in me too. 

[Daytona R/T SE]

Get the US Car Tool type. 

 

And be prepared to do lots of grinding to make them fit your floor pan.

[Ghoste]

I thought they were supposed to be perfect fit?

[myk]

Get the US Car Tool type. 

 

And be prepared to do lots of grinding to make them fit your floor pan.

yeah I prefer the MP or the Hotchkis ones myself; the MP ones made a noticeable difference on mine...

[Ghoste]

Did you end up welding them in Myk or just bolting them?

[Daytona R/T SE]

I thought they were supposed to be perfect fit?

Mine weren't even close.  

I'd have been better off starting with a piece of rectangular tubing and cutting THAT to fit.  

[Tilar]

I thought they were supposed to be perfect fit?

Mine weren't even close.  

I'd have been better off starting with a piece of rectangular tubing and cutting THAT to fit.  

That happens when you try to put them in backwards.  

j/k I haven't tried to put mine in yet so I really cant say. 

[myk]

Did you end up welding them in Myk or just bolting them?

Initially I bolted them in, then I accepted that welding was the only realistic alternative and had them welded.  Trust me-it made me wince when I saw the installer's torch ignite...

[Ghoste]

Did you get a chance to drive it with them bolted in first?

[Mike DC]

Initially I bolted them in, then I accepted that welding was the only realistic alternative and had them welded.  Trust me-it made me wince when I saw the installer's torch ignite...

It's scary but it really has to be a weld-in job.  



XV Motorsports discovered that a front radiator support brace was worth doing.  

At first that seems odd, considering that there is a huge K-frame about 3 inches behind it doing exactly the same job  . . .  but the K-frame isn't welded in.  

[myk]

Did you get a chance to drive it with them bolted in first?

It squeaked and groaned a lot before the welding.  Maybe I didn't have it tight enough or maybe it wasn't even the SFC's, I don't really know.  I have solace in believing that the car is tighter for it...

[fy469rtse]

Nah Myk , that's exactely what sub frame connectors do, tighten up the frame so it's not flexing and sqweeking ,
Can't have a car without them , I'm ure they were tight when new but years of wear and tear fatigue the uni body's to theses cars 

[Ron. T]

Thanks guys your comments have been ininteresting.

[tan top]

 don't know if this is any help , to make you decide !!  

I fitted ART 2 by 2 box  frame connectors & torque boxes front & rear to mine , also fabricated hemi only rear leaf spring shackle hanger reinforcement plates , plus also when it was a stripped empty body shell when I was doing the  nut & bolt resto ,  with a mig  , I ran  a  inch  to inch & a half of weld  every 2 inches or so , to every factory spot welded joint & where the frame meets the floor / trunk pan , although when I done all that , I had different plans for the car well over 10 -12 years ago ) , but as with every thing with me , lack of  , disposable dough to build the motor I wanted , put a end to that plan of attack  

now I done all this to mine , & have never seen or heard of another R/T SE or any 69  with the same color combination as mine , in over 25 years of looking    am I stupid for doing it     who cares
 could always remove if I ever felt the need , have no interest in if I hurt the value of my charger ,  never going to sell it !! & think frame connectors & torque boxes etc  is a worth while modification  if you going to really use  the power !! pottering round a show field with a OEM factory original     , there is no need   !
 if your charger was a original low milage  rust free original paint unrestored original engine , would say your crazy don't do it !  

would love to see pictures of your charger sometime !!  whats the color combo ??

[BrianShaughnessy]

Just put them on.   Your future driving experience will thank you.